Continual loop furling gear

clyst

clyst

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Presumably on this type of furling the rope only has contact of the drum about 180 degrees ish . If that's the case it doesn't seem a lot of contact to prevent the sail from completely unfurling in a blow ........ But maybe i have it completely wrong .
 
clyst said:
Presumably on this type of furling the rope only has contact of the drum about 180 degrees ish . If that's the case it doesn't seem a lot of contact to prevent the sail from completely unfurling in a blow ........ But maybe i have it completely wrong .
Click to expand...

I've only seen it used on downwind sails - code zeros and the like - which you don't reef. So it's a pure furler, all the way out or all the way in.

Have you seen it used for roller reefing? If so I assume it must be a very well-engineered drum and special rope.

Pete
 
My previous boat had the Hood continuous line reefing system. When acquired, the line diameter was greater than specified, and it did slip. The American spec. was for 7/16". Changing from 12mm to 10mm cured that and it was then OK. The fairly large drum diameter made for easy operation. I was fairly careful to keep tension on both runs of the line when the genny was reefed.
On the whole however, I think I prefer my present single line system.
Add, The Sailspar system had rollers to give>180 deg. contact on a smaller drum IIRC.
Add+ Just looked at Sailspar site, seems they might have enlarged the drum since I last used one.
 
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earlybird said:
My previous boat had the Hood continuous line reefing system. When acquired, the line diameter was greater than specified, and it did slip. The American spec. was for 7/16". Changing from 12mm to 10mm cured that and it was then OK. The fairly large drum diameter made for easy operation. I was fairly careful to keep tension on both runs of the line when the genny was reefed.
On the whole however, I think I prefer my present single line system.
Add, The Sailspar system had rollers to give>180 deg. contact on a smaller drum IIRC.
Add+ Just looked at Sailspar site, seems they might have enlarged the drum since I last used one.
Click to expand...

My previous yacht had the Hood system. Gave no trouble and was easy to operate as long as you kept tension on both lines.
 
The Access sailing dinghy uses this type of loop for both main & jib. The furling line is twisted to form a loop then folded back so that the crossover is on the side of the drum furthest from the two lengths leading back into the boat, that way the rope loop surrounds the whole drum slightly more than once. It works but with a few cautions; never "push" the line towards the drum as this leads to a lose of tension and the rope slips off. Secondly the splice where the two ends of the line join can/will get jammed where it passes through the deck so needs to be positioned in such away that it won't be pulled up against the hole when either furling or unfurling and repairs done as soon as it starts to fray.
 
Hi

We have a Sailspar continuous reefing system http://www.sailspar.co.uk/headsailreefing/brochure.html

Seems to work ok, uses an 8mm rope which is reasonably easy to manage. I have it rigged through a snatch block and some bungee to keep some tension on the lines. The line is jammed in a cam cleat when reefed. Not seen ANY tendency for the line to slip on the drum, but I may well buy a better cam cleat some time :p

You do need to get the wind out of the sail when it comes to reef, but then I found that was the case with the previous boats Plastimo gear.


Regards

Ian
 
The Sailspar system is single line and as been mentioned has rollers at the front to keep the rope close to the drum, inside the drum are two castings that have teeth that grip the rope, as long as the correct size and type of rope is used it works well. Single groove unlike most others. When I left (many years ago!) they were talking of making it less agricultual, not sure if this has happened. I would put one on my yacht it I had a yacht!
 
Thanks guys ,having it around at 300degrees is a lot better that I thought but it doesn't seem as positive "locking" like a single line system .In a blow short of the furling line breaking there is no chance of an accidental unfurling.
 
My boat has the Hood 705 LD (line drive) system. It has the advantage of a thicker line to pull on when furling and no rope to make up afterwards compared to normal systems. To prevent it slipping my line runs through a clam cleat which acts as a 'non return'.
 
Slinky Spring said:
My boat has the Hood 705 LD (line drive) system. It has the advantage of a thicker line to pull on when furling and no rope to make up afterwards compared to normal systems. To prevent it slipping my line runs through a clam cleat which acts as a 'non return'.
Click to expand...

Unless it slips on the drum ?
 
My son had a loop furler on his Contessa 32 and it worked very well. Both sides of the line went through jammers to lock it off and you had to pay out the loop when unfurling rather than just letting the genoa whizz out. I like the idea and the fatter rope to handle.
 
I replaced a rotostay with the sailspar continuous line reefing on a 36' Jeanneau. Never had any slipping issues and it had a couple of advantages in that you can unfurl the sail in light airs, and no risk of running out of furling line on the drum when reefing in blow, also the drum is compact so easier to pass anchors past.
 
I have in-mast furling for the main, and the line only has180° contact. Works perfectly, allowing sail to be used full out or reefed to any extent. All it needs, if reefing, is to keep tension on both parts of the line. Can't see why it should be any different for a foresail.
 
We have a Sailspar single line furling system whihc was fitted when we bought the boat ten years ago. It took us a little while to get used to it . . . I remember one particularly entertaining incident coming out of Kirkwall in a F7 when the whole sail unfurled in a fairly confined channel.

The secret is to cleat off both sides of the continuous loop, as it can slip in either direction. (See the post above re. keeping tension on both parts of the line). Once you learn this and have the line set up sensibly (we use a bungee on the rear pulley to maintain a little tension) it works very well with no danger of furling line tangles or jams.

In ten years the only maintenance we have done is to wash out the bearings with fresh water every now and then. It was very stiff towards the end of last season, but I pressure washed it yesterday and it's brand new again. The other headache is the splice in he continuous loop, which I fear is beyond me. We will need to renew the line at some point.


- W
 
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