Contessa 26 Bow damage fix suggestions??

lw395 said:
This 'only a mechanical bond' is oft-repeated folklore.
If the surface is abraded within a few hours of putting new resin on, there will be plenty of cross bonding between the new resin and bonds opened on the new surface of the old substrate.
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PM on its way
 
Sea badger said:
Hello. Wondering if anyone has experience of working on a Contessa 26 bow? I have recently acquired a Contessa 26, but she has suffered some damage to the bow in the past that I would like to put right. The forestay doesn't terminate at the area in question, but there is a small bow roller.
Thanks
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By the looks of it the bow roller fitting that you have and is now removed is not original. I think you will find that the original bowroller would have fitted in that slot between the toerail and filled the gaps.

See the pic here of an original bow roller http://www.weir-quay.com/sites/weir-quay.com/files/images/brokerage/IMG_4630.jpg

I am sure you can buy a replacement from JR Yachts.

As for Seajet's comment about pricing I would not mind betting that he has little or no experience of working with them. I have, and continue to support them as a supplier of top quality parts for Contessa yachts, they are a thoroughly nice bunch who I am sure will be happy to advise you.
 
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Georgio said:
By the looks of it the bow roller fitting that you have and is now removed is not original. I think you will find that the original bowroller would have fitted in that slot between the toerail and filled the gaps.

See the pic here of an original bow roller http://www.weir-quay.com/sites/weir-quay.com/files/images/brokerage/IMG_4630.jpg

I am sure you can buy a replacement from JR Yachts.

As for Seajet's comment about pricing I would not mind betting that he has little or no experience of working with them. I have, and continue to support them as a supplier of top quality parts for Contessa yachts, they are a thoroughly nice bunch who I am sure will be happy to advise you.
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thanks for reply
 
lw395 said:
The wood inside appears to be soggy.
Best regard it as non-structural.
It wants as much of the decaying stuff as possible removing, then dry the rest as best you can.
It then wants sealing and then the structural bit starts. You can seal it with many things, epoxy, polyester with a bit of extra catalyst, whatever.
The sealing layer stops the wood interacting with the main act of the resin, or water from the wood getting into the resin before it sets.

For the structural bit, you want resin with glass in it.

Then repairing the wood trim on top is a separate exercise?
Epoxy and microfibers to glue wood to wood, or even wood to GRP, although screwing it to GRP on a bed of polyurethane sealant might be preferred.
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thanks, I think finding replacement lengths of wood (assume they are teak) is going to be tricky. I could take they off completely and have some new ones made and bend to suit. Alternatively I was going to try and bond they back together somehow. Or if I cap the repair with stainless plate I could cut the wood back which will eliminate the split ends. Still deliberating.
 
Georgio said:
By the looks of it the bow roller fitting that you have and is now removed is not original. I think you will find that the original bowroller would have fitted in that slot between the toerail and filled the gaps.

See the pic here of an original bow roller http://www.weir-quay.com/sites/weir-quay.com/files/images/brokerage/IMG_4630.jpg

I am sure you can buy a replacement from JR Yachts.

As for Seajet's comment about pricing I would not mind betting that he has little or no experience of working with them. I have, and continue to support them as a supplier of top quality parts for Contessa yachts, they are a thoroughly nice bunch who I am sure will be happy to advise you.[/QUOTE

Based on the observations of a very experienced chum who had a good look into the modern JR operation, thinking of buying a Co26, and my own knowledge of Lymington outfits ...:rolleyes:
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Seajet said:
Based on the observations of a very experienced chum who had a good look into the modern JR operation, thinking of buying a Co26, and my own knowledge of Lymington outfits ...:rolleyes:
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Will they do a new Co26? The new-build Co32's are ludicrously expensive, but that's what you have to put up with for one-offs of just about anything. Everything I have read suggests that the Rogers are extremely helpful with advice to Contessa owners, and that parts availability is good, although maybe pricey for one-off reproductions. Co26 forehatches spring to mind as an example, for some reason.
 
I never suggested that JR stuff isn't good, just that it will be rather pricey !

I have my doubts that a bow roller job stuck on top would fulfil the OP's needs, or maybe I misunderstood the suggested fix ?
 
Sea badger said:
thanks, I think finding replacement lengths of wood (assume they are teak) is going to be tricky. I could take they off completely and have some new ones made and bend to suit. Alternatively I was going to try and bond they back together somehow. Or if I cap the repair with stainless plate I could cut the wood back which will eliminate the split ends. Still deliberating.
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splicing in a short bit of teak should not be that hard.
Teak is available, a short bit for such a repair should not cost too much, either from a local boat builder or from Robbins in Bristol.
If you measure it up and then ask on here, you might find someone with an offcut. It does not even need to be 'new' wood.
You can always hide the join under a fairlead.
Good Luck.
 
lw395 said:
splicing in a short bit of teak should not be that hard.
Teak is available, a short bit for such a repair should not cost too much, either from a local boat builder or from Robbins in Bristol.
If you measure it up and then ask on here, you might find someone with an offcut. It does not even need to be 'new' wood.
You can always hide the join under a fairlead.
Good Luck.
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Thanks for reply. The more I look at it, the more straight forward it seems. All replies here are very helpful, thanks.
 
I have a CO26. Your bow roller certainly does not look like an original. I have not removed my original type, as pictured in an earlier post, so am not sure what lies below it, but I can tell you they are bolted into captive nuts fitted during build. If you can't see evidence of these under the wood, it would seem a repair or mod has taken place in the past.

As a new owner, you will find it worth joining the 26 class association. Lots of members well used to old boat issues of course. JR are very helpful. Yes their work can be expensive, but nobody knows the boats better!

They no longer have moulds for the 26. But regularly do restorations.
 
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