Connecting Washdown pump to Lavac inlet?

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hisw

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www.araminta.org.uk
Hi, I am after the forums collective wisdom.

I am thinking of installing a washdown pump in the anchor well (east coast mud!)

I am not keen on putting in another skin fitting so....

What do you think to the idea of installing a T just before the bowl ie after the anti siphon loop on the inlet to the loo.

Will it affect the loos function?

I look forward to your responses.
 
You will be relying on the Lavac pump valves and the lid and seat seals.

You will also be drawing air in via the air bleed on the inlet pipe to the Lavac. The latter will have some effect on your pump performance
 
And you may have trouble getting the pump to prime

and unless you have valve on the washdown pump you will/may draw air in through it when you try to flush the loo!
 
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Can you put a diverter valve after the skin fitting? You probably won't want to use the loo at the same time as washing the deck :) I use diverter valves on my engine driven pump albeit with a separate inlet fitting; with the options to select input from the skin fitting ('raw water in') or 'bilge in'. The outlet is selected to 'bilge out' which goes out through the side or 'hose out' which goes out through the foredeck hose. The trick is to remember not to select bilge in/hose out, it makes an awful mess.....
 
Can you put a diverter valve after the skin fitting? You probably won't want to use the loo at the same time as washing the deck
Click to expand...

You wait until you get older :D
 
hisw said:
Hi, I am after the forums collective wisdom.

I am thinking of installing a washdown pump in the anchor well (east coast mud!)

I am not keen on putting in another skin fitting so....

What do you think to the idea of installing a T just before the bowl ie after the anti siphon loop on the inlet to the loo.

Will it affect the loos function?

I look forward to your responses.
Click to expand...

I did exactly this (and for the same reason as you) when I fitted a washdown system. I fitted a Y diverter valve, which outlets to either toilet or washdown pump -not both - and a simple, cleanable water filter between the valve and the pump. The valve, filter and pump switch are all in the toilet compartment for 'convenience'.

Been using it for 4 or 5 years now, mainly to wash weed and East Coast mud off the chain as it comes up, and the anchor before it finally self-stows. It's also great for squirting misbehaving grandkids :)

Works well.
 
What about a "Y" piece and a non-return valve in each of the output legs?
That would negate the need to manually change between loo and wash functions. (Installed in the loop above the waterline of course.)
I've been thinking about this for a long time as we get some mucky stuff up here as well - also teak likes a saltwater wash, so no more buckets.
 
Billjratt said:
What about a "Y" piece and a non-return valve in each of the output legs?
That would negate the need to manually change between loo and wash functions. (Installed in the loop above the waterline of course.)
I've been thinking about this for a long time as we get some mucky stuff up here as well - also teak likes a saltwater wash, so no more buckets.
Click to expand...

I did think of doing this, but was concerned that:

a) The ParMax 4 washdown pump's demand might 'overpower' the toilet's non-return valve, or
b) A non-return valve would restrict the flow to the washdown pump (already reduced by the in-line filter)

I fitted one in the washdown piping as a test, and it did restrict the flow, so I removed it.

Hope this helps.
 
Yes, I've had flow problems with non-return valves before and now fit oversized - they usually have staggered fittings anyway.
I was just wondering if anyone could fault the theory behind using N-Rs rather than a 3-way.
 
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