Colligo bridle plate

It looks like an expensive solution in search of a problem. I can see two downsides to it apart from the expense. If you mount it below the buoy as recommended it will only last a couple of years as it is in the oxygen rich water near the surface. The swivel will also seize up and not swivel smoothly.
When I layed my own mooring I used a spar buoy with the riser chain run through the buoy and the swivel at the top. No joins hidden under the buoy and all the critical parts in full view for easy inspection. Put a chunk of zinc on the riser and you should be good for several years. I also use a chain with a back up rope as I don't trust a rope not to chafe in bad weather.
 
Looks interesting however I imagine it could be easily reproduced with a decent lump of steel plate, shackles and a swivel. As said if you can keep the swivewl out of the water so much the better. Promotion says it virtually eliminates line to line interference. The spacing must help but I don't think it will eliminate 2 ropes twisting if the swivel becomes sticky. The promotion seems to show it attached to a jetty. Can't figure that out. ol'will
 
Why do you want a bridle? They are useful for catamarans, for obvious reasons - but why for a monohull. Unless your bridle is wide or short (or both) it will act very much like a single line mooring - so why bother?

Do you have a swivel down at the seabed?

We have a cat, with a bridle for the mooring and some of the other cats only have a single line mooring and 95% of the 500 or so yachts (monos) in our mooring field have single line moorings. Our chain is all down on the seabed and then connected to rope via swivel, the rope is the riser and our bridle is simply spliced in the eye on the riser. Our ropes last 'for ever' the wear is from abrasion of the sweeper chain (and swivel) on the seabed.

Jonathan
 
Whatever swivel you buy, make sure its "forged" the cheaper ones have nuts welded onto the end of the pin.
Better ones have the pin inserted into the hole heated in a forge then hammered so the pin cant escape.

Also cant see any point in a bridal, a simple single strop that is massively oversized helps you sleep at night.

Plank
 
Just a thought, the Bav 30 has relatively light deck gear (in line with what they are built for no issue at all) would there be any merit in having a bridle between both side cleats to share any load ?
 
Certainly have 2 lines to the boat. One for the main line & one slack as a "reserve". Both to separate shackles on the buoy
I install buoys for our moorings with a swivelled top ring as part of the galvanised centre & do not have problems.
You can get the buoys& centre from EYE at Levington - Best get a solid one
One point to note in that picture is the large fitting going to a thin chain just at the edge of the picture. Seems pointless if one is fitting it to a necklace.
 
SailingDog said:
Just a thought, the Bav 30 has relatively light deck gear (in line with what they are built for no issue at all) would there be any merit in having a bridle between both side cleats to share any load ?
Click to expand...

Yeah, I was thinking that. Bridle between cleats and two rope strops connected to middle of that. Primarily so I can use bow roller rather than fairleads...

Just came across the colligo plate when pricing up swivels and shackles. Not sure I need swivels though with two strops. Might just shackle them to separate links on the riser chain...
 
catlotion said:
Yeah, I was thinking that. Bridle between cleats and two rope strops connected to middle of that. Primarily so I can use bow roller rather than fairleads...

Just came across the colligo plate when pricing up swivels and shackles. Not sure I need swivels though with two strops. Might just shackle them to separate links on the riser chain...
Click to expand...
I think that a swivel somewhere in the system is essential if tidal
Are you mooring on a lake ( Winermere) or the sea?
 
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Just on lake Windermere. Gets pretty stormy in winter though.

We have to fix to the riser chain under the buoy. If I have a two strop version of the attached will the swivels still have the desired effect? Can't really visualise what will happen...
 

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"Not sure I need swivels though with two strops. Might just shackle them to separate links on the riser chain"

If your subject to either wind or tide, you will need a swivel.
Please look and see what the majority do in your area, there's usually a good reason to do what they do.
 
That rig will be a disaster. Both painters will need pick up buoys as they will sink below the surface, which will be a nuisance.
The boat will gradually swing & the 2 painters will twist together until they bind up to the bow, They will do this because the chain will tend not to twist at first. However it will eventually when the painters can no longer twist.. When you drop the mooring the painters will stay twisted because the pickups will tangle into them. The chain will un twist thus winding the painters around itself below the buoy, The whole lot will be a tangle when you come back to pick it up.
I do not know if weed is a problem on Windermere but if it is then throw a bit in & you will have fun

Just my opinion. Others will disagree, but think about it for a while.
 
Sorry I think my previous posts were unclear. When I asked about whether to use swivels I meant from strops (two) to riser chain (fixed under the buoy). I just can't see how they'd swivel if there's two strops connected (shackled to separate chain links).

The ground tackle has a swivel on the bottom of riser chain and under the buoy I believe.

Apologies for dim questions. Normally I'd just go up, take measurements, check out what others are doing etc but I've got to move my boat as soon as I'm legally able to return so want to get a few things ordered...
 
If you have a swivel below the painters in the riser chain then they should not twist. But post #8 seemed to suggest no swivel, so you can ignore the comment about twisting in my post
It still begs the question why one would not have a buoy with a central post & the swivel on the top & thus painters that are easier to pick up
 
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There is too much ironmongery, for me, in that system, and a good chance of damage to the bow. You can achieve the same sort of thing with a Jaw Jaw swivel, eg:

Jaw & Jaw Swivel | Suncor Stainless.

I have used these with chains ropes and 1 chain + 1 rope strop. This can work quite well, as you leave the mooring the chain sinks holding the floating line near the buoy and (if you judge the lengths to a nicety) it help preventing two ropes getting tangled with each other and/or the riser.
There can be room to run a length of fire hose over the top jaw as a protection but it needs a lashing; handily, you can make this up on the bench and then only have to fit one Jaw on the mooring.

Below water riser swivels often gum up, so I think the extra one is necessary. Every season I run lanolin in with a hot air gun to keep it sweet.

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