cold weather so an eber d2 problem of course

atlowers

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Ebay 2004 d2. ran fine first few times. not used for couple of weeks. now get classic fan runs for 20 seconds or so and shuts down. I have a rheostat controller and the loom is an old oone and so cannot fit a diag controller as plug is incompatible. by jumping I can access vent mode no probs. I have voltage drop at heater end but still reads 12.6 volts when glow pin comes in so think low voltage not the problem. when fan shuts down I get smoke from exhaust so appears chamber is heating and glow pin therefore also assumed ok.
I have stripped and checked resistances for glow pin and combined overheat sensors. All as per manual and the unit is in pristine condition. Fuelpump is self priming but start up does not get to starting that but 12v across and it works fine. I am at a total loss and now suspecting ecu but believe it very rare for these to have probs.
Any body any ideas or had similar symptoms and does anybody know a good eberspacher man near gosport.
Thanks as ever.
 

Martin_J

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If the glow pin and overheat sensor resistance measurements were wrong then the controller would not have even powered up the glow plug nor the pump..

The fact you get smoke seems to say it's trying... but possibly not fully combusting therefore the flame out sensor does the usual clean shutdown.

When was the last time you changed the glow screen?

D2 Glow screen

A dirty screen doesn't help.
 

vyv_cox

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I have recently fired up my D3L for the first time in five years. Voltage at the panel was 12.7V. It was heard to start turning, drew 16 amps and blew a little through the vents, then shut down after about 20 seconds. This was repeated about six times, no change. I then switched on the battery charger, upon which it ran perfectly. It has done the same thing a couple of times since. I assume some voltage drop due to poor connections between the panel and the Eberspacher.
 

Martin_J

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Unfortunately, since the +ve wire is permanently connected to the glow pin, you will need a 12mm 'slotted' socket to get the glow pin out.. Don't whatever you do snap the wire off the top of the pin... They're not cheap to replace...
D2 Glow pin £80

The guaze tends to get destroyed when you pull it out.. and it's so far into the hole that you can't really examine it until you take it out.

By the way - There is a filter in the lower end of the fuel pump as well.. but it's rather a coarse filter. I've never found mine blocked.

Part 23 on the diagram below...
Fuel filter is part #23
 

Martin_J

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The 12mm slotted socket comes free when you buy a glow pin. It's not included when you buy the gauze.

If you are in Gosport/Portsmouth and want to borrow the slotted socket then let me know...
 

atlowers

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Martin, just ordered from your link and it says the removal tool is inc, but will get in touch if it does not arrive so thank you for your kind offer.

VV, my first thought was voltage but I have tried with engines running and with shore power and 20 amp charger on. monitored the voltage and it stands up fine at heater end.
 

Martin_J

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The tool that comes with the gauze is only the insertion tool.. It's a 'pusher' effectively that just pushes the new guaze into the hole by the correct amount.

Note also - If you ever do decide to split the unit apart to either clean the chamber or check out clean the chamber is, you will need to replace the green combustion chamber gasket. They are very brittle gaskets, and after being heated will just fall to pieces in your hands as the unit is split apart.
 

Martin_J

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Last edited:

VicMallows

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I assume some voltage drop due to poor connections between the panel and the Eberspacher.

This is the absolutely classic Eberspacher problem. Most common cause is that the inline fuse holder has developed excess resistance. Equally the glow-plug relay can develop excess resistance.

I have fitted an external heavy-duty relay to supply a dedicated (fused) feed from the battery directly to the glow-plug. The relay is driven from the original glow-plug feed.

No more starting problems!
 

Martin_J

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I would have suggested voltage drop first but going by the OP comments they have twice mentioned that voltage has been checked at the glow plug (heater end) during startup.
 

VicMallows

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I would have suggested voltage drop first but going by the OP comments they have twice mentioned that voltage has been checked at the glow plug (heater end) during startup.

Difficult to know which post you are commenting on, but *I* was replying specifically to Vyv about HIS problem. (Agree I should have included a bit more in the quote to make it clear :eek:).
 
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