Coelan on laid teak deck

[hogne]

I have read previous threads on this topic, and would greatly appreciate more information regarding Coelan.

My boat, a 33 ft Colin Archer-copy, was built in 1983. The laid teak deck was re-caulked some 15 years ago (using Saba Sealer), and I am now experiencing serious leaks. The Saba Sealer still feels semi-soft, but contains obvious cracks which my retailer tells me will be sealed with Coelan. I am planning to sand back to bare wood, but my question is:
Is it necessary to re-caulk the entire deck, or only the parts with cracks? (Some people recommend Simpson) Maybe Coelan will fill and seal the cracks altogether?

In order to make sure that Coelan will stick to the Saba Sealer, my retailer recommends a thin coat of epoxy on top of the seams, anyone with experience on this subject?

My boat has been stored under shelter during the summer (and continues to be under a roof), but I´m afraid I will not be ready to apply Coelan until winter. This means a considerably higher degree of humidity in the air and lower temperatures: How will this affect the Coelan? Should I wait until next summer?

I remember reading that Mirelle used a moisture-meter, is this necessary? If yes, how is this best done?

 

[howardclark]

In my experience Coelan sticks well to wood and (abraded) mastic. Can't see epoxy would help at all. The deck and seams should be entire, if there are substantial gaps then you may get problems after a while, though you could attend to these when they arise.
I've done OK with Coelan but have known people to be dissappointed when they have tried to use it on a deck already struggling. Given the cost of the Coelan, would suggest you get the deck into decent nick and then coat it.

 

[Mirelle]

I agree with that. I'd get the deck into shape first.

Since unlike the mastic and the Coelan, epoxy is inflexible, it might be counterproductive to use it.

Moisture meter might be a good plan if you are in marginal conditions - you can probably borrow one from surveyor or boatyard. Not essential in warm dry weather.

11 years and counting and no leaks yet...

 

[SteamShipW]

I could have told exactly the same story some years ago. We tried a variety of solutions and all failed. Then we scraped out the old decks seams and went back to good old fashioned Jeffreys #1 Marine Glue which we poured in like oil at 200 degrees centigrade. All leaks instantly gone. Well, after a lot of hard work. Here's what the finished job looked like: http://stuartwyatt.com/wanderer/images/sidedecks1.jpg

 

[hogne]

These pictures show the condition of the deck and seams; do you think the Coelan will seal the gaps, or do I have to repair the seams before applying Coelan? For repairs I have been recommended to use Simpson or Tech-7.


http://hogne.myphotoalbum.com/view_album.php?set_albumName=album01

 

[visaroine]

After looking at your pictures, I would definately redo the seams. What ever sealant you decide to use (simson, sika DC etc.), I would advise on using a primer on the wood before applying the sealer.

As teak is a "greassy" wood, I would also remind you to use the primer, that Coelan also advises to use, before applying Coelan. Actually, I would use some kind of degreaser even before that.

We used Coelan in quite harsh finnish spring conditions (it was moist and cold), and it has stuck on to the wood excellently. But I wouldn´t advise trying that again.

And the best thing about Coelan; its not even slippery!!!

 

[hogne]

I´m happy to hear that you all seem satisfied with Coelan. Roine: Why is it that you don´t recommend applying Coelan during "harsh finnish spring conditions"? (Sounds like the same weather we have here in Bergen)