mainshiptom
Well-Known Member
Thinking about maybe doing a bit of charter and buying red diesel?
What is the best way to go about coding my boat?
Tom
What is the best way to go about coding my boat?
Tom
Code my boat
- Thread starter mainshiptom
- Start date
jfm
Well-Known Member
Take control of the thing yourself and don't let someone tell you you must attach this and that bit of equipment and make your boat look like a chandler's sale shelf.
Actually 99% of the coding mods are good and worthwhile, but the aesthetics (especially on a sleek machine like yours) can be ruined if not done carefully. Lots of gizmos attached to railings with clamp screws looks a right mess. On my boat all the coding gear is hidden and you'd need to be very expert even to know it's coded. The only giveaway is small stickers on the portholes "Keep Closed at Sea" and even they are in small font on transparent labels! Things like the big radar reflector can be put inside a locker, not screwed to radar arch, and so on
The process is (a) find surveyor (b) examine boat with him/her to agree a list of things to install and things to buy (c) do all that (d) surveyor examines boat again, including a 30min lift out, ticks off the list, job done, certif arrives a week later. Then an annual check like an MOT. Or alternatively, just give the whole job to a firm that will do the mods and issue the certificate, onestopshop, but personally I wouldn't do that cos there is risk they'd spoil the boat imho. The shopping list (depending on what you have already) is likely £4k, very approx. £1k surveyor fees. £500 lift out fee.
There are lots of good surveyors and I assume there must be lots of bad ones becuase you see some awful coded boats. Graham Booth does mine and is excellent. He is based in Ipswich/Kent/S of France
The code is downloadable lots of places incl mcga.gov.uk. There is the old code (yellow book) plus the new mgn280 code. You can use either. the new mgn280 is't compulsory by law, it is merely optional. Actually there isn't much difference, and I chose the old code but you might prefer the new
Actually 99% of the coding mods are good and worthwhile, but the aesthetics (especially on a sleek machine like yours) can be ruined if not done carefully. Lots of gizmos attached to railings with clamp screws looks a right mess. On my boat all the coding gear is hidden and you'd need to be very expert even to know it's coded. The only giveaway is small stickers on the portholes "Keep Closed at Sea" and even they are in small font on transparent labels! Things like the big radar reflector can be put inside a locker, not screwed to radar arch, and so on
The process is (a) find surveyor (b) examine boat with him/her to agree a list of things to install and things to buy (c) do all that (d) surveyor examines boat again, including a 30min lift out, ticks off the list, job done, certif arrives a week later. Then an annual check like an MOT. Or alternatively, just give the whole job to a firm that will do the mods and issue the certificate, onestopshop, but personally I wouldn't do that cos there is risk they'd spoil the boat imho. The shopping list (depending on what you have already) is likely £4k, very approx. £1k surveyor fees. £500 lift out fee.
There are lots of good surveyors and I assume there must be lots of bad ones becuase you see some awful coded boats. Graham Booth does mine and is excellent. He is based in Ipswich/Kent/S of France
The code is downloadable lots of places incl mcga.gov.uk. There is the old code (yellow book) plus the new mgn280 code. You can use either. the new mgn280 is't compulsory by law, it is merely optional. Actually there isn't much difference, and I chose the old code but you might prefer the new
Renegade_Master
Well-Known Member
Things like the big radar reflector can be put inside a locker,
is that right jfm so you dont have to have it displayed then?
is that right jfm so you dont have to have it displayed then?
jfm
Well-Known Member
Well, there's often no "right". You just gotta agree it with your surveyor. I can well imagine some not-too-bright surveyors insist the RR is mounted on display on the radar mast. But akaik:
(a) the code says you must have it and be able to deploy in low vis, i think, not that it has to be always deployed, and
(b) as regards the science, there is no reason not to put it in a locker. Either the other boat's radar can see thru the locker, in which case the RR will work, or the locker is opaque to radar in which case the other boat will get a retrun signal from the locker material. The point about RRs is that grp boats are meant to be radar transparent, but that must mean that putting the RR in a GRP locker is ok
Mine is in a locker. So too are my horsehoes and throwing lines and all the other crap. Apart from my small/transaparent "keep shut" window stickers, you can't tell I'm coded. I dont have 1m high cockpit sides (I have 850mm, which is loads) but i used an exemption to get out of the 1m rule there. Surveyor approves!
Surveyor isn't a pushover btw, he's a sensible smart guy with 35yrs experience. I very much value his advice. Just as an example he is very firm about fire risk management, much stricter than other surveyors I've known, and I admire him for that and think he is right
(a) the code says you must have it and be able to deploy in low vis, i think, not that it has to be always deployed, and
(b) as regards the science, there is no reason not to put it in a locker. Either the other boat's radar can see thru the locker, in which case the RR will work, or the locker is opaque to radar in which case the other boat will get a retrun signal from the locker material. The point about RRs is that grp boats are meant to be radar transparent, but that must mean that putting the RR in a GRP locker is ok
Mine is in a locker. So too are my horsehoes and throwing lines and all the other crap. Apart from my small/transaparent "keep shut" window stickers, you can't tell I'm coded. I dont have 1m high cockpit sides (I have 850mm, which is loads) but i used an exemption to get out of the 1m rule there. Surveyor approves!
Surveyor isn't a pushover btw, he's a sensible smart guy with 35yrs experience. I very much value his advice. Just as an example he is very firm about fire risk management, much stricter than other surveyors I've known, and I admire him for that and think he is right
nicks
Well-Known Member
JFM is right, so many people will tell you need this and that, when really you don't. Speak to Henry at marine matters, we highly recomend him -
http://www.marine-matters.co.uk/mca_scv_commercial_coding.htm
http://www.marine-matters.co.uk/mca_scv_commercial_coding.htm
TigaWave
Well-Known Member
Totally agree with jfm, I did my boat a few years ago to the blue code. It took me about two days on a production Bavaria.
Get the code read and understand what is required and what is open to interpretation, leave the questionable bits to be discussed with surveyor. MECAL are very good based in Tavistock.
My surveyor costs were around £400 and extra equipment amounted to a few hundred pounds total cost around a thousand £.
Remote fuel shut off not required as there were god exits near the manual tap, for'd head no anti syphon as insufficient room without detsroying all the internal joinery, so it had a notice not to be used at sea. Main access hatch lockable from both sides was a piece of rope and two cleats.
Get the code read and understand what is required and what is open to interpretation, leave the questionable bits to be discussed with surveyor. MECAL are very good based in Tavistock.
My surveyor costs were around £400 and extra equipment amounted to a few hundred pounds total cost around a thousand £.
Remote fuel shut off not required as there were god exits near the manual tap, for'd head no anti syphon as insufficient room without detsroying all the internal joinery, so it had a notice not to be used at sea. Main access hatch lockable from both sides was a piece of rope and two cleats.
D
Deleted User YDKXO
Guest
Agree with jfm. The code is open to intepretation. The surveyor who did my boat at first insisted that all portholes below the deck were permanently clamped shut. We eventually agreed that all they needed was keep closed at sea stickers! We had a bit of an argument about the height of the cockpit coamings but I won that one too. But coding will make your boat safer. Things like smoke detectors, torches and fire extinguishers in each cabin are well worthwile and so is flameproofing fuel lines and fitting an EPIRB
As jfm says, you can tell a coded boat a mile away mainly by the 2 lifebelts which are supposed to be mounted outside guardrails. I moved mine to less conspicuous positions
As jfm says, you can tell a coded boat a mile away mainly by the 2 lifebelts which are supposed to be mounted outside guardrails. I moved mine to less conspicuous positions
powerskipper
Well-Known Member
The other side to this is.
some peeps don't treat the boats very well and skipper do there best to keep an eye on things but do expect somethings not the way they were if you charter her. also keep your personal stuff either locked away or easily movable out of harms way.
most peeps are great but there are always some that can spoil it.
some peeps don't treat the boats very well and skipper do there best to keep an eye on things but do expect somethings not the way they were if you charter her. also keep your personal stuff either locked away or easily movable out of harms way.
most peeps are great but there are always some that can spoil it.
Renegade_Master
Well-Known Member
"2 lifebelts which are supposed to be mounted outside guardrails. I moved mine to less conspicuous positions"
Mike so you put them inside he guardrails somewhere, when they are "supposed to be outside the guard rails" jfm sticks em in a cupboard?
Which is correct? ermm. confusing innit.
It has to be said that the idea of the horseshoes together with their lights, lines and/or droges (depending which surveyor you have) need to be quickly accessible especially at night for man over board, no good in a cupboard. Also the bracket is designed to keep the light pointing downward or else it will come on, and flaten the battery.
Suppose you could put a huge notice on the cupboard stating they are inside, cant help thinking they would get tangled in a cupboard or have things thrown in with them.
Mike so you put them inside he guardrails somewhere, when they are "supposed to be outside the guard rails" jfm sticks em in a cupboard?
Which is correct? ermm. confusing innit.
It has to be said that the idea of the horseshoes together with their lights, lines and/or droges (depending which surveyor you have) need to be quickly accessible especially at night for man over board, no good in a cupboard. Also the bracket is designed to keep the light pointing downward or else it will come on, and flaten the battery.
Suppose you could put a huge notice on the cupboard stating they are inside, cant help thinking they would get tangled in a cupboard or have things thrown in with them.
Solitaire
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
JFM is right, so many people will tell you need this and that, when really you don't. Speak to Henry at marine matters,
[/ QUOTE ]
So do we! Offer a full service including the writing of the required manuals.
JFM is right, so many people will tell you need this and that, when really you don't. Speak to Henry at marine matters,
[/ QUOTE ]
So do we! Offer a full service including the writing of the required manuals.
Hurricane
Well-Known Member
I know you dont make the rules Clive but those horseshoe lifebelts are the ugliest things I've ever seen.
My boat isn't coded but I thought it prudent to have a couple so I have the inflatable type but, like jfm, they are tucked away. One on the flybridge next to the liferaft and one in the emergency locker with the grab bag. All you have to do is open the locker and throw it - couldnt be easier. I also make a point of instructing any newcomers in their use before we leave - just like you taught me.
Mike
My boat isn't coded but I thought it prudent to have a couple so I have the inflatable type but, like jfm, they are tucked away. One on the flybridge next to the liferaft and one in the emergency locker with the grab bag. All you have to do is open the locker and throw it - couldnt be easier. I also make a point of instructing any newcomers in their use before we leave - just like you taught me.
Mike
D
Deleted User YDKXO
Guest
Clive, apart from looking unsightly, another reason I relocated my lifebelts was that they impeded anybody walking down the side decks on my boat. Mine are now located on the inside of the flybridge and I don't consider them any less accessible than had they remained on the outside. Yes both lifebelts have lines, drogues and lights (which work because I check them)
jfm
Well-Known Member
Yuo say "outside the guard rails" in quotes, but what are you quoting from? Not the yellow book, I think!
As mike and mike say, they're just uuugly. But you assume too much. On a night passage, I have them out, as well as GPS EPIRB in pocket, track set to fine, and so on. When hidden in a locker they can still be in brackets so batteries don't flatten, and they are in a location where the dont and wont get tangled
As mike and mike say, they're just uuugly. But you assume too much. On a night passage, I have them out, as well as GPS EPIRB in pocket, track set to fine, and so on. When hidden in a locker they can still be in brackets so batteries don't flatten, and they are in a location where the dont and wont get tangled
mainshiptom
Well-Known Member
Thanks for all the really good info !
I will proceed with that in mind..
I will proceed with that in mind..
jfm
Well-Known Member
You need a "safety manual" on board too. I'll send you mine by email and you can just adapt it to your boat. I dont think anyone writes one from scratch - they just borrow someone else's and tweak it, so I'm continuing that fine tradition!