Clinker Built Project - Replacing Rivets

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adamwildon

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Hi I have recently accuired a yacht that needs a bit of TLC. She is clinker built and I am told that the rivets need re doing. How do I go about this? Is it something where I can simply drill out one rivet and then immediately replace it? or do I have to take the whole plank off and start again?

Many Thanks in advance

Adam
 
Umm. Could you tell us a bit more about the boat?

Copper nail and rove fastenings are extremely durable, and I franly doubt that they would need replacing. They might need hardening up, perhaps, but that is a fairly easy operation - so long as there are two of you doing it - it cannot be done singlehanded.
 
I refastened my Stella below the waterline over a period of 3 years, it's a lengthy job.I actually found replacement easier than hardening because the roves had become brittle, although the nails themselves were OK.
I replaced every third rivet, then went back and did the intervening ones, to avoid any disruption to the planking.
The sequence was:~
Centre punch the rivet from inside and drill down 'til the rove comes off on the drill bit.
Use parallel punch to drive nail through, so outsider can pull it out.
Outsider drives new nail in [tip; make sure you aren't sitting on the nail hole]
Outsider places metal dolly over nail head.
Insider drives down rove, cuts off excess nail and then peens nail over rove [this is the bit that needs practice].
I found the main problem was communication between insider & outsider. It involved much shouting and strained tempers until a routine was established.
The continual tap tap tap, pause, tap tap tap also annoyed the neighbours. So that was good.
Having the right tools i.e. rivet set, dolly, nippers and correct weight hammer makes the job much easier.
Good luck.
 
As advised above is the way to go a couple of things I have to add having re-riveted all the 3000 odd plus rivets on "Mercia III" is. We found it advantageous to use the "Nippers" to cut off the riveted nail over the rove ( no messy drilling's in the bilges) then have the man on the out side observe carefully and then gently 'start' the nail when he can see the stopping cracking and being driven out he places and holds up tight a hollow dolly (Make your hollow dolly from a length of steel bar about 3/4 of an inch diameter 8 to 10 ins long and with a hole just bigger then the head of the nail then put a decent mushroom 3ins dia type end to hold up with and with a well polished end to prevent marking the area around the nail hole ) with a hollow dolly over the nail area it will prevent the wood from splintering around the counter sink for the nail and stopping, drive out the nail using a punch till the head is clear (do not hit to hard as this may put a set or bend in the nail which will enlarge the hole as it is drawn) and can then be pulled out put a peace of soft scrap on the hull planks to prevent damage a good straight pull is better than the sideways pull by just a simple pull with a crow bar or claw hammer so it may need re packing as your out side man draws the nail. He will also need a punch to drive in the new nail to the bottom of the counter sink and ensure he sets the nail truly in the square hole. A nice touch is to final the riveting with a polished round hollow punch it gives the riveted head a professional finish.
Good luck after the first 50 you will have got the hang of it and want to go back and re-do the first 10. So set up a bit of a rig and have a practise with you "Dolly Man"
 
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