Clever solution required for solar panel instal please

[xyachtdave]

I'm thinking of trying to install our solar panel to the sliding hatch on the boat. It fits perfectly and with a tiny amount of trimming to the grp coaming it will slide open and closed without issues.

This would be an improvement to our current set up of temporarily bungying the panel out during the week and putting it in a locker when sailing, also hopefully providing a few amps when the boat is in use. Also the hatch and the solar panel are both black so will blend in nicely.

I'm struggling to think of a clever way to deal with the cable length as the hatch opens and closes. The best I can come up with is stuffing it in the halyard bag, which offends my OCD unfortunately.

Any clever ideas, or amusing comments most welcome.

Thanks

 

[Norman_E]

You could try fitting two sets of contacts made from phosphor bronze strip. One set to make with the hatch fully open, the other with it fully shut. That way you have no trailing wires.

 

[Sarnia]

You could try fitting two sets of contacts made from phosphor bronze strip. One set to make with the hatch fully open, the other with it fully shut. That way you have no trailing wires.

Clever solution, alternative use micro switches, clas olsen or maplins.

 

[ibbo]

Attach the cable securely at the rear of the sliding door, but underneath. Attach the other end to a fixed place at the front of the garage. use an elastic to take up the slack when the hatch is closed. There will be gradual wear in the cable, but good quality flexible cabling would last quite some time. track or switches are not good in a marine environment.

In fact having thought about it I might give it a try myself!

Mike

 

[ghostlymoron]

The pbo team did just this on their project boat. Described in this months magazine. Involved some sort of pulley arrangement.

 

[ibbo]

I guess it just goes to show, there's nothing new in this world, or maybe I should spend more time in WH Smiths reading the magasines.....

Mike

 

[Sarnia]

Attach the cable securely at the rear of the sliding door, but underneath. Attach the other end to a fixed place at the front of the garage. use an elastic to take up the slack when the hatch is closed. There will be gradual wear in the cable, but good quality flexible cabling would last quite some time. track or switches are not good in a marine environment.

In fact having thought about it I might give it a try myself!

Mike

I agree switches can be a challenge on a boat, I have several on mine well protected ones no problems.

 

[fireball]

We fixed ours on the hatch garage roof - so it didn't have to move - but we were fortunate there!

I would think that as it's a low current device then a curled cable to join two static cables may work well - if you fit it on the diagonal rather than lengthways it gives the cable a bit more space to stretch and compact.

 

[prv]

Clever solution, alternative use micro switches, clas olsen or maplins.

And how will microswitches transfer the current from hatch to boat?

Pete

 

[xyachtdave]

Attach the cable securely at the rear of the sliding door, but underneath. Attach the other end to a fixed place at the front of the garage. use an elastic to take up the slack when the hatch is closed. There will be gradual wear in the cable, but good quality flexible cabling would last quite some time. track or switches are not good in a marine environment.

In fact having thought about it I might give it a try myself!

Mike

Guinea Pig sorted......

That sounds like a good idea, I'll have a look if I make it down to the boat later

The pbo team did just this on their project boat. Described in this months magazine. Involved some sort of pulley arrangement.

I thought they get all the magazine ideas from YBW.....maybe not this month!

And how will microswitches transfer the current from hatch to boat?

Pete

Assuming there is another wire involved inside with this arrangement!

 

[Stemar]

Ours are mounted on the hatch garage, which works well. If you haven't got one, then could you build a frame from ally angle and pop rivets so the hatch is free to slide underneath?

Whatever system, I'd suggest a system that requires tools to remove, to discourage opportunistic scrotes.

 

[LadyInBed]

Could the cables be snaked between the head lining and the coach roof?

 

[xyachtdave]

Ours are mounted on the hatch garage, which works well. If you haven't got one, then could you build a frame from ally angle and pop rivets so the hatch is free to slide underneath?

Whatever system, I'd suggest a system that requires tools to remove, to discourage opportunistic scrotes.

I'll take a couple of photos later if I get to the boat, but unfortunately the hatch garage is too curved for the panel. I agree with the security aspect regarding people with different moral values to ourselves!

 

[PhillM]

Why do you need the cable to be permanent? How about one short cable that is attached to the panel and two sockets on the deck. Plug in to one when the hatch is open and the other when the hatch is closed. No moving parts, no wear and tear.

Or another thought, if you do want it plugged in permanently, how about a curly cord, like on a phone handset? Curled when closed and stretched when open. Here is a supplier: http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/retractable-coiled-cable.html - never used them, just a link I found.

 

[nimbusgb]

Replace the hatch slide rails with brass strip. Positive one side negative t'other.

A couple of electric motor brushes and you can use the 'powerhatch' in any position ( although when closed the shaded part of the panel will kill it )

Doubt you'll be working with more than an Amp or two off a tiny hatch panel.

Two contacts as suggested in the first reply sounds best, you can buy spring loaded contacts.

 

[Stemar]

I'll take a couple of photos later if I get to the boat, but unfortunately the hatch garage is too curved for the panel. I agree with the security aspect regarding people with different moral values to ourselves!

So is mine, which is why mine are mounted on an ally frame above it.

 

[Dave_Seager]

You should be able to position the cable so that there is minimal slack in the fully open and fully closed positions. To do this the fixed point on the moving and static parts should be closest together when the hatch is exactly halfway open. You might be able to attach the cable to the forward end of the hatch and half way along the deck inside the garage so that it is always concealed.

 

[xyachtdave]

So is mine, which is why mine are mounted on an ally frame above it.

Sorry, I'm an idiot but in fairness suffering a bit of man flu at the moment!

I read that as the frame went over the hatch, I was wondering how you got in and out the boat.....

Great suggestions above as always, will post a photo tomorrow of panel in situ.

 

[xyachtdave]

The panel slides in with about 2 mm off the lip under the instruments and is a perfect fit. The wire end where it exists the panel is on the left at the front.

Some more thought required before drilling any holes!