Clear epoxy.

[KINGFISHER 9]

Thinking of taking some varnishwork back to the wood (teak - toerails, handrails etc) ) and starting again ... sure I read somewhere recently about doing 2 or 3 coats of clear epoxy before varnishing ... anyone done this and if so - what do I look for a tin of on the shelf ... brand name?

 

[oldsaltoz]

Thinking of taking some varnishwork back to the wood and starting again ... sure I read somewhere recently about doing 2 or 3 coats of clear epoxy before varnishing ... anyone done this and if so - what do I look for a tin of on the shelf ... brand name?

Most people use a standard epoxy resin, It is all but clear and such a thin layer is not enough to be noticeable; the trick is make sure the varnish has a very high UV protection rating or the epoxy will fail as it's not UV stable.

Though you can purchase UV stable epoxy these days, have managed to find a supplier myself.

Good luck.

 

[DownWest]

I've mentioned this before but, .. Resoltech Re 1010 is a good water based coating resin. First coat is 1 unit resin: 1 unit hardener: 1 unit water. Next coat is 1/2 unit water to the mix. Third is neat. It is very easy to get smooth coats, not much sanding if recoated under 24hr. No bloom to wash off. Then several coats of a good U-V protected varnish.
One nice effect is it goes on milky, then soon clears as the water gases off. Easy to see what you have done, or missed.

Sold in UK by www.connexiontechnology.co.uk

Just a happy customer.
A

 

[planteater]

I did this using SP Eposeal 300 penetrating epoxy which was subsequently covered with Le Tonkinois. The idea was to strengthen and waterproof the wood with the epoxy and then provide a UV resistant varnish that could be patch repaired with the Tonk.

The first bits I treated are now 3 seasons old and it seems to have worked well. These were only small areas - the rubbing strip and handrails.

 

[Amulet]

I epoxied everything a few years ago - never again.

Maybe you'll do better than me - needs plenty of varnish over for uv protection an fails in a very ugly way.

I've now got rid of it all.

If you do go for it, the West system does a special coating catalyst which I think is meant to give better viscosity for coating and maybe be clearer.

But I'd give it a swerve and accept that the only way to nice varnish is lots of coats with traditional materials.

 

[Tranona]

Thinking of taking some varnishwork back to the wood (teak - toerails, handrails etc) ) and starting again ... sure I read somewhere recently about doing 2 or 3 coats of clear epoxy before varnishing ... anyone done this and if so - what do I look for a tin of on the shelf ... brand name?

Unless you desparately want a furniture gloss finish, suggest you save yourself a lot of on going hard work and use Sikkens Novatech/Novatop. Easy to aplly, very long lasting, easy to repair because it is microporous, not an inflexible film and cheap. Only downside is that it does not give a high gloss - which to my mind is totally unnecessary on trim such as hand rails and rubbing strakes.

 

[angelsson]

I would second Tranona, have used Sikkens on toerails, on a 36', went back to teak, and applied 3 coats, maintenance is 1 coat a year after a very light rub down, usually with the scouring side of a sponge and soap. That is in the Med with high UV, takes an hour at most.
Also Amulet seems to have good advice, sounds right but have no experience of using epoxy personaly.

 

[xtiffer]

As I have posted previously I use Wood Impreg 120 (clear epoxy primer) followed by Seatop PU360UVR (polyurethane varnish).
4 coats of the Impreg followed by 5 coats of the PU will end
up looking like 20 coats of Epifanes.
I am now recoating work I did 2 years ago and it is still lovely
other than mechanical dings form halyards etc.
A French product made by Map Yachting and Available through Sicomin. Just google the names for the sites.
Cheers,
Chris

 

[bluedragon]

Thinking of taking some varnishwork back to the wood (teak - toerails, handrails etc) ) and starting again ... sure I read somewhere recently about doing 2 or 3 coats of clear epoxy before varnishing ... anyone done this and if so - what do I look for a tin of on the shelf ... brand name?

SP systems have coating grade epoxy with fast / slow catalyst (can't remember the numbers) that I've used. Works well with some provisos. The wood needs to be a) dry b) solvent wiped with acetone before applying c) needs at least a few coats of a good UV resistant varnish. If water gets underneath over time it lifts, but very easy to get off with a warm air gun - just comes away as a strip - then re-do.

 

[ianat182]

I mentioned on a previous thread that I have a tin of JOTUN RAVILLAK UV Resistant varnish;reckoned to be "a quick drying, durable high gloss with Tung Oil, High Elasticity,gives golden,glowing finish on all woods." It says all this on the sample tin I have in front of me.
I'm waiting for a warmer day to use on my ash tiller for starters to try it out before getting the full price tin at a chandlery selling JOTUN products.
might be a better bet than epoxy for you.

ianat182

 

[KINGFISHER 9]

Tend to agree with Tranona and Angelsson above ... I'd been thinking about Sikkens... I've used it on the gunwhales of a grp dinghy very successfully and it's so much easier than using two pot stuff .... think I'll use it on the big boat ... as you say, toe-rails don't need to be shiny!