Cleaning up Prop

[sailorbenji]

Hi all,

I'm ashamed we normally leave such work to a yard, but this season with a bit more spare time on our hands, we're doing it ourselves.

We have a 2 year old Flex-o-fold bronze prop on a sail drive.

It's come out the water with a couple of barnacles here and there on it, and tarnishing generally. What's the preferred method to clean up the prop? I was thinking wire wool, or wire wheel on a drill? But I don't know if rubbing away on bronze with steel is a good idea?

Looking for any and all advice....we've got a prop-speed kit to apply to it once cleaned up.

 

[Daydream believer]

If it does not have any antifoul paint then brick cleaner is the stuff. Put on with a 2 inch brush scrub in & it will fizz a bit then gradually you can wear away the crud. When clean wash off with water. remember to wear goggles & gloves a brick cleaner will contain hydrochloric acid.Some then polish the prop but I do not bother .

 

[geem]

Hi all,

I'm ashamed we normally leave such work to a yard, but this season with a bit more spare time on our hands, we're doing it ourselves.

We have a 2 year old Flex-o-fold bronze prop on a sail drive.

It's come out the water with a couple of barnacles here and there on it, and tarnishing generally. What's the preferred method to clean up the prop? I was thinking wire wool, or wire wheel on a drill? But I don't know if rubbing away on bronze with steel is a good idea?

Looking for any and all advice....we've got a prop-speed kit to apply to it once cleaned up.

We use hydraulic acid with a brush then rinse with water. I then use a flap sander to polish to shiny shiny. We don't add anything else.

 

[NormanS]

We use hydraulic acid with a brush then rinse with water. I then use a flap sander to polish to shiny shiny. We don't add anything else.

I suspect you've been struck by predictive text. ?

 

[[70521]]

Remove barnacles with a finger and walk away. Prop has been in the water for three years and three small barnacles found.

 

[RJJ]

Brick cleaner (with care of eyes and hands) applied with a spray bottle. I'm sure a brush works as well. It's satisfyingly fizzy.

I give it a polish with a drill attachment and (in my case) stainless steel polish, then add lanolin+heat. It seems to last a few months.

 

[James_Calvert]

Check the Propspeed instructions.

One prop gunk I bought required sanding with coarse paper. Of course I only read this after I'd polished the prop as smooth as smooth.

 

[penfold]

Flap sander is rather aggressive; I wouldn't use anything harsher than a green scourer or maybe wire wool unless the bronze is degrading and heavily pitted.

 

[geem]

Flap sander is rather aggressive; I wouldn't use anything harsher than a green scourer or maybe wire wool unless the bronze is degrading and heavily pitted.

Depends on the grade of flap sander. Obviously you don't want an agressive grade. It doesn't need much pressure either. The whole job takes me about 10mins

 

[LittleSister]

Depends on the grade of flap sander. Obviously you don't want an agressive grade. It doesn't need much pressure either. The whole job takes me about 10mins

You mean those hours I spent doubled over doing it by hand were unnecessary?!

 

[Neeves]

Prop Speed needs the surface of the prop to be rough, or the Prop Speed will fall off. It has to be sufficiently rough that when you pull your fingers across the surface it feels nasty.

So do NOT polish.

Few people have applied Prop Speed - so don't listen to much of the advice you will get - read the instructions! That's what they are there for.

We have used a wire brush on an angle grinder. But wear goggles - the wires in the brush can pull out.

Follow the instructions for Prop Speed meticulously -if you think you know better - it will fall off (which is why Prop Speed was originally 'only professional application' no do it yourself).

Once you have the prop roughed up - do NOT touch it with your hands - the hand will have grease on it and the Prop Speed will not stick. Wear rubber gloves.


Once you apply Prop Speed, or Prop One or any of the other formulations - they are thought to be carcinogenic, wear a face mask when you remove, next time round. It becomes difficult to apply any conventional coating as Prop Speed etc are silicone coatings and it is difficult to remove all the silicone - again wire brush and an acid wash then a degreaser.

If when you use the prop with Prop Speed as the AF remember the Prop Speed is soft and anything you hit with the prop will damage the coating and be a location where fouling can take hold.

When we have used Prop Speed, or Prop One we have taken the prop off completely, cleaned it, coated it and then replaced. If you leave it on the shaft there is a chance it will get some dust, paint splashes etc on it. So when you have cleaned it - store in a polythene bag to keep it clean - and wear rubber gloves.

Good Luck,

Jonathan

 

[rib]

Been in the water 15 years................ Does get hand cleaned once a year thou lol

 

[michael_w]

Brass wire brush on an electric drill. Once clean, paint with Hammerite special metals primer and then Trilux.

 

[geem]

Been in the water 15 years................ Does get hand cleaned once a year thou lol

Just what we do. I clean it about once every six weeks under water to keep it like that. Easy with a hookah in water that's 27degC here

 

[Halo]

I have a flex o fold 3 blade. The blades are returned to mirror finish by dipping in warm half strength brick acid and wiping with a sponge. It takes a couple of minutes per blade. I paint the hub with special metals primer and trilux to reduce the consumption of anodes.
Keep the used acid and when well out at sea pump it out through the head - this will use up any remaining acidity in cleaning out the pee residue from the head and pipes.

 

[stuartwineberg]

Much as above. I have Volvo folder, I strip it down and take it home, bath everything in brick cleaner, patch up the hammerite special metals primer and spray 2 coats of trilux. I wish it did more to stop the silly Volvo anodes from wasting.

 

[Neeves]

The OP has said he already has a Prop Speed kit, not cheap - he is unlikely to throw it away (or not use it - as they have a shelf life) and use Trilux.

Jonathan

 

[tmtracey]

I use a drill with a scotch brite wheel- much less aggressive than a wire wheel but the main advantage is it is flexible and bends to the shape of the curved blades as you clean them.