Cleaning up a stern drive

[bbilly]

Any learned advice on cleaning up my stern drive ovr the winter? I've never done this before and some guidance would be appreciated. The paint work looks bad and there are some shiny alu patches. The guy next to me always delegates cleaining the af to the workshop as he says it's highly toxic and it also looks a difficult task with all the nooks and crannies. How important is preparing the drive for the af and what should i do if i want to look after the casing.

Any tips or suggestions greatly appreciated.

Will

<hr width=100% size=1>"If you're too open minded your brains fall out"

 

[Joe]

Get it high pressure washed down to remove the old paint and any antifouling.
Then if you are going to paint it, Make sure you first prime it with an aluminium primer, And then use the special outdrive antifouling without any copper ingredients.
Various brand names.
Joe



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[Talbot]

if it is showing bare aluminium, there is a good chance that the existing anodes are not doing their job properly, and the aluminium in the leg is acting as an anode. I suffered from this problem until I added an additional large anode bolted to the aluminium leg.

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[oldgit]

Nip into your local chandler.Get the little booklet available,which will detail primers and the leg antifoul types.Do not use any brush with steel bristles.
This is without doubt the most horrid job ever created by the gods of boating.You will be lying on your back in an inch of water and a howling east wind cos you need to get to every nook and cranny,sell your granny if poss and pay someone else to do it.
From one who has been there./forums/images/icons/laugh.gif
Ps to get an idea of cost you will prob need 1 x tin primer and 1 x tin A/F per leg if you careful.if not add 50%.
PPs.Titchy little tin is about 18 quid each

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[Solitaire]

Umm, as he is based in Italy I don't think the same problems of easterly wind and cold water may apply - /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif

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[duncan]

1. do not a/f over primer - you need to prime any bare alloy with the appropriate primer then use a proper top coat before antifouling.
2. Why not take the drive off and home with you over the winter, it needs to come off to do a full service on it anyway and it's by far the best way to do the paint properly and should last another 5 years looking good.
Both Mercruiser and Volvo publish full prep and paint recomendation with their service manuals.

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[tcm]

Re: supplementary regarding stainless

i have s/s rudders as you know, and despite lots of primer onnem, there are shinty patches. All the a/f has gone, and a fair load of the primer. The trim tabs are ok.

is this a prob of lack of big enuf anodes on the rudders? or wot?

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[Talbot]

Re: supplementary regarding stainless

With yours I expect that it is more likely to be just a case of the forces involved in trying to trim a boat that weighs as much as yours does. Each of your trim tabs has a fairly respectable anode already, and the trim tabs are stainless. Most outdrives have a much smaller anode fitted on an area of much more aluminium, thus more susceptible to creating an electric circuit.

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[bbilly]

Thanks for all the replies. I think the shiny alu areas are due to me try to scrub of the calcified worms with a rather hard brush while swimming. Maybe I inadvertenly rubbed off the af and it was bare alu underneath. Before applying the alu primer and then the top coat do I have to remove all the old af and how? Sandpaper (no steel brushes) or can I use a chemical stripper. Sanding in all those crooks and crannies sounds a pain in the a!?*e if not impossible. Good idea to bring it home and work it over in the garden shed.

Will

<hr width=100% size=1>"If you're too open minded your brains fall out"

 

[oldgit]

My little book says wash of with degreaser and remove any loose stuff and sand.Prime exposed alloy.Apply under coat and then A/F.
Approx 12 hours between coats seems the norm.I used Blakes Lynx in a pretty white colour.

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[duncan]

you dont need to remove the old af unless you are planning a complete 'beauty treatment' - if it;s got af then just wash it nicely as has been said. Where you have bare patches clean back to alloy - I use a dremel with a stainless wire brush and or sanding attachments, prime area then whaterver paint system you are using (on a Mercruiser I use their Black top coat but it does request a long drying period). At this point a gentle rub all over will remove paint that is over af, then re antifoul the whole thing - I use 3 coats of trilux but that's cos I scrub the thing a fair few times a year!

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[bbilly]

Thanks for all the guidance. It can get cold and wet here too. I don't envy the UK weather but I do miss Jacob's Cream Crackers, can't find them anywhere.



<hr width=100% size=1>"If you're too open minded your brains fall out"