Cleaning small pieces of teak back to fresh wood

[superheat6k]

I have several lengths of teak trim mouldings I want to get back to a newer / fresher surface, but these are fiddly profiles, and I am concerned if I start rubbing them I will cause an uneven finish to the neat spindle moulded surfaces.

I was going to use nitromors to strip the old varnish, so any tips for other chemicals and how to finally finish them without losing too much wood, and also how to get into the internal corners of long pieces, and on several triple rows of 1/2 round grooves about 6mm diameter.

 

[burgundyben]

Wire wool Trev. When you do the nitromorsing, Gloves!

 

[Tammany]

Screwfix own brand stripper works well and a lot cheaper than nitromors. All strippers now are quite weak including nitromors as the strong chemical they used is no illegal in the UK. It used to burn but now you can't feel anything if you accidently get it on your skin.

 

[PaulRainbow]

Not sure if you'll be able to hold them, but a pressure washer up close and personal made short work cleaning of some external teak. Obviously strip it first.

 

[superheat6k]

Wire wool Trev. When you do the nitromorsing, Gloves!

Thanks Ben.

Tammany what was the actual chemical in Nitromors that was banned - I might be able to get some through our trade paint suppliers, or have they banned all use not just domestic ?

PS Just found a seller on Ebay selling Methylene Chloride based heavy duty stripper. A litre should suffice for my current project.

 

[JumbleDuck]

Wire wool Trev. When you do the nitromorsing, Gloves!

Wire wool maybe, but not (mild) steel wool because little particles of steel get lodged in the wood and rust. Stainless or brass only.

 

[Keith-i]

I'm currently in the process of stripping varnish off various bits of teak in the boat and have been using Polycell paint stripper. It's nothing like as potent as Nitromors used to be but effective enough for a few layers of varnish. Wire wool or a good stiff nail brush works well.

 

[Anwen]

Thanks Ben.

Tammany what was the actual chemical in Nitromors that was banned - I might be able to get some through our trade paint suppliers, or have they banned all use not just domestic ?

PS Just found a seller on Ebay selling Methylene Chloride based heavy duty stripper. A litre should suffice for my current project.

Methylene Chloride is the missing ingredient in Nitromors. You have already found the only supplier I have found to still sell the good stuff!

 

[burgundyben]

Wire wool maybe, but not (mild) steel wool because little particles of steel get lodged in the wood and rust. Stainless or brass only.

Ah, yes, I assumed the trims were off the boat and done at home, in which case as long as careful the steel stuff is fine.

But as you say, anywhere near the boat bronze is best.

Trev - I don't know of a local supplier of bronze wool, mail order.

 

[PhillM]

I find a scraper quite useful. You need to keep it sharp and not get over zealous. But it does the job nicely.

Edit: you can get bronze wool here http://www.brownells.co.uk/BRONZE-WOOL
It seems like somthing shotgun owners like.

 

[superheat6k]

Ah, yes, I assumed the trims were off the boat and done at home, in which case as long as careful the steel stuff is fine.

But as you say, anywhere near the boat bronze is best.

Trev - I don't know of a local supplier of bronze wool, mail order.

This is a homer, but thanks for all the advice.

Does the chemical clean off just the varnish or does it attack dark patches too ?

 

[ex-Gladys]

This is a homer, but thanks for all the advice.

Does the chemical clean off just the varnish or does it attack dark patches too ?

Oxalic acid as used for whitening Gel coat, will get rid of the dark stains, but you will need to ensure it's totally rinsed of before recoating

 

[lw395]

I've just done a job at home using 'Panther' paint stripper from Toolstation. I used a brass wire brush a fair amount, plus various scrapers and nylon scouring pads. This was on metal.
The stuff was pretty effective.
On wood I mostly use just sharp scrapers with or without a heat gun depending on how the paint/varnish behaves. For long mouldings, grind an old screwdriver to the right shape to get in the grooves.

 

[Morgana]

The trouble with this approach is that the high pressure water spray is quite likely to take some of the softer pieces of wood with it leaving a rough surface which has to be sanded down - I've done it!!