Cleaning prop while afloat.

[pcatterall]

Our yacht has spent the winter afloat in Sardinia. The prop had a hefty clump of mussel type things when we left and I suspect there will be plenty more by spring.


I have heard that some yachts can hardly move after a winter here.


We don’t want to lift out until next winter so the prop will have to be cleaned while afloat.


We may use a diver or it may be a wet suit job ( if I can persuade SWIMBO to do the job of course!!)


How critical does this cleaning have to be ? will a scrape off with a sharpe edged bit of plank do the trick.


I have invested in a borescope and ,once I can connect it to our Huddl, hope to be at least able to see what is going on down there.



Any tips/advice very welcome.

 

[jrudge]

I use the plastic smoothing things that you smooth down decals with.

If you can find one at a decent price buy a chain mail butchers glove. Saves yr fingers

 

[johnalison]

I think it depends on the kind of prop and boat how clean it needs to be. On my 34 footer with a folding 2 blade prop it needs to be as clean as possible, with no perceptible roughness, but if you have a dirty great 3 blader and a chuggy engine it may matter less.

 

[duncan99210]

I use a steel paint scraper to get the growth off the prop and finish it with a stainless steel pan cleaner. I usually do it as soon as we're clear of the winter berth and again mid summer and again just before stopping for the winter. It takes me about 10 minutes to get the prop clean, but that's using scuba gear. I also change the anode as required.

I found that having a fouled prop led to vibration, due to imbalance when heavily fouled. It also led to woeful performance and excessive fuel consumption. On our first spring passage from Barcelona to Mallorca, some 22 hours motoring, I couldn't get the engine to rev above 2,100 (normal about 3,000) and we burnt twice as much fuel. Cleaning the prop was a revelation, cured the vibration, speed restriction and fuel consumption.

 

[LadyInBed]

I use a BBQ scraper.
I suggest that you put a shot weight down to give you something (the riser line) to hold on to?

 

[VicMallows]

One problem I don't have....... Bilge keeler on a half-tide mooring

 

[PuffTheMagicDragon]

I made myself a 'special' tool. It's two pieces of wood, around 6" long, nailed together to form a short 'T'. Held from the 'upright' it can handle most of the fouling; for the stuff that is more persistent I hold it from one end of the 'horizontal' bit and I push hard. Being wooden it does not do any harm to the hull or the prop. It also means that if I lose grip it floats gently to the surface. I use ordinary gardening gloves for knuckle protection.

 

[alan]

I use a cheap divers knife with a serrated edge. Essential to protect your hands with washing-up gloves or similar (those critters will cut you to pieces!!). Prop doesn't need to be perfect, just get the worst off - at least for the first clean; then if you have time and water is warm enough try and get some of the smaller stuff off with a wire pan cleaner.

Alan.

 

[TQA]

This is a regular chore for me. I use a very stiff 3 inch scraper on a pole. Mine is 8 ft which is too long but I use the same pole with an eight inch scraper for the hull. Six ft will do fine.

This lets you scrape the prop from the surface without diving using a mask, snorkel and flippers. I have a big chunky three blader with a Perky so I don't have to get it perfect but I can feel the difference if I only do a half decent job.

 

[LONG_KEELER]

Some racing boats used to have a "scuttle" where the prop could be accessed from inside the boat.

This was primarily used to make sure the blades had folded. Are they nuts ?

Seems to be a good idea for cruising boats.

I noticed on a canal holiday, the boat had one to clear the prop from bags etc. It was fun looking through it as well.