Choosing wood for a laminted tiller.

Amazing responses.

It's for a Contessa 32, so really has to be the shape of the original, classic look

Don't need to make a spare because the old one is fine.

I think I have enough iroko, so unless anyone chips in over the next few days, it'll be that and ash.
 
Personally I would,nt use ash.My previous boat had ash rubbing strakes,I spent more time on them than the rest of the boat.Ash loves water and soaks it up like blotting paper.
 
Teak would not be my choice, looks great, but being an oil rich timber it can have problems with epoxy, it just will not soak in far enough to give good protection or adhesion.

Also note: exposed epoxy needs a good high UV stable varnish with extra coats to any real real UV protection.

Good luck and fair winds. :)
 
boguing said:
Can anyone give me a definitive view on oak, with regard to water and salt etc?
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Oak goes dark with water as well but is more durable than ash. Look at straight grained Douglas Fir. semi durable, stable, good contrast colour and easy to bend and laminate as it takes glue well. If you have straight grained Iroko - not the curly grained stuff the two would go together well, although the 30 year seasoned African Mahogany in my garage would be even better!
 
Ash is fine if it is ALL out in the open air. If it goes into a stainless steel box section at the point of maximum stress you have trouble. Trapped water, especially fresh (rain), rots it quite quickly.
 
Oh, the shame.

I've only just noticed (and corrected) 'laminted'.

To throw a new thought in - I have oodles of bamboo composite available. Good colour contrast with iroko, but steaming it is probably pointless due to the glue used to make it.

nb. This is 'decking' and is made by cutting the bamboo growth rings out and slicing up the rest before gluing back together for a finished 170x19 plank. Because it it sold as weatherproof, I assume that the glue is.

I'll have a play over the weekend to find out what bend radius vs. layer thickness can be achieved before things go splintering, but will also test steaming.

For anybody not familiar with it, it is a lovely 'wood' to use, but it has a drawback for a perfectionist. The growth nodes are black, and mass production lets a few bits get into the finished product.

On this project I can just ditch the bits if that happens on the visible surface.
 
boguing said:
Can anyone give me a definitive view on oak, with regard to water and salt etc?
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Just as a matter of interest, almost all clinker built dinghy’s, fishing boats and a lot of heavily built workboats were, and still are all built with oak frames, either grown oak frames or steamed oak frames, so I don't see a problem with salt water.
I think untreated oak in fresh water would probably rot quicker?
However a no, no is any form of ferrous or steel fixings as it will turn the oak black.
 
terryoff1 said:
What about using a solid piece of ash for a tiller approx. 3foot x2"x2", any thoughts.

Thanks all
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No problem with using solid ash - an axe handle for example might suit. Needs protecting as it is not a durable wood. Laminated tillers as discussed here are popular because you can make curved shapes easily and they are, to some, visually attractive. Also good fun to make if you have the time.
 
Actually I think that I knew that, thanks for reminding me.

Good. A definite answer!

Ta.

xeitosaphil said:
Just as a matter of interest, almost all clinker built dinghy’s, fishing boats and a lot of heavily built workboats were, and still are all built with oak frames, either grown oak frames or steamed oak frames, so I don't see a problem with salt water.
I think untreated oak in fresh water would probably rot quicker?
However a no, no is any form of ferrous or steel fixings as it will turn the oak black.
Click to expand...
 
A diversity of views about ash have been expressed.

The durability of timbers is well documented and, as many have said, ash is classified as perishable (Class 5) - the lowest classification. It is nonetheless preferred for tillers for its bending strength. It will rot if not completely sealed, whether it is out in the open or hidden away in a wet rudder stock. If it goes black it is rotten and will be weaker - though how much is enough to matter depends on how over-strength your tiller is in the first instance and how far the rot has penetrated.

I have found this out the hard way, with the tiller having deteriorated in the rudder-stock where it was not visible. It came off in my hand, and I sailed up the beach.

I have replaced it with ash, which I keep well coated in varnish and inspect regularly.

Oak is probably a good substitute and is a lot less likely to rot than ash being classified as "durable" (Class 2). Teak, iroko, greenheart are in the top "very durable" class.
 
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