choosing the right Bow roller
- Thread starter GillianW62
- Start date
geem
Well-known member
My forestay has a solid stainless steel machined rod about 1" diameter that acts as an extension below the toggle. Is elevates the furler above the anchor. Being a solid chunk of stainless, the 1"rod can take a knock from the anchor. Funnily enough, I was looking at a friend's Profurl furler that it mounted similar to yours. Lots if scratches and dents on the furler from contact with the anchor
rogerthebodger
Well-known member
This is the twin bow roller and forestay fitting I had built for my boat
dunedin
Well-known member
Not sure that any different bow roller would help there - but perhaps a bit of S/s rod bent in a U shape might hold the chain lower and prevent hitting the furler?
Only disadvantage would be make removing the anchor of the bow roller a bit more hassle.
Only disadvantage would be make removing the anchor of the bow roller a bit more hassle.
Tranona
Well-known member
a common problem when fitting an NG anchor like your Manson to a boat that was not designed for a self stowing anchor. Ideal is to have a new stemhead fitting and roller made to take the anchor, although you might find a longer one from the standard range of many chandlers like Force4, Marine Superstore etc. Many of these are longer than the one you have and some have tilting mechanisms to aid launching and retrieval. It may also be possible to pull the anchor right in and protect the hull with a stainless steel plate.
bluerm166
Well-known member
Yes I already had a toggle extension under the furler and a centreline undersized roller but this was still a pain.
Adding a standard Lewmar long fixed roller assembly (probably 66840008 short / option 09 long) alongside the existing was economic and fairly easy to fix,including repositioning a fairlead ,leaves the anchor ready to roll off and frees the deck locker for a typical chain and warp rode.I did still protect the upper bow but nothing jams as it could previously so my wife can easily drop it. NB not a Fulmar class boat.
Adding a standard Lewmar long fixed roller assembly (probably 66840008 short / option 09 long) alongside the existing was economic and fairly easy to fix,including repositioning a fairlead ,leaves the anchor ready to roll off and frees the deck locker for a typical chain and warp rode.I did still protect the upper bow but nothing jams as it could previously so my wife can easily drop it. NB not a Fulmar class boat.
Supertramp
Well-known member
+1 for raising the furler out of reach of the anchor. But it is likely to involve shortening the forestay and furler which is not straightforward, at least not to me.
Before I raised my furler I used to have to manually guide the anchor past the furler, not impossible but a pain.
Before I raised my furler I used to have to manually guide the anchor past the furler, not impossible but a pain.
LiftyK
Well-known member
Mantus makes an anchor snubber that can keep an anchor clear of the gel coat.
Mantus Anchor Guard | Anchor Mate
Mantus Anchor Guard | Anchor Mate
Neeves
Well-known member
Welcome to the Forum.
You could extend your bow roller and make what seems to be called a 'drop nose' bow roller to which Tranona refers. They don't extended the measured length of you yacht as they 'sort of' fold up. You could of course remove the existing bow roller and add a new longer bow roller or a new drop nose bow roller but extending the current roller is but one option.
Go and look at bow rollers, google first up, and then visit chandlers or your local marina for ideas. You could simply have made a 'U' shaped extension which will 'push' the roller out and your anchor shank will then move from the vertical to the horizontal a short distance forward - and thus clear the furler. The extension could be simply bolted to the existing roller.
A marine stainless fabricator will have been exposed to this problem in the past - you are not alone.
An alternative is to stop retrieval 'just' before the anchor arrives at the bow roller and then retrieve by hand. You will then have a length of slack chain and need a short strop and chain hook to hold the anchor against the bow roller - this procedure means you are not over stressing the windlass as the anchor passes over the bow roller. Deployment is the opposite, release the hook on the strop, have the anchor dangling freely and then deploy as usual. It also means you are not using the windlass to hold the anchor when at sea (which again stresses the windlass, unnecessarily). The same short strop and chain hook can be used as a 'snubber' for the anchor when deployed and then the windlass takes no snatch loads, they are taken by the strop, though you will of course be using a proper nylon snubber, and the strop is simply the back up.
Here is a picture, you need to use your imagination to convert to your bow roller.
The windlass is to the right and the bow roller to the left. The anchor has been retrieved from just below the roller by hand and then secured with a short strop and chain hook, leaving some slack chain. The anchor is now secured independent of the windlass and retained by the strop attached to a strong point (could be a horn bow cleat, in this case the aft end of the bow roller).
Its cheap and simple (you could add the strop and hook in 30 minutes) - but you need to alter your anchor handling procedures.
Making any alteration to the furler/forestay interface is a recipe for emptying your wallet, quickly.
Jonathan
You could extend your bow roller and make what seems to be called a 'drop nose' bow roller to which Tranona refers. They don't extended the measured length of you yacht as they 'sort of' fold up. You could of course remove the existing bow roller and add a new longer bow roller or a new drop nose bow roller but extending the current roller is but one option.
Go and look at bow rollers, google first up, and then visit chandlers or your local marina for ideas. You could simply have made a 'U' shaped extension which will 'push' the roller out and your anchor shank will then move from the vertical to the horizontal a short distance forward - and thus clear the furler. The extension could be simply bolted to the existing roller.
A marine stainless fabricator will have been exposed to this problem in the past - you are not alone.
An alternative is to stop retrieval 'just' before the anchor arrives at the bow roller and then retrieve by hand. You will then have a length of slack chain and need a short strop and chain hook to hold the anchor against the bow roller - this procedure means you are not over stressing the windlass as the anchor passes over the bow roller. Deployment is the opposite, release the hook on the strop, have the anchor dangling freely and then deploy as usual. It also means you are not using the windlass to hold the anchor when at sea (which again stresses the windlass, unnecessarily). The same short strop and chain hook can be used as a 'snubber' for the anchor when deployed and then the windlass takes no snatch loads, they are taken by the strop, though you will of course be using a proper nylon snubber, and the strop is simply the back up.
Here is a picture, you need to use your imagination to convert to your bow roller.
The windlass is to the right and the bow roller to the left. The anchor has been retrieved from just below the roller by hand and then secured with a short strop and chain hook, leaving some slack chain. The anchor is now secured independent of the windlass and retained by the strop attached to a strong point (could be a horn bow cleat, in this case the aft end of the bow roller).
Its cheap and simple (you could add the strop and hook in 30 minutes) - but you need to alter your anchor handling procedures.
Making any alteration to the furler/forestay interface is a recipe for emptying your wallet, quickly.
Jonathan
Neeves
Well-known member
This an option but the rod will abrade the chain reducing its life. Another. option is to have a polymer roller 'over' the chain - maybe through Dunedin's suggested rod.
Jonathan
Sandy
Well-known member
Hello and welcome to the forum.
I upgraded the bow roller to this then changing to a modern anchor. It gives far more protection to the hull.
I upgraded the bow roller to this then changing to a modern anchor. It gives far more protection to the hull.
bluerm166
Well-known member
here's the actual installtn. after the pdf in #6 .
It's the Lewmar ........0008 which is only 80 wide which helps and would be about half the price of a custom .
