checking cone clutch

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colliemcc

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I have a problem since last year with my boat going into forward.
If i move the lever into forward at a normal rate it will rev high before going into gear and because of the high rpm it goes in with a clunk.
If I move the lever into forward position and wait maybe 30 seconds it will go into gear or if not i will move it a bit more forward and raise the revs by 100-200 rpm and then it will go into gear.
I think this is the cone clutch problem????
How can I check this.
Also is this a big and expensive job?

04 Volvo penta 4.3 GL-D
Sx outdrive


Thanks Colm
 
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Could be you just need an adjustment on the cables. I had a related problem some years ago and a cable had slipped. Mine was a Merc BII though.
 
I have the cable adjusted out to the last.. One thing I did last year after reading some where was to select reverse and turn the prob in each direction. The prob would lock in one direction straight away. But when forward is selected it prob turns nearly a full revolution before it locks. It said that it should lock straight away in forward or reverse.
Colm
 
From memory at the time, I think we took the whole cable(s) off (disconnected it all) and checked the movement and how free it was, then we reconnected it and adjusted it all up. The problem was solved. If you have exhausted the cable options and can't adjust the issue out then you have another problem which could be the cone clutch perhaps. Perhaps one of the Engineers on here could advise best courses of action - be patient, I am sure one will be along soon.
 
The symptoms sound just like a cone clutch issue. I have changed just the cone in the past but would always changing the cups also. It's a job for an experienced engineer as there is plenty of shiming that has to be spot on!
 
Def get an engineer to do it and be glad you don't have a mid 90's bravo 2 as for them if they need a new cone you need new gears to as merc have superseded it.
 
"If i move the lever into forward at a normal rate it will rev high before going into gear and because of the high rpm it goes in with a clunk."

Well that's not right, you don't want an increase in RPM whilst going into gears, on a Merc outdrive there is a microswitch that cuts the RPM, yes I know you have a VP outdrive.

Now I am no expert on the SX leg but I think I am safe to say a worn cone won't increase engine RPM, I myself would be looking at the cable set up as it seems the throttle is moving before you have fully engaged gear. You may of course even have a similar set up to the merc out drive, I would have a look but my manuals are at work - sorry.

Let us know how you get on,even if it is to tell me I was talking bo!!ocks
 
When I move the lever forward. It won't engage forward until the revs increase sometimes it goes in at tick over if I keep the lever l in the same position for a long period. Its like it in forward but its waiting to find a biting point witch eventually happen after about 15 to 30 seconds. Its very hard to explain.

Thanks for the replies
 
Peanuts said:
Well that's not right, you don't want an increase in RPM whilst going into gears, on a Merc outdrive there is a microswitch that cuts the RPM, yes I know you have a VP outdrive.
Click to expand...
The switch cuts the the ignition when you are taking the engine out of gear when the boat is in the water. This is because the Alpha outdrive has a dog clutch and you have to cut the power to dis-engage it under load.

This is also why the Alphas clunk when they go in gear - the upside is they don't slip like a cone clutch.
 
It sounds exactly like a worn cone. Check cables when replacing a cone as poorly adjusted gear cables can cause this. Also don't be fooled that when you run the engine and select gear with the boat out of the water that the prop spins immediately. They do this!
 
When the prop rotation is restricted by water the prop turns slowly until the cone bites.

You could sometimes get away with lapping in the cone with valve grinding paste.
 
how do can I get in and have a look and put in sum of the stuff you speak off.
Do I take of the plate with the shift shoe on it in the picture att. by removing the 4 bolts

The pic is one of the net and not mine as there is oil leaking from this one..

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/THpyQdU1wMI/AAAAAAAAKyo/j0djRuY_sYA/_MG_2917.jpg
_MG_2917.jpg
 
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Before getting into the costs of a drive strip down, if it's the original shift cable, then I'd recomend changing it; with a TFXtreme cable. It made an astounding difference to the shift quality on my 2004 boat (With DPS drive, the same upper unit as the SX). There is an adjustment on both the outdrive and shfter end,

Graham
 
You need to remove the top section of the drive, remove the universal joint and gear, remove the top cover, remove the selector, then draw out the forward and reverse gears along with the cups and cone all on the vertical shaft.

This really should not be attempted unless you really know what you are doing, Get it wrong and it could cost you thousands!
 
I'm not gonna tackle my self but I was gonna open the four bolts on the shift plate and look in and put the grease stuff that aquatom is talkin about. So will it be ok to open that up with out touching the centre bolt that it attached to the shift shoe. As I've read not to go near that.
 
DO NOT DO THAT!!!!!

Lapping or grinding in cones is not a DIY option.you can't get at the "C"ones without stripping the top box
The basic operation is the same for most Volvo mech transmissions.
 
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