cheaper large instrument displays - mast mount

Most mast displays are attached to a aluminium bracket which the displays are mounted on which should provide isolation

I don't think that aluminium is the final housing solution and would prefer a abs type housing, there is at least 1 premium instruments manufacturer that used aluminium for their housings that seem to suffer from corrosion and subsequently waterproof issues.

The teko housings are a starting point for further investigations, I do have a cad drawing of a couple of designs and are still talking to a number of suppliers.

Do you have a preference in looks, there seems to be a few, industrial raymarine (st60) understated b&g, plain nke, oddly shaped tacktick etc

It would be get to get some feedback on the look that people like, what will suit their current instruments etc
 
The rs display arrived today... Now to work put how the heck I connect it all up..are the pins listed in the last version of the source code I have correct?

I don't want to connect it all up and explode it before I get to try the freezer and toaster first ( I did order 2 lcd's, so that at least 1 can be destructively tested)
 
as far as looks are concerned, I don't mind. Square / rectangular perhaps better than circular. The only external design suggestion is that there should be no snags for ropes and halyards to catch on the cabling entry or e.g. external hinges.
 
ShaunG said:
The rs display arrived today... Now to work put how the heck I connect it all up..are the pins listed in the last version of the source code I have correct?

I don't want to connect it all up and explode it before I get to try the freezer and toaster first ( I did order 2 lcd's, so that at least 1 can be destructively tested)
Click to expand...

No, not the same as the last version of the source code. That was for the 128x64 display which has a different hardware driver chip. I'll post some details later.

You need to figure out how you are going to connect to the display. I solder a SIL connector to the display and poke it into a breadboard. You will also need a 10k pot for contrast control. Have you got one of those?

You can test the contrast control first by doing these connections...

Vdd to +5V (there's a 5V output pin on the Disco board that I use)
Vss to 0V

Measure the volts you see between Vss and Vout. It should be about -18V.

Connect a 10K pot with the end connections to Vdd and Vout and the middle wiper connection to Vo. Wiggle the pot. Somewhere you should see the display go all black as contrast is turned up to maximum. Turn it back down until the blackness just fades to nothing.

Measure the volts at this point between Vss and Vo. It will probably be about -15V. This negative voltage control is the part I have not got a solution for yet until my new op-amps turn up to try.
 
I guess a quick trip to maplins on the way home tomorrow will turn up a 10k pot, or see what I can pinch from unused toys around the house, I have a bunch of resistors, caps, max232 etc from my previous rs shopping spree

I was planning to get soldering and solder to each hole on the connector board, it looks pretty fiddly but just about doable, ( i was planning to use something like an old parallel cable) unless there is a much easier way

I figured the code would be different, on re reading your post it seems like I need to get my hands on a sil connector or two
 
ShaunG said:
I guess a quick trip to maplins on the way home tomorrow will turn up a 10k pot, or see what I can pinch from unused toys around the house, I have a bunch of resistors, caps, max232 etc from my previous rs shopping spree

I was planning to get soldering and solder to each hole on the connector board, it looks pretty fiddly but just about doable, ( i was planning to use something like an old parallel cable) unless there is a much easier way

I figured the code would be different, on re reading your post it seems like I need to get my hands on a sil connector or two
Click to expand...

You can use a ribbon cable if you like, but then you need to figure out how to connect the other end to the Disco board's SIL connector. That's why I use 2 of these for the Disco board...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Breadboar...al_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item1e7387f41d

and this on the LCD display, as once soldered on it pokes straight into the breadboard...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pin-Heade...al_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item35c1415b28

To connect it all up you need solid core cable as stranded doesn't work in the breadboard very well. By YAPP tradition, the wire should all be brown :)

The type of 0.1" pitch connector you have is easy to connect to which is why I suggested this display originally. If your display has a connector like this...

R5327316-99.jpg


then straight away an assembled PCB is needed with a tiny surface mount socket that is almost impossible to solder on by hand.
 
Last edited:
Looks like I have got lucky :)

I have a breadboard with the discover board on and 5v wired to the power rails from the disco board...I am afraid I am breaking the rules :( my wire is blue solid core

The LCD is the display tech one referenced at the start from rs, I have ordered 20 sil connectors (20 pins on each) with a 2.54mm pitch (taken from the data sheet of the display)

Guess I had better get some brown cable or I can't be part of the club :p
 
Once you have got the contrast working and figured out how to make your connections, then connect like this...

C/D PC8
RD PC9
WR PC10
RESET PC11
CE 0V
FS 0V
FG 0V

DB0 to DB7 PC0 to PC7
A and K not connected yet (backlight)
 
Thanks Angus..I will start connecting up as soon as the sil connectors turn up...finally got round to posting my first pic...not used breadboard mfor a while and had to get my meter out last week to remind myself which way it was wired :) ( as you can tell I have not done any of this since college many many years ago)
 
The driver code that interacts with the display using the port C pins is shown below. That's all there is. All the code above this level is just window dressing and fluff.

#define X_MAX 239
#define Y_MAX 127
#define BYTES_PER_ROW ((X_MAX+1)/8)
#define G_BASE 0x1000

static uint8_t screen_buffer[((X_MAX+1)*(Y_MAX+1))/8];

static void lcd_send_command(uint8_t c)
{
// write data byte
GPIO_SetBits(GPIOC, c);
c=~c;
GPIO_ResetBits(GPIOC, c);

// /WR=0
GPIO_ResetBits(GPIOC, GPIO_Pin_10);

// /WR=1
GPIO_SetBits(GPIOC, GPIO_Pin_10);
}

static void lcd_send_data(uint8_t d)
{
// write data byte
GPIO_SetBits(GPIOC, d);
d=~d;
GPIO_ResetBits(GPIOC, d);

// C/D=0
GPIO_ResetBits(GPIOC, GPIO_Pin_8);
// /WR=0
GPIO_ResetBits(GPIOC, GPIO_Pin_10);
// /WR=1
GPIO_SetBits(GPIOC, GPIO_Pin_10);
// C/D=1
GPIO_SetBits(GPIOC, GPIO_Pin_8);
}

void lcd_init(void)
{
GPIO_InitTypeDef GPIO_InitStructure;

RCC_APB2PeriphClockCmd(RCC_APB2Periph_GPIOC, ENABLE);

GPIO_InitStructure.GPIO_Mode=GPIO_Mode_Out_PP;
GPIO_InitStructure.GPIO_Speed=GPIO_Speed_50MHz;

GPIO_InitStructure.GPIO_Pin=
GPIO_Pin_0 | GPIO_Pin_1 | GPIO_Pin_2 | GPIO_Pin_3 |
GPIO_Pin_4 | GPIO_Pin_5 | GPIO_Pin_6 | GPIO_Pin_7 |
GPIO_Pin_8 | GPIO_Pin_9 | GPIO_Pin_10 | GPIO_Pin_11;
GPIO_Init(GPIOC, &GPIO_InitStructure);

// /WR=1
GPIO_WriteBit(GPIOC, GPIO_Pin_10, Bit_SET);
// C/D=1
GPIO_WriteBit(GPIOC, GPIO_Pin_8, Bit_SET);
// /RD=1
GPIO_WriteBit(GPIOC, GPIO_Pin_9, Bit_SET);

// reset lcd
GPIO_WriteBit(GPIOC, GPIO_Pin_11, Bit_RESET);
delay_ms(10);
GPIO_WriteBit(GPIOC, GPIO_Pin_11, Bit_SET);

lcd_send_data(G_BASE%256);
lcd_send_data(G_BASE>>8);
lcd_send_command(0x42);
lcd_send_data(BYTES_PER_ROW);
lcd_send_data(0);
lcd_send_command(0x43); // bytes per graphics line
lcd_send_command(0x80); // mode set: Graphics OR
lcd_send_command(0x98); // Graphics ON, Text OFF
}

void lcd_update_display(void)
{
uint16_t i;

lcd_send_data(G_BASE%256);
lcd_send_data(G_BASE>>8);
lcd_send_command(0x24);

for (i=0; i<BYTES_PER_ROW*(Y_MAX+1); i++)
{
lcd_send_data(screen_buffer);
lcd_send_command(0xc0);
}
}
Click to expand...


I don't bother with checking the status byte before each write as described in the datasheet. It seems unnecessary and just slows things down.
 
AngusMcDoon said:
If your display has a connector like this...

R5327316-99.jpg


then straight away an assembled PCB is needed with a tiny surface mount socket that is almost impossible to solder on by hand.
Click to expand...

Tell me about it!

I've spent most of the day sorting out connection problems with a 50 way, 0.5mm pitch FPC connector on a LCD.
 
Sparkfun do have a bit of a reputation for encouraging rather cavillier treatment of circuit boards! I read one of their articles about removing solder from plated-through holes by heating it up and banging it on the edge of a bench!

Fortunately, I do have some appropriate tools for soldering/desoldering using vacuum and hot-air + a few tricks of my own!
 
Thanks Angus, I will try and get everything connected up and ready for Wednesday, any chance of the latest code version?

Whilst we are at it, any reccomendations on a new solder station, I have an old weller that is not far from its last legs and needs new tips and s good knock to work everytime..I have been very happy with it although eBay now seems to have some cheap £50 - £60 solder, desolder stations..any thoughts on these or just buy a new quality weller?
 
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