cheaper large instrument displays - mast mount

ShaunG said:
Hell yeah...much better to use, easier for the cases (I met with a company today and am awaiting feedback and pricing) kit ordered from eBay
Click to expand...

Gents,

This is a popular thread .. !!

Is it fair to say you're essentially creating a remote repeater display? Capable of parsing NMEA and generating a numerical / pictorial display of said data?
Are you considering other input, for "chart table" remote display? Battery volts, Air pressure, temp (engine//exhaust?) etc etc..?. I have a Cortex M3 development board with an on-board TFT screen.. currently lying idle :) .

I'm doing other stuff using Arduino, since it's widely supported and fairly cheap, but I haven't messed with ARM devices since Acorn days..
Following the story closely... :)

Graeme
 
Hi pagoda,

In essence, yep a nmea repeater on a nice large display (using the Angus measure of ginger nuts its about half a packet with 3.5" digits), easy to use menu, control by remote..

Batt volts included....who knows what else in the future, hopefully we will only be limited by imagination and code space..hope to create the pcb's and housing in a modular way so that it can be upgraded to do more/add new features

All running on a m3 so your most of the way there..
 
AngusMcDoon said:
The remote handset circuit is currently taking 2 mA in standby, which is too much as that will only give a standby life of 1000 hours from 3 AA alkaline batteries. I cat get the processor (a PIC16F26K22) to wake up from idle mode on a button press interrupt, but not sleep mode for some reason.
Click to expand...

Processor now entering and exiting sleep mode and taking 10 microAmps (or microAmps per hour in best forum tradition :p) at 3.3V in standby mode. I haven't got the RF transmitter into its lowest power mode yet so it is still taking 30 microAmps. Not sorted a low quiescent current 3.3V regulator yet either, so I'm measuring current after voltage regulation, not before.

If anybody knows a suitable low-power low-cost DIP package 3.3V regulator (don't need more than a few 10mA even when a button is pressed and transmitting) then let me know.

I reckon I can get the processor cost down by a £ as well by using a 16F883 rather than a 18F26K22.
 
AngusMcDoon said:
Processor now entering and exiting sleep mode and taking 10 microAmps (or microAmps per hour in best forum tradition :p) at 3.3V in standby mode. I haven't got the RF transmitter into its lowest power mode yet so it is still taking 30 microAmps. Not sorted a low quiescent current 3.3V regulator yet either, so I'm measuring current after voltage regulation, not before.

If anybody knows a suitable low-power low-cost DIP package 3.3V regulator (don't need more than a few 10mA even when a button is pressed and transmitting) then let me know.

I reckon I can get the processor cost down by a £ as well by using a 16F883 rather than a 18F26K22.
Click to expand...

Quite... :). I'm all for sparing a few mW, but this display is unlikely to be on 24/7 ??, so changing the boat internal internal incandescent lamps for LED's is going to have appreciably more impact than worrying about the odd 10,20,50mA ? in the real world. ?
Are you talking about switch mode regulation or linear? Can the the system cope with any residual switching/noise? - or just bung in some additional downstream smoothing caps??

you're on about battery remotes..... missed that bit.. How about an on/off switch ? ;-)
 
Last edited:
pagoda said:
Quite... :). I'm all for sparing a few mW, but this display is unlikely to be on 24/7 ??, so changing the boat internal internal incandescent lamps for LED's is going to have appreciably more impact than worrying about the odd 10,20,50mA ? in the real world. ?
Are you talking about switch mode regulation or linear? Can the the system cope with any residual switching/noise? - or just bung in some additional downstream smoothing caps??

you're on about battery remotes..... missed that bit.. How about an on/off switch ? ;-)
Click to expand...

A switch is a possibility, but most remote button devices like TV remotes and car keyfobs do without, so if it's possible it's worth doing. An on/off switch is likely to be left on by mistake.

I don't see a problem with a switching regulator.
 
Tyro Progress

Just got the "Hello World" ie flashing LED working on the discovery board. The biggest problem was finding the software for the ST-Link, which is supose to be on the ST website but they have done a good job of hiding it.
If anyone else is thinking of having a go, so far not to difficult. We will see how the next bit goes when I get a breadboard which I have ordered from ebay.

Link for ST-Link software which includes USB driver

http://stm32-st-link-utility.software.informer.com/download/

Now to see if I can change the flash rate of the LED.!!!
 
Can't help on this one I am afraid..but amazing work..sorry I have been a little quiet, I have some guest from across the pond over from my day job the last 2 weeks and have had to do the host thing.

Now fully back into this...




AngusMcDoon said:
Processor now entering and exiting sleep mode and taking 10 microAmps (or microAmps per hour in best forum tradition :p) at 3.3V in standby mode. I haven't got the RF transmitter into its lowest power mode yet so it is still taking 30 microAmps. Not sorted a low quiescent current 3.3V regulator yet either, so I'm measuring current after voltage regulation, not before.

If anybody knows a suitable low-power low-cost DIP package 3.3V regulator (don't need more than a few 10mA even when a button is pressed and transmitting) then let me know.

I reckon I can get the processor cost down by a £ as well by using a 16F883 rather than a 18F26K22.
Click to expand...
 
Congratulations Tom...really pleased to hear you are about to catch up :) pretty sure you will be celebrating the first time you see the display boot up :)


Tom_Brewis said:
Just got the "Hello World" ie flashing LED working on the discovery board. The biggest problem was finding the software for the ST-Link, which is supose to be on the ST website but they have done a good job of hiding it.
If anyone else is thinking of having a go, so far not to difficult. We will see how the next bit goes when I get a breadboard which I have ordered from ebay.

Link for ST-Link software which includes USB driver

http://stm32-st-link-utility.software.informer.com/download/

Now to see if I can change the flash rate of the LED.!!!
Click to expand...
 
Below is posted the modified code for the STM32F100RB discovery board

// These settings are for the STM32F100RB

#include "stm32f10x_gpio.h"
#include "stm32f10x_rcc.h"

int main(void)
{
GPIO_InitTypeDef GPIO_InitStructure;
int i;

// The Pins for the Green and Blue LEDs are on the C channel therefore
// in the line below GPIOB needs to be changed to GPIOC as below

RCC_APB2PeriphClockCmd(RCC_APB2Periph_GPIOC, ENABLE); // *
GPIO_InitStructure.GPIO_Speed = GPIO_Speed_50MHz;
GPIO_InitStructure.GPIO_Mode = GPIO_Mode_Out_PP;
GPIO_InitStructure.GPIO_Pin = GPIO_Pin_All ;
GPIO_Init(GPIOC, &GPIO_InitStructure); // *

while(1)
{
GPIO_WriteBit(GPIOC, GPIO_Pin_9, Bit_SET); // * This is the Green LED it is PC9 Pin C Channel Number 9
for (i=0; i<1000000; i++);
GPIO_WriteBit(GPIOC, GPIO_Pin_9, Bit_RESET); // *
for (i=0; i<1000000; i++);
GPIO_WriteBit(GPIOC, GPIO_Pin_8, Bit_SET); // * This is the Blue LED it is PC8
for (i=0; i<1000000; i++);
GPIO_WriteBit(GPIOC, GPIO_Pin_8, Bit_RESET); // *
for (i=0; i<1000000; i++);
}
}

//...and compile again with F7.
// ...then Flash-Program Download and if all well Green and Blue LEDs should flash alternatly

With much help from Shaun
 
Anyone trying to build the code should use CoIDE version 1.5.1 rather than 1.6.0 as the previously mentioned memory problems reappear. I believe this is to do with a new system for handling the build using a master XML file rather than link.ld and memory.ld so an expansion of build.xml
 
Last edited:
As my software and hardware design now seems to have started circulating beyond my control I think it's a good time to make it clear the terms under which I release it. It is released under the Free Software Foundation terms...

http://fsf.org

Free in this case means free to modify and re-distribute as long as the conditions are complied with. It does not necessarily mean that it will be free as in price.

The latest code contains a library that is released under similar terms and conditions by Brennan Ball.

Legal claptrap over. :)
 
Last edited:
AngusMcDoon said:
As my software and hardware design now seems to have started circulating beyond my control I think it's a good time to make it clear the terms under which I release it. It is released under the Free Software Foundation terms...

http://fsf.org

Free in this case means free to modify and re-distribute as long as the conditions are complied with. It does not necessarily mean that it will be free as in price.

The latest code contains a library that is released under similar terms and conditions by Brennan Ball.

Legal claptrap over. :)
Click to expand...

Not being particularly up to speed on copyright issues (and no my computer does not have any ripped-off programmes/software on it !), I'm not sure what the implications (if any) of this posting is?
Are you saying that there are now financial implications for using the software for this project, or that we need to comply with the fsf.org quidelines for distribution/acknowledgement purposes?
 
Jabamusic said:
Not being particularly up to speed on copyright issues (and no my computer does not have any ripped-off programmes/software on it !), I'm not sure what the implications (if any) of this posting is?
Are you saying that there are now financial implications for using the software for this project, or that we need to comply with the fsf.org quidelines for distribution/acknowledgement purposes?
Click to expand...

No financial implications for using the software. I allow people to use it for free. FSF license also allows others to make commercial gain from it if they want. What I don't want is for a commercial organisation to take the software, claim it is their property, and prevent me or anyone else from using it or having the option of gaining commercial advantage from it in the future. This has happened in the past and is one of the things the FSF tries to prevent.

Yes, you do need to comply with FSF guidelines. That mostly means that you must redistribute any source with the original license notice, and if you make any enhancements, that must also be open source. What you cannot do is prevent anyone from using the software in their own projects.

It's just standard stuff to stop Big Business being evil. It won't affect anyone's tinkering here.
 
Hi Angus

Thanks very much for the reminder, I am not big business and I am tinkering along to learn what is going on. I am very grateful that you are allowing your intellectual property to be shared as without this I would not have a hope in building anything.
I have never done this sort of electronic project before and am thoroughly enjoying the challenge.

Thank you very much

All the best

Tom
 
Jabamusic said:
oh good, i like that !
Click to expand...

Here's an example of how it works...

I have incorporated Brennan Ball's RF module driver.
I have acknowledged that I have.
I have modified his code to run on the STM32, so I republish that, leaving in his license/copyright headers.
He does not stop me making a commercial product using his code if I want to.
I don't try to claim ownership of his code or prevent him from doing what he likes with it.
We are all happy and the world is a better place.

Simples! Well, maybe not the last one. :)
 
Sorry, only just getting to speed - having been deprived of internet access for nerly 3 weeks - due to hopelrss BT!

On the subject of the wireless remote - when I made mine, the haredware concept was similar - low-power PIC that spent most time asleep and a ready-built transmitter module. I used a 3.3(ish) volt "button" cell to power the PIC and transmitter direct - neither device seems particularly fussy about supply voltage, so no regulator required. I included a transistor so the PIC could switch the transmitter on when needed. Battery life with the PIC waking up to transmit roughly every couple of seconds was about 6 months, but with the usage expected on this project, I would expect it to last foe several years before the battery needed changing. I also included a voltage monitor (using the PIC ADC) so the remote could report if the battery was getting low.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Other threads that may be of interest

Y
The Seafarer 700 and NASA clipper sounders saga
Replies
10
Views
442
Dellquay13
Dellquay13

Share this page

Top