Cheap wind generator charge regulator?

I have a Rutland 910, 12 volt and need to buy a regulator that will dump via a heat sink, not brake system, can any body offer advice where to buy and what. I have the old heat sink but water has destroyed the eltectric bitts
 
This thread seems to be near to what my problem is so I have tacked on to it even though its 6 months + old.

Being a complete electric numpty I need the assistance of the worldly electrically wise out there to comfirm and explain that I can achieve the following and how:-
This winters job is to install a wind gen (so that I can keep the butter hard through the summer sailing in a cool box). To that end I have bought a second hand and tested Aerogen 2 along with its attendant regulator and coiled wire heat sink green thingy which I believe is to protect the battery from boiling when it reaches full charge.

I will have a dedicated battery which will power the coolbox and I would like to be able to switch the wind gen to charge the house battery instead so that it replenishes that with volts which of course is used for the instruments and radio etc etc should I not have the need for the coolbox. To that end I have a double pole double throw switch which I intend to use to switch between the two batteries. The engine start battery will not feature in connecting to the wind gen or coolbox.

What has confused me is the connection of the regulator, which I assume needs also to be regulating the house battery when the switch is changed over (and I forget to turn back to the fridge battery when I leave the boat). It has occurred to me that to prevent the wind regulator receiving the alternator output, should I start the engine without changing the double pole switch over (which is a possibility/probability) then will I create a fire risk by pushing 70 amps from the alternator into the regulator and therefore heating the dissipator coil.

I feel I am waffling now so maybe the attached diagram may explain what I want to do and any suggestions (not too technical please) would be appreciated.

P1310101.jpg
 
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This thread seems to be near to what my problem is so I have tacked on to it even though its 6 months + old.

Being a complete electric numpty I need the assistance ............................................

I feel I am waffling now so maybe the attached diagram may explain what I want to do and any suggestions (not too technical please) would be appreciated.

Please check what type of regulator you have.

I deduce from your post it may be one like this http://www.xylemflowcontrol.com/files/2sb-4sb instructions.pdf

Please note it says, "This regulator should NOT be used if you have any other form of charging system connected to the battery ie. Mains charger/ shore power, engine driven alternator.
THESE REGULATORS ARE NOT SUITABLE FOR YACHT INSTALLATIONS"

Thre are regulators suitable for yacht installations including twin battery installations hence the need to check which one you have
 
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Yep it sure is one of them. I down loaded from the LVM web site but never got that document. By providing me with that you may have saved me and my boat. Many thanks.

So the next stage is I have a whirly thing that will put out Volts/Amps etc so what regulator do I need? All info gratefully received.
 
Yep it sure is one of them. I down loaded from the LVM web site but never got that document. By providing me with that you may have saved me and my boat. Many thanks.

So the next stage is I have a whirly thing that will put out Volts/Amps etc so what regulator do I need? All info gratefully received.

Quick reply

One of the twin battery installation ones as far as I can see. If you want you can connect it up to charge one battery by connecting the two outputs together

http://www.xylemflowcontrol.com/files/2tb-4tb instructions.pdf


See also http://www.xylemflowcontrol.com/files/lvm regulator selection guide.pdf
 
How does dump load work on that David? Probably need one of these?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-600W-...21121856917?pt=UK_Gadgets&hash=item4ac45aad95

But that is included in the kit I posted.

Every output sine wave is regulated by a Zenner diode or diodes. If single phase there will be one, three phase three.

I believe they are called " chopper " diodes. The voltage above the diode setting-14.7v ish-is directed back into the winding where the magnetism caused by this redirection interferes with the permanent magnet poles so diluting the output to the Zenner diode setting.

It is how early Motorcycle 12v Regulator Rectifiers work anyway.

It is an oversimplified description but I believe it to be basically correct.

If its not I'm sure someone who knows will put me right...............................
 
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