pvb
Well-Known Member
Maybe, but you can buy Hall-effect sensors to give, say, 0 - 1V out for 0 - 100A through, which is pretty easy to incorporate in stuff.
But almost all meters and monitors are built for 50mV shunts.
Maybe, but you can buy Hall-effect sensors to give, say, 0 - 1V out for 0 - 100A through, which is pretty easy to incorporate in stuff.
But almost all meters and monitors are built for 50mV shunts.
Yes, we're violently agreeing as they say. A shunt is contraption where you create two parallel routes for the current, in a known ratio eg 99:1 or 99,999:1 or whatever. You then know that the current in the high resistance leg is 1/100,000th (say) of the current in the other leg. You take your measurements on the high resistance leg (by measuring volt drop) but you print the card in the voltmeter to read what you deduce are the amps in the main leg. Yes JD, the high resistance leg is actually the meter itself; I forgot that, but it doesn't change the principle nor does it change what I'm saying which is that Vic's 20amps mathematics is wrong and there is no energy consumed in a shuntThe high resistance thing is the meter, and the low resistance thing is the shunt. They are wired in parallel, so the voltage across them is the same (less a tiny, tiny drop in the wires from shunt to meter). A traditional moving coil meter is typically 1mA full scale deflection, so if you want it to measure 100A you need to arrange for 1mA to go through the meter when 99.999A is going through the shunt, so you need a shunt with a resistance 1/99999 times that of the meter.
In practice, the meter has no effect .... 99999 = 100000 for all practical purposes.
See above. All shunts work on the principle of creating two parallel legs, of known relative resistance, but as JD corrected me one of those legs is the meter coil so you don't "see it". There should be no 20Amps factor when VicS was calculating energy consumption, because the 20Amps is the current passing thru the low resistance leg and shouldn't therefore be in the calculation. A shunt doesn't consume energyI don't recognise your description of a shunt. All the shunts I've ever seen on boats have all the current passing through, and don't have a "high resistance leg". The voltage drop is masured across the whole shunt, not just part of it.
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Vic, I'm rusty so I'll happily stand corrected,
...nor does it change what I'm saying which is that Vic's 20amps mathematics is wrong and there is no energy consumed in a shunt
In reply to both the above posts you are assuming the X section/resistance of the shunt is smaller than the resistance of the 2 inches of wire you've chopped out to insert the shunt. I don't know that it is generally, and it need not be. If it isn't, there isn't any bottleneck, and therefore as I said there is zero energy consumption/conversion to heat. If there is a bottleneck it's because you chose too small a shunt; you cannot blame that energy loss intrinsically on using a shunt. In other words the 1 watt heat conversion above would happen with the same 2 inches of wire if you never inserted the shunt, so is not attributable to the shunt, if you choose a non bottlenecking shunt.
Let's imagine that you knew that 2 inches of wire had a resistance 100,000th of your voltmeter using the specs above. You could press the voltmeter probes thru the power wire insulation, 2 inches apart, and with the right printed amps card in the meter you would get a reading of amps flowing thru the power wire. That is, as I know you know, a shunt. No way would that consume any energy or make more heat. It would actually reduce the circuit's total resistance by a very small amount indeed, so saving you energy consumption
... it doesn't change the principle nor does it change what I'm saying which is that Vic's 20amps mathematics is wrong and there is no energy consumed in a shunt
If it isn't, there isn't any bottleneck, and therefore as I said there is zero energy consumption/conversion to heat.
Let's imagine that you knew that 2 inches of wire had a resistance 100,000th of your voltmeter using the specs above. You could press the voltmeter probes thru the power wire insulation, 2 inches apart, and with the right printed amps card in the meter you would get a reading of amps flowing thru the power wire. That is, as I know you know, a shunt. No way would that consume any energy or make more heat. It would actually reduce the circuit's total resistance by a very small amount indeed, so saving you energy consumption
In reply to both the above posts you are assuming the X section/resistance of the shunt is smaller than the resistance of the 2 inches of wire you've chopped out to insert the shunt. I don't know that it is generally, and it need not be. If it isn't, there isn't any bottleneck, and therefore as I said there is zero energy consumption/conversion to heat. If there is a bottleneck it's because you chose too small a shunt; you cannot blame that energy loss intrinsically on using a shunt. In other words the 1 watt heat conversion above would happen with the same 2 inches of wire if you never inserted the shunt, so is not attributable to the shunt, if you choose a non bottlenecking shunt.
Let's imagine that you knew that 2 inches of wire had a resistance 100,000th of your voltmeter using the specs above. You could press the voltmeter probes thru the power wire insulation, 2 inches apart, and with the right printed amps card in the meter you would get a reading of amps flowing thru the power wire. That is, as I know you know, a shunt. No way would that consume any energy or make more heat. It would actually reduce the circuit's total resistance by a very small amount indeed, so saving you energy consumption
In reply to both the above posts you are assuming the X section/resistance of the shunt is smaller than the resistance of the 2 inches of wire you've chopped out to insert the shunt. I don't know that it is generally, and it need not be. If it isn't, there isn't any bottleneck, and therefore as I said there is zero energy consumption/conversion to heat. If there is a bottleneck it's because you chose too small a shunt; you cannot blame that energy loss intrinsically on using a shunt. In other words the 1 watt heat conversion above would happen with the same 2 inches of wire if you never inserted the shunt, so is not attributable to the shunt, if you choose a non bottlenecking shunt.
Let's imagine that you knew that 2 inches of wire had a resistance 100,000th of your voltmeter using the specs above. You could press the voltmeter probes thru the power wire insulation, 2 inches apart, and with the right printed amps card in the meter you would get a reading of amps flowing thru the power wire. That is, as I know you know, a shunt. No way would that consume any energy or make more heat. It would actually reduce the circuit's total resistance by a very small amount indeed, so saving you energy consumption
If he is really worried about that watt he could fit a Hall-effect current sensor around the wire and lose nothing at all when the meter is off. Beat me why yachting people still use 'orrible crude shunts anyway.
We don't, have supplied hall effect shunts since 1990.
Anyone know where I can get a relatively cheap single pole double throw switch that is make before break? Needs to be able to handle about 20amps at 12v, and I'm not fussy about whether it is a toggle, push button, rotary switch or whatever.
Everything I can see that is relatively cheap seems to be BBM.
Thanks