Chargers, Inverters and Combi's - In need of a complete solution

[crossy]

Yes, all my batts are connected using remote latching solenoids with manual overrides. Not Blue Sea. They're excellent. It means you can isolate from the helm yet keep high current cables short. This is standard OEM Fairline fit out.
Then I have the remote Blue Seas (without man override) for my underwater lights (which draw 60amps at 24v on full blast) and they're excellent relays, and feel like they're of very high quality. Reassuringly expensive. Only downside is the ugly Carling control switch that comes in the box but you can bin that and replace with a nicer halo-LED touch switch or similar.

Regarding your batteries, I don't see the problem in relying on the combining solenoid. They work ok. It's best to wire it so the relay coil can be powered from either batter with port battery (in your case) as the default.

Thanks for the info JFM.
I have used Blue Seas buzz bars and the like in the past and always found them high quality (though deffinately not cheap) and reassuring to know manufacturers like Fairline also use this setup. It will be great to remove the miles of 70amp cable this I currently have criss-crossing the engine room!

That is a good idea to be able to power the solenoid from either bank, i hadn't thought of that. Sods law after wiring in the combine solenoid to defend against the domestics flattening the starboard bank that I actually manage to flatten the port bank somehow......

 

[BartW]

the Victron Cyrix is a solonoid for bridging battery's
available in 120A, 250A or 400A version,
can work automatic
(when voltage on one side is >13V from a charger, and other batt is NOT V<12V it engages,)
and can be controlled manually from a switch aswell...

I have that in my 28ft boat between the 2 battery's ( batt1= SB engine / batt2 = P engine & domestic & multiplus)
the cyrix engages when the multiplus has shore power,
and or when one of the engines/alternators is running