bigwow
Well-Known Member
Anybody know the procedure for changing the oil seal on the bottom of Volvo 120 saildrive. I've got as far as taking off the prop!
Changing the oil seal on a 120 Volvo saildrive
- Thread starter bigwow
- Start date
Dipper
Well-Known Member
There is some information in this thread .
You need to remove the anode. This exposes the bearing housing which is held in by two allen headed bolts (replacement torque 25 Nm). Assuming your oil is drained, removing these two bolts allows the bearing housing to be pulled off - the shaft may also come/fall out so don't drop it on concrete!
There are two oil seals in the housing that fit around the shaft facing opposite ways, presumably one to keep the oil in and one to keep the water out. There are also two large 'O' rings in the housing face for the same purpose.
The slightly difficult bit is removing the seals (and bearing) and pressing new ones in without damaging them. You may also need to add some shims when refitting. If you are worried about this you could take the unit to an engineering firm as it shouldn't be a long (expensive) job for a professional to do this. Although I did mine myself some years ago, I wasn't very happy with my technique fitting the new seals in (they are quite tight) and I would probably take the housing along to a professional next time.
Before you start, are you sure it is one of these seals that is faulty? It might just be the washer on the drain plug.
You need to remove the anode. This exposes the bearing housing which is held in by two allen headed bolts (replacement torque 25 Nm). Assuming your oil is drained, removing these two bolts allows the bearing housing to be pulled off - the shaft may also come/fall out so don't drop it on concrete!
There are two oil seals in the housing that fit around the shaft facing opposite ways, presumably one to keep the oil in and one to keep the water out. There are also two large 'O' rings in the housing face for the same purpose.
The slightly difficult bit is removing the seals (and bearing) and pressing new ones in without damaging them. You may also need to add some shims when refitting. If you are worried about this you could take the unit to an engineering firm as it shouldn't be a long (expensive) job for a professional to do this. Although I did mine myself some years ago, I wasn't very happy with my technique fitting the new seals in (they are quite tight) and I would probably take the housing along to a professional next time.
Before you start, are you sure it is one of these seals that is faulty? It might just be the washer on the drain plug.
AIDY
Well-Known Member
yup agree with above. but did not find it too hard to press the seals in. our vp 120 had stefa seals in (SP) was charged a fortune for them at the vp dealer. next time i will be down our local motor factors / bearing seal factor. they can only be a couple of quid each.
theotter
Well-Known Member
Dipper's "removing these two bolts allows the bearing housing to be pulled off" is an over simplification in my experience. It was the most brutal bit of engineering I have witnessed. It was prop back on and some serious twatting with a lump of timber before it would budge. Be prepared if you haven't done the job yet.
bigwow
Well-Known Member
Did both saidrives this week-end, don't know what I was worried about, just like doing a car wheel bearing. Bearing housing came off easily with a little help from the trusty copper hammer. Hardest job was waiting for the oil to fill through the top bearing!
