Changing saildrive prop shaft seals

Hi, just changed the oil/water seals on my ms25s saildrive. When you say The shaft needs to be turnable by hand with a little resistance and with no noticeable play on the bearings, there is no play on the bearings but not sure if the resistance on the shaft is too much. Can turn it by hand but more than a little resistance. Have reused the existing shims and outer bearing race. Any thoughts welcome. Thanks.
It's a rather old thread but if you have replaced all the shims exactly as you found them and have only changed the lip seals, then you cannot have done anything wrong and the seals will wear in. It is better to have lip seals which are a little too tight rather than a little too loose.

Richard
 
Just one point of clarification; the seals are fitted back to back and rely on a fine fit on the shaft. When you've got the gear out (mine did need a puller) check the shaft for wear in the way of the seals. There are specialists who can deal with any irregularities and so ensure the oil does not escape when it's all put together.

For info, my seals lasted 10 years before failure (slow leak - which is normal) I don't think there's any point in anticipating failure and I know of no life specification - as with the diaphagm ( 7 years, Volvo spec)

PWG
Off thread a bit I know, but I've just replaced the diaphragm on my 120s. Original was from 1982 with no sign of a leak. It was the retaining ring that was rusting after an insidious drip from the engine. Got the ring stripped and re-enamelled as a new one was crazy expensive. All back together with engine drips addressed.
 
It's a rather old thread but if you have replaced all the shims exactly as you found them and have only changed the lip seals, then you cannot have done anything wrong and the seals will wear in. It is better to have lip seals which are a little too tight rather than a little too loose.

Richard
Thanks Richard,
Sandy
 
It was the retaining ring that was rusting after an insidious drip from the engine. Got the ring stripped and re-enamelled as a new one was crazy expensive. All back together with engine drips addressed.
Mine was like that so I wire brushed it and had it powdered coated for around £20.
 
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