Changing Cutless Bearings & Shaft seals - what a horrible job !

This can't be right at all............Shafts are simple, with little or no maintenance required and no expense spent. You must be doing something wrong. I suggest you go back to shaft school and have extra lessons with the head, Mr Oldgit :D
Nah - still not having outdrives. For a shaft driven boat this is its first time in 28 years, not an annual PITA task.

The new PSS seal rotor will be bedded onto heavy duty waterproof grease so the crevice corrosion won't recur once the shaft is remediated, although I am checking price for a new shaft.
 
The new PSS seal rotor will be bedded onto heavy duty waterproof grease so the crevice corrosion won't recur once the shaft is remediated

No No No PSS specifically state not to put any petroleum products on the shaft or rotor so as to get onto the carbon stator.

I used washing up liquid to slide the stainless rotor O-rings along my prop shaft.

Out of interest was the crevice corrosion where the stuffing box was located or at any other location i.e cutlass bushes, prop or coupling location.
 
No No No PSS specifically state not to put any petroleum products on the shaft or rotor so as to get onto the carbon stator.

I used washing up liquid to slide the stainless rotor O-rings along my prop shaft.

Out of interest was the crevice corrosion where the stuffing box was located or at any other location i.e cutlass bushes, prop or coupling location.
Ah - thanks for that. I will just use some fairy liquid then.

The crevice corrosion was just where the stuffing box bears. I have had a steady seal drip from the starboard since I have owned the boat, and have noticed the rusty ring and brownish build up below the seal so I suspected there would be some pitting. The port was always a dry running seal, and virtually nil crevice corrosion, just a few very shallow pits.

I have sent details of the shaft to a firm we use for hard chroming and grinding in Trafford Park. Bit of a journey But I know they do a good job, but 2-3mm might be a bit too deep for the chroming process. I will also see about possibly TIG welding the deeper crevices and then chroming the rest after a cleaning cut on the grinder.

I have also put out an enquiry for a new shaft in Duplex stainless 1.4462 (2205) grade.
 
The crevice corrosion was just where the stuffing box bears. I have had a steady seal drip from the starboard since I have owned the boat.

I have always considered that crevice corrosion could be a issue with a stuffing box especially one with a drip.

I did have my stainless rotor move on the shaft so I would recommend a locking ring as I don't like the soft 316 stainless grub screw that will not bight into the shaft.
 
This can't be right at all............Shafts are simple, with little or no maintenance required and no expense spent. You must be doing something wrong. I suggest you go back to shaft school and have extra lessons with the head, Mr Oldgit :D


Yea I know it was £500 odd quid for new shaft, bit rich for my wallet and it might need doing again in another 10 or 15 years. :)
 
Spray weld and grind it and then chrome, any crank shaft refurb will be able to do it, the only issue could be the max length they can do as most are limited to about 1200mm between centres. there is a company in Northampton who can do larger and did a few large compressor cranks for me a few years ago, I will try and remember their name
 
Local machine shop charged me around £140 to cut 1 1/2" inch shaft to length,drill hole for roll pin, taper to 1:16, machine new woodruff key and cut correct thread for a stainless nyloc. All done in a morning.
Total cost including shaft was about £250 with new cutlass. Absolute bargain.
Oops..... forgot a metre of packing from Ebay, add another £10.00.
 
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Port shaft virtually complete except a few tidy up tasks.

Stbd cutless bearings are in ready for the shaft and coupling re-assembly. The cost of remediation of the heavily pitted shaft exceeded that of a new shaft, which was kindly made to pattern against the old shaft by Hamble Propellors.

I have replaced all the UNF nuts & bolts securing the R&D coupling, and made new earthing straps, because failure of one of these directly led to the surface electrolysis on the stbd prop.

I have also replaced all the remaining seacocks with Forespar Marelon. Valve bases and thru hulls all in and mounted just leaving it a few days for the Sikaflex to set off before finally sealing the valves to the thru hulls.

IMG_1384.jpg
 
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Port shaft virtually complete except a few tidy up tasks.

Stbd bearings in ready for the shaft and coupling re-assembly.

I have also replaced all the remaining seacocks with Forespar Marelon. Valve bases and thru hulls all in and mounted just leaving it a few days for the Sikaflex to set off before finally sealing the valves to the thru hulls.

View attachment 82911

Do yourself a favour and fit one of these to stop the PSS rotor moving

Clamp Type Collar Double Split A2 Stainless Steel Shaft Collars 3mm - 100mm | eBay
 
Blimming heck Trev,

Wot a lot of work you've had to do.

I'm having a lift and hold to change leg and engine oil, won't bother with impeller this year as all temps and water pressures are in spec.

Quick wash down of the Silic One then back in for another year..... Job done!

Oh yes, have a shave in mirror finished Enertia prop just for fun...

Outboards are the future and I'm sure you can knock up a suitable bracket for Bodacea...

I'll get my coat & hat.
 
Blimming heck Trev,

Wot a lot of work you've had to do.

I'm having a lift and hold to change leg and engine oil, won't bother with impeller this year as all temps and water pressures are in spec.

Quick wash down of the Silic One then back in for another year..... Job done!

Oh yes, have a shave in mirror finished Enertia prop just for fun...

Outboards are the future and I'm sure you can knock up a suitable bracket for Bodacea...

I'll get my coat & hat.
Let me know when you are being lifted as I would like to see how the Silic one has performed.
 
Let me know when you are being lifted as I would like to see how the Silic one has performed.
Should be March time Trev.... Is that too late for your decision? I can bring it forward as I need to fit a new transducer for my echomap plotter Father Christmas brought me....
 
Probably ! I have confirmed the order for the list of Silic One treatments required - primer / tie coat / top coat (2 colours to make the job simpler) / prop treatment. £570 best price achieved, doesn't seem so bad if the stuff works !
 
That's a good price, from memory I paid around £230 for mine but on a 7 metre hull...

I'm hoping that I can just lift and hold for 3 years rather than full lift and block off. Time will tell but pleased so far..
 
Hi Trev!
Can you wait till next season for a new shaft? As you know I've been playing with my shaft rather a lot lately :cautious:. I has crevice corrosion where the rope cutter was attached, but because we removed the R&D coupling to rectify the amount of overhang protruding from the cutlass bearing, I just filled with epoxy. Next year I want to have a new shaft ready to fit and like you am looking at machining from duplex. While I'm at it I can bang you one out too.
 
Hi Trev!
Can you wait till next season for a new shaft? As you know I've been playing with my shaft rather a lot lately :cautious:. I has crevice corrosion where the rope cutter was attached, but because we removed the R&D coupling to rectify the amount of overhang protruding from the cutlass bearing, I just filled with epoxy. Next year I want to have a new shaft ready to fit and like you am looking at machining from duplex. While I'm at it I can bang you one out too.
Thanks for the offer Colin, but I have already bought a new one made to pattern by Hamble Propellors. I installed it with new PSS seal and Cutless Bearings this morning.

If you can use the original shaft please let me know. Its about 2.1m long with the damage about 300mm from one end so ~ 1.8m of decent 1.5" shaft. Yours free if you can use it.

Now just the tidy up jobs to get the hull ready for painting.
 
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