Chain.

ccscott49

ccscott49

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Help required.
I would like to know the weight of 5/8" calibrated chain, per meter or foot, also the weight of 1/2" calibrated. I am about to invest in a complete new anchoring system for my boat and want to have approx the same weight or less of 1/2" chain as I have in 5/8" chain, so it does not affect my trim ballast, if that makes sense! Thanks for any help or pointers. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
I think you will find that 100 ft of 1/2" chain weighs about 300 lbs and the same length of 5/8" chain, about 445 lbs, however, it all depends on whether you use Proof Coil, BBB or High Test chain - all of which can be used on windlasses as long as they are calibrated.
 
Is there much difference in weight between the different chains, more than 10% say? Thanks for you good info!!
 
[ QUOTE ]
100 ft of 1/2" chain weighs about 300 lbs and the same length of 5/8" chain, about 445 lbs

[/ QUOTE ]
Think there is a slight possibility that you have the weights transposed /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 
No I dont think he has, 5/8" is bigger than 1/2" well it was at my school anyway!

Bad case of foot in mouth, lot of it about recently! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
As we are on the subject, may I reveal my ignorance?

What does the 8mm on "8mm chain" refer to? Is it the thickness of the metal which is used to make the links?
Are the links on one 8mm chain always the same as another 8mm chain simply because, at some stage, they have been standardized or for some other reason?

I've always assumed that calibrated chain is made to be exactly right, whereas uncalibrated is more or less "right". But I don't know if that is correct.

Just curious. I've never bought chain, so I've never checked. I don't even know what size chain I have in my locker, but I do know it's OK!
 
8-10-12 etc mm, is the bar size, used to make the chain, the link thickness if you like, calibrated chain, is just that, all the links are the same(ish) so that it will pass over the correct (calibrated) size of windlass gypsy, there is more about calibrated chain, but can't remember what, think it's a shorter link and tested as well. But it is different from normal chain. Bloody expensive as well.!
 
Another consideration...

Another consideration is the make of windlass. Strangely, a calibrated chain which works on one make of windlass may not fit the gypsy of another make of windlass (even if the chain diameter is the same). Last time I bought chain, I took the gypsy off my Lofrans windlass and asked the supplier to match it.
 
Re: Another consideration...

For my own interest how do you tell if chain is calibrated. I got a digital caliper out and checked various bits of chain and it all seemed to be consistent in size.
 
Re: Another consideration...

I suppose it might be possible to check by measuring the link length, link diameter and bar diameter of every link, but it would be a painfully slow process. An easier way would be to try running it over a compatible windlass gypsy.
 
Re: Another consideration...

[ QUOTE ]
I suppose it might be possible to check by measuring the link length, link diameter and bar diameter of every link, but it would be a painfully slow process.

[/ QUOTE ] But maybe worthwhile?

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Re: Another consideration...

8mm chain 1.4kg per mt
9mm 1.8 kg/mt
10mm 2.3kg/mt
11mm 2.7kg/mt
12mm 3.3kg/mt
13mm 3.9kg/mt

Short Link (and some others) chains are calibrated, or should be. The most highly being the DIN766/A standard. 10mm has a tollerance of +2.5/-0.5mm per 11 links. Most other short Link standards (EN818-3, AUS, etc) have a tollerance on 10mm of +/-1.0mm per link.

How to tell? Measure it but very small amounts of wear or heavy galvanising can make this tricky sometimes. It is best to know what Standard chain you have from the word go. Obviously this is tricky as well.

99% of all wiches gypsies are made for Short Link Chains. As there are some small differances between Standards, for example 10mm DIN is 28mm pitch and 10mm EN standard is 30mm pitch, you have to make sure you get the right gypsy for for a good fit. A bad fitting chain just wears things, can jamb or jump off, be noisy and just generally give you grief. Most winches manufacturers have a range of gypsies for each winch for the differing standard chains out there.

The differing 'standards' used cover size, manufacturing standards and loads.

The above is the metric and covers most of the world. The US uses differant standards again so chain sizing from there is a bit different again.

Chain grades are the same worldwide i.e a Grade 40 European chain is the same strength as a US Grade 40 (HT4, G40 are other names). Just be aware the 'margin' between break load and Safe Working loads are smaller in the US. European, South Pacific and most of the world uses a '4 to 1' margin i.e. 10 tonne break load = 2.5 tonne SWL. In the US it is more 2.5:1 which does make their chains 'look' stronger but they are the same.

ALL of the above relates to reputuable manufacturers. Be aware some chains coming out of the Asian region 'say' they are built to these standards but if they are they are usually 'only just'. A lot also say they are when they are not. As a general rule you would be regarded as either very brave and/or a tightwad if you use these short links on your boat knowingly. Some winch manufacturers warrentees are void if you use them as well due to poor calibration.

If you have any doubt about that 'super sharp' priced chain ask for a Test or Factory Certificate. All reputable manufacturers will provide these if asked.

Hope that helps.
 
Re: Another consideration...

Lakesailor,

Any idea where I can get one of those chain calibration measurers? The one I have is a bit old and been beaten up by kids and gravity :-)
 
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