Chain Stopper

[ccscott49]

Need some info/help.
I have seen quite a few smallish chain stoppers in SS, 8-10mm chain. I need one for 1/2"/13mm chain, any ideas? Have seen some very expensive chromed bronze ones in the states, what I want is the same as Jimmy Green sells, for 13mm, any ideas?
The jimmy Green one looks like it could be slightly modifed to take 13mm, as the slot in the pawl is already 14mm, any help would be appreciated.

 

[Richard10002]

Use a rope with a rolling hitch on the chain?

 

[ccscott49]

Cant do that, chain in hawse, so chain hook is also out for the same reason, unless I rig/de-rig it in the dinghy etc. etc.

 

[orizaba]

i use a chain pawl,i assume you are somthing to hold the chain as it comes up,
look on this site or google chain pawl


http://www.idealwindlass.com/new_page_5.htm

 

[ccscott49]

Those are the horrendously expensive chromed bronze ones, thanks, but a little too much for me. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[david_bagshaw]

we use a chain plate, ie flat s/s plate with a slotcut in it.
plate rests on top of hawse pipe as it goes through deck & chain fts in slot.

nice little handle on top to carry and tie to windlass so plate does not go walkies on a windy day.

has additional use as stops lots of water coming up chain pipe when punching into waves


best regards

David

 

[orizaba]

its not too hard to get one fabricated out of stainless take some piccys to your local fabricator and see what he says
there is not much to them,basicaly a channel and swinging arm

 

[ccscott49]

Thanks David, good idea, strong enough plate would be ideal, as lots of water does come up my hawse!

 

[Anonymous]

The chain stoppers I have seen don't look to be designed to take the working load of the chain and I note that Jimmy Green say that they are (only) for use as a ratchet when hauling chain by hand.

Are you looking for something to take the full load at anchor? I'm not sure that the chain stopper concept is the way to go?

 

[ccscott49]

David,
I take your point, that's why I was looking for something a little larger to take the strain of 1/2" chain. Maybe end up doing the same as I usually do and design a "brick shithouse" version and have it made myself. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Anonymous]

Colin, I've been wondering whether to fit one (or something) myself. The stopper needs to be fitted to carry the same forces and shock loads as a windlass or large deck cleat and you'd want a heavy backing plate to spread the load on a wood or GRP deck. Lewmar make the point that you need to electrically insulate the stopper on a steel deck.

I have spent an hour or so online to see if I can find an answer but nothing other than the Jimmy Green-like stoppers are available. Lewmar make a 14mm version and I saw a dollar price circa $400 /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif (or did I misread that?).

Please let us know how you get on.

David

 

[orizaba]

electrically insulating can be done by putting a thin bit of plastic or rubber underneath it,not sure of their reasoning unless its for corrosion tho,
interesting
good point about the large backing pad, tho we only use ours to give a breather when pulling the chain up.but i supose it does come under a fair load

 

[orizaba]

tried to show pictures of mine,as you can see the pawl is in the vertical position and as it is shaped it hooks into the link ofthe chain,tried the other way (flat)but found it slipped of the chain the second pin goes in to keep the pawl out the way to allow free wheel of chain,.both pins removable.
apologise over the state of the deck ,rather alot of dust has come aboard

apologies if piccys don't come out well,still working on this bit

 

[Anonymous]

Yes, it is to do with corrosion/electrolysis and they give more detail on their website that I'd recommend anyone with a steel deck to read. It's not just a matter of protecting the metal of the stopper itself touching the deck, there are the bolts to consider. Imagine the forces on a snatching rode; they will walk the stopper right up the edge of the holes causing the bolts to connect the deck with the stopper/chain. I'm not sure what sort of insulator would be strong enough to take those shock loads.

Having said all that, surely the chain in the chain locker tends to be in contact with the hull = the sea? I have never owned a steel hull so I have no experience of techniques.

 

[ccscott49]

I can make it part of the new installation of my new winch etc. Through bolted and welded to the new deck plate I'm making, the king plank where it will sit is 2" thick teak, so I dont think there will be a problem there, the load will be in a straight line from winch to hawse roller, so strian in one direction, (shear) with a backing plate I think the "jimmy green" type one would be OK, but a larger more "Englander" one built.

Have to think more.

By the way the lewmar one is $400, a bit too expensive for this lad, but we'll have to see how much one costs to make, may end up a similar price, in euros, that's about €300.

 

[Anonymous]

I know you can't get to the chain on the sea side of the hawse pipe, so can't use chain hook or snubber, but presumably you can easily get to the section of chain between the hawse roller and the gypsy? How about doing away with the stopper, using the windlass during lunch-stops and shackle a decent piece of rope onto the chain between hawse roller and the gypsy, made fast to a deck cleat or samson post. I do basically the same thing except that I use a chain hook at times as well. With a stainless shackle it isn't a problem and if ever you wanted to share the load you could easily make the rope off onto more than one cleat.

 

[ianabc]

Jus sold my chrome plated bronze overpriceed chaoin stopper as it was too low for the chain.

I had a 6 inch high 2/12 inch dia. stainless steel pipe welded to the deck.

The top of the pipe is capped with a thick stainless steel plate to which two 1/4 inch vertical strips of s.s. flat bar are welded in a V shape.

The gap in the V accepts the chain with a little clearance.


100 percent effectve as a chain stopper and no moving parts.


Almost all the steel boats have them fitted.


No reason that a pipe with a baseplate could not be through bolted with a huge backing block to a wood or frp deck.

 

[ccscott49]

I di think of just that, I may end up going that way, with a chain hook on a turnbuckle, so as to act as a lock when the anchor is up, to pull it tight in, may still go this way. No chance of a rope and shackle, as I have nowhere close at hand to tie off to. Thought about adding a cleat, but trying to reduce deck clutter, not increase it.
Obviously needs far more thought yet, before I come up with an elegant answer.

 

[Anonymous]

[ QUOTE ]
Obviously needs far more thought yet, before I come up with an elegant answer.

[/ QUOTE ]

Colin, when you have any ideas please share them, I'm in the same position. Having changed my anchor last winter I am still lashing it onto the bow roller and will continue to do so until I can think of an elegant, tidy, effective and affordable solution. I had a workshop at home before I sold up....it's times like these when I miss it!

David

 

[david_bagshaw]

for when te anchor is up we use a eye with a bottle screw ans a shackle with a smallenough pin to go through the chain.

stops accidental relase and anchor rattles in the hawse.

will post some pics if you like when I get home.