Chain/rope splice windlass

[ditchcrawler]

I have just fitted a Horizon SL 500 windlass with combined chain rope(12mm) gypsy to my boat & will be buying calibrated 7mm chain to suit.I will probably go for 30m of chain & use my existing 3 ply nylon spliced to it.I have seen alternative methods of splicing.A backsplice type & a down the chain type which is on the Bluemoment web site.Any advice or experience will be gratefully received.I understand multiplat type ropes do not work with a rope gypsy.Or should I go for a longer chain.As you see from my username I am on the east coast I do not anchor in deep water.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[Cloven]

I have had no problem with multiplait rope on a gyspy. Apart from being nicer to handle, multiplait is easy to splice to the chain - just get hold of Jimmy Green Marine catalogue (or download from their website? - www.jimmygreen.co.uk) and it tells you how to do it.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[Evadne]

I, too, used to sail on the east coast and its rare that I anchored in 10m or more of water, for which 30m of chain alone would be sufficient. I have a hard eye splice in my nylon "anchoring line" which I can shackle into the end of the anchor chain if necessary. I've only used it once, anchoring off Dungeness in a bit of a blow. I don't have a windlass, so I'm not sure whether it would pass over the drum alright or if it would need some assistance. There shouldn't be too much strain on it at that point unless you're anchored in very deep water, so it can be lifted over the bow roller if it doesn't fit properly.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[jerryat]

Hi ditchcrawler!

I'd give Marlow Ropes a call. They do a super (free) splicing sheet that gives step by step instructions on a variety of the most used splices. Do go for the multiplait 'in line with chain' splice. I have 8mm chain with 16mm multiplait spliced to it and it runs round the gypsy on my Lofrans Airon and stows with no trouble at all - and the Lofrans does not claim to be a rope/chain gypsy!

Hope this helps

Cheers Jerry


<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[Rohorn]

Hi...I have 10mm chain plus 18mm multiplait, and the problem I had was the connection between the two. I followed I think, a Jimmy Green instruction sheet, (maybe Marlow) and all was well for a while, the tranfer round the rope chain gypsy from chain to rope and vice versa went smoothly, but after a season or two, the connection sort of went rigid, where the strands of multiplait were woven through the chain, about 20 cm.length. This became quite a liability, especially if someone else was working the windlass, either the windlass (S/L Anchorman) would jam while lifting, or the join would jump off the gypsy when letting go. Given that the join was going to be a problem and also because I simply didn't like the look of the exact point where the multiplait met the chain, I cut that join out and fit the most compact eye and shackle I could find which fitted. Now, sure, I have to "assist" the join around the gypsy, but the the length of the join is much less, and it looks stronger.
That works for me, others may have better ideas.
Cheers....R

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[snowleopard]

my windlass has a rope/chain gypsy but it's a lofrans so the rules may be slightly different. Lofrans are very definite on the requirements for theirs: (a) 3-strand only as it needs to be hard enough to give the grip (b) join rope to chain with a back splice through the last link, not a long splice through several links.

there have in the past been lots of posters on this subject who don't follow these rules and get good results. you can always try different methods and see which works.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[duncan]

backsplice weaker
chain splice easy
multiplat works great with rope/chain gypsies
multiplat sits much better in the chain locker and feeds out better
multiplat splice to chain even easier

but - for multiplat read anchorplait or octoplait not the sort of plaited rope used for sheets etc which is not only useless for a windlass but shouldn't be anywhere near your anchor gear as is has no elasticity at all.

<hr width=100% size=1>madesco madidum ..../forums/images/icons/smile.gif

 

[Rick]

It's an interesting debate - some have very set views, and are of the opinion that the backsplice is weaker than the "shovel" splice, however I've never seen any proof that is the case. The shovel splice (so called by Brion Toss) does have the problem of bringing lots of mud on board from the bottom, but it's probablt easier for those who don't splice often. Either way, you need to regularly check the splice, and redo whenever wear shows.

If you do the shovel style with three strand, a useful variation is to unravel the 3 strands, comb out somewhat, and reassemble into 4 strands which allows for a symmetrical operation.

<hr width=100% size=1>