Chain links v Shackles

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mick

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I need to extend my anchor chain. Would there be a stronger connection using galvanised shackles or the chain link contraption which comes in two halves and is set with a large hammer. The latter doesn't look too strong, given the fact that it is already split. I don't have to worry about the connection not going through a gypsy (so to speak).

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if you dont have to worry about it going round a gipsy, then i would go for a galvanised shackle, moused with galvanised wire.

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The trouble with shackles, unless you have an oversize end link, is that the eye of a shackle, with a cross-section area comparable to the chain just won't fit, so you end up with a wizened weak point.

I'd use the joining shackle, but with the added precaution of a couple of spots of weld to keep it securely together.

I have used climbing joining links, with a screw barrel, but it's a pricey way of getting a join very little superior to the standard link.

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I have used a galvanise shackle to join my new anchor chain [last season] to the "good" of what was left of my original chain. "just in case"

What I did was to tighten it untit I had enough of the thread sticking through to rivet
the pin over,
Best bit about it is "The join" actually passes over my SL windlass without jumping !
May be im just lucky, but the chain has a good wrap on the windlass and a decent drop into the chain locker, Im happy enough with it !...

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Hi Mick,

In answer to your question if you check with someone such as Plastimo or most chadlers they can tell you the strength of the links. I did this sometime ago and although I can't remember the exact figure it was pretty strong. By then checking the strength of the chain and a shackle you can decide.

<hr width=100% size=1>Dave
Southampton - uk

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.MyCleopatra.co.uk>The site for cleopatra boat owners</A>
 
the connecting links are good, get a good one, rivet it properly and a quick tackweld as suggested will do nicely. They are very strong, some tests show as strong as the chain. there was a thread about this on here some time ago, do a search.

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Viareggio - chained to canal de Berlimucca wall during F10 Sept 29 to Oct 08 2003 - have done and my experience has not been good.

Due to unsupported length of clevis pin the pin distorts under heavy load and you have to hacksaw the lot free and throw away shackles.

Admittedly the shock loads were probably greater than experienced on an anchor rode. The deck was covered in iron filings from the chains' chafing.

I'd still stand by using a welded joining link as the most workmanlike, pragmatic and economical solution, though a bit permanaent.

How's Alghero - have you met Carlo who runs the town quay concession and the 3 charter boats. He has convinced the port police that the CA ensign is only worn by members of the aristocracy - result kid-glove handling and extreme courtesy.

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Use A Mallion Rapide "french for quick link" Available from most climbing shops, or direct from Lyon Equipment, see web site. or even better they are used for caving and rigging ladders . Try Caving supplies in Buxton. I reackon you would want a link size of 7mm. Which should have a breaking strain of about 2500kgs!! happy anchoring
chris

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If you have access to a good welder, have the job done permanently. It needs doing with a proper TIG welder by an expert, but is only a 10 minute job so it should not cost you too much. The method is to cut out the original weld in the end link of the new chain leaving a gap big enough to slot in the end link from the old chain. The gap must now be completely filled with weld. I have heard of 'cowboys' who make a single cut, prise the link open, insert the other link, squeeze the link closed again and then just put a bit of surface weld around the outside to hold the cut link together. Horrific!

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Met Carlo, wish i'd met him before commiting to frederico, his charges are half of frederico. The berths don't suffer from the horrendous surging after a storm either. which has broken 4 of my 20mm warps. The place is fine, a bit dead for a liveaboard, my brother and I being the only ones in the harbour! I will not be wintering there again. Fine if you leave your boat and go home for the winter and just visit, frederico looks after "his" boats with a fathers care.

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Confession

Must confess I was going to suggest what sounds like your cowboys method, lucky I read your post first. /forums/images/icons/blush.gif
Cut and weld sounds like the best way to go, my only concern would be the dissimilar metals issue in salt water.

Trevor

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Take care ....

Just make sure you do not use bad size shackle .... if the chain can slip round so that chain end links can pull on the 'legs' of the shackle its no good. The chain end links MUST stay on the pin and the 'eye' respectively .....

I have seen a 1 1/2 " shackle parted on a mooring through this ..... no shackle is designed to take side load.

<hr width=100% size=1>Nigel ...
Bilge Keelers get up further ! I came - cos they said was FREE Guinness !
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Overwintering

I guess the whole island is a bit dead in the winter - a local friend, who spent 3 years on NATO posting to Cagliari confirmed that.

I guess Palau or La Maddalena itself would be my choice for overwintering in that neck of the woods. Bothe lovely towns and the US Navy base keeps it alive.

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Maybe this qualifies for "cowboy" but always worked for me (still does). Using both end links, use a hacksaw and cut a cross through the links so that two sharp ends face each other. When both are cut, slip one into the other, like a puzzle (I'm not sure if this is clear). Once together, weld up the crosses on both which gives great weld penetration and restores the chain to it's original strength and size. It is of course important to use the right rods and the right amperage so that the weld doesn't oxidise but done right this join will not represent "the weak link".

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Please will SOMEONE bring back the CHAIN SHACKLE!!

Until perhaps 25 years ago there was no problem. You could buy, in a chandlers, a yacht sized version of the big ship chain joining shackle (not the Kenter shackle- the old one) sized for all usual yacht chains. This had an oval pin held in place with a wooden spile, no protruding eye to catch on things. You fitted them in pairs, back to back, because of course the pin goes through the eye of a link. 100% strength, quick and easy.

Then for some reason they disappeared and we got the nasty C shaped things.



<hr width=100% size=1>Que scais-je?
 
I have now found my Plastimo book and it quotes the following:

Chain joining link:
8mm SWL 1000kg
10mm SWL 1500kg
12mm SWL 1800kg
14mm SWL 2000kg

Shackles D shape or Bow (Galvanised Steel):

5mm Breaking load 320kg SWL 80kg
6mm 400kg 100kg
8mm 800kg 200kg
10mm 1300kg 320kg
12mm 2000kg 520kg
14mm 2800kg 700kg
16mm 3200kg 800kg

SWL: Safe Working Load

Forged shackles, AISI 316 St. Steel are quoted higher eg:

4mm Breaking load 600kg SWL 250kg

They also do a shackle with a captive pin and these are quoted even higher eg;

4mm Breaking load 1050kg SWL 450kg
Hope this helps


<hr width=100% size=1>Dave
Southampton - uk

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.MyCleopatra.co.uk>The site for cleopatra boat owners</A>
 
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