Chafing Of Teak Capping Rail

[dewent]

My mooring lines from the deck to marina cleats cross my teak capping rails, as do my fender lines and are damaging the varnish. I can see various products advertised to wrap around the mooring lines to limit damage - most are very expensive! Has anyone suggestions as to the best strategy/products to limit this problem?

 

[davidej]

cut some pieces of less than 1mm thich sheet s/s- fit and glue to capping strip where chafe occurs

 

[dewent]

Where would I purchase the s/s sheets?

 

[davidej]

My local marine engineer/fabricator will guillotine offcuts to size for the cost of a beer.

You are only looking for pieces maybe 4in by 2in

can't you find one near you?

 

[MoodySabre]

Self-adhesive wear and tear pads from http://www.wearandtearpads.com/new-home/

 

[vyv_cox]

I use lengths of 2 inch toilet hose, about a foot long, slit along their length. They snap over the toerail when moored and are taken off when we leave.

 

[prv]

Brass strips, hole in each end for a screw, put several side by side if necessary.

Pete

 

[Deleted member 36384]

The Rival's suffer from the same issue; they have a gunwale about 2 - 3" off the deck with about a 3" teak cap. The best solution is grey rain water pipes, 4" in diameter (maybe 3"). Cut a section out along its axis, say a 1" slot, about 3' long length. Prise open and pop it over the teak cap where the lines cross. Incredibly simple, works brilliantly, easy to replace. The good thing is that they are portable and one can move them around depending on the leads of the warps as marinas, harbours, tow lines dictate. I have 4: aft, bow, fore and aft spring; each is 3 foot long.

 

[dewent]

Do you mean the normal hard plastic pipes as per house guttering? What length?

 

[Caer Urfa]

I bought some curved aluminium beading bar from B & Q , just cut to length and drill.

Mike

View attachment 31700

 

[Deleted member 36384]

Do you mean the normal hard plastic pipes as per house guttering? What length?

Yes, but the down pipe, not the rone, in my case, 3' sections. The curve of the hull will determine what length you can fit. The 3' worked for me because that was the area on the rail that was being buffed by the warp which runs at an obtuse angle to the cap rail.

However, it is very agricultural looking compared to the aluminium/brass convex strips which look smart as Caer Urfa's picture shows. Mmm, thinking I may change the drain pipes for the brass strips now.

 

[KenMcCulloch]

I use lengths of 2 inch toilet hose, about a foot long, slit along their length. They snap over the toerail when moored and are taken off when we leave.

Likewise. we tend to leave ours on as there are bits of capping rail which look better covered up! On my Folkboat I had a problem with warps grinding away the forward corners of the coachroof coamings, which I successfully dealt with by screwing strips of brass onto the relevant areas. You will see quite a lot of boats with brass strips let into wooden capping rails at strategic points, seems to work.