Seastoke
Well-Known Member
So it’s coming time for the lift out , does ceramic work on grip , is it worth the esta money . Can you recommend or just go 3M .
Ceramic coating
- Thread starter Seastoke
- Start date
Anibal
Well-Known Member
I am going down the same route in April after consulting here and convincing myself I can do the job (never done it before)
For what I have read, the ceramic coating will leave a slightly slippery surface which is what prevents the dust and muck to adhere to the surfaces. Wouldn’t be best to mask the areas where you need a proper grip and apply an alternative product there? My boat has synthetic teak on all walkways so for me is a bit different (no need to apply ceramic there)
For what I have read, the ceramic coating will leave a slightly slippery surface which is what prevents the dust and muck to adhere to the surfaces. Wouldn’t be best to mask the areas where you need a proper grip and apply an alternative product there? My boat has synthetic teak on all walkways so for me is a bit different (no need to apply ceramic there)
Fire99
Well-Known Member
I've mixed reports on it. Some quite like it but here in NI some have found the damp atmosphere doesn't give very good results and with the more 'professional' jobs anything under the coat is very hard to get rid of so I'd be interested if you guys can report back after it's been applied for some time to say how well it's worked.
PalmaTarga
Well-Known Member
Ceramic coatings don't last well with salt. My experience was it's not really any different to a good polish and wax.
Fire99
Well-Known Member
That's interesting.. I see someone here who specialised in doing it for boats, doesn't do it anymore. The take-up here in the somewhat 'hostile' weather environment didn't seem too high.
Seastoke
Well-Known Member
Does that English guy still work in the boat sales over there.
Fire99
Well-Known Member
John? Yeah at BJ Marine...
gjgm
Well-Known Member
My understanding is that ceramic is no more than an alternative to wax. It isnt some magic bullet. You will still need to wash,clean ,possibly re-apply.
Maybe it lasts a bit longer than wax ( or maybe not!). I dont think it is apply it and forget it.
I think to apply it, you need super clean grp ( absolutely no wax) or it is just going to fall off!
I suspect often it is not applied correctly and secondly,folk misunderstand what is does and doesn't do.
Meantime,.I m staying with 3M wax !
Dino
Well-Known Member
A lot of the boat detailers were using polymer sealants before ceramic got popular. I’ve used Menzerna Powerlock Polymer Sealant and it’s good stuff.
With ceramic coatings, there are a lot of spray-on products that have ceramic in the name but they don’t last.
With ceramic coatings, there are a lot of spray-on products that have ceramic in the name but they don’t last.
Whopper
Well-Known Member
I would take a look at Gtechniq C2V3 as an alternative sealant after polishing. For DIY it’s very easy to apply and to top up. Polishing is the hard work but sealing with this spray sealant is a fraction of the effort of traditional waxes. You’d do the topsides on a 40 footer in 30 mins or less so handy to do mid season and keep things in shape.
Dino
Well-Known Member
Yes, I’ve heard good things about C2V3. The Menzerna Powerlock is very easy to apply. Use a soft foam pad on a polisher to spread a very small amount. Leave it for a few hours and then buff off with a microfibre cloth
Anibal
Well-Known Member
I placed my order last night with Gtechniq for all the goodies I will need to coat the boat with ceramic. Shed loads of microfibres towels, some of them are the super duper ones and a free bag of haribo thrown in for good measure. Looking forward to get her out of the water and start working on her.
Jerbro
Well-Known Member
I’ve used it on my boat. It lasted 2 seasons before it stopped “beading” water and i started to notice some slight chalking. I will do it again when it’s warmer. You can’t apply it less than 10c.. it won’t hold. I’ve used the Shelby products.. there are others. The surface needs to be really clean before applying.. Shelby have a “stripped bare” product for surface decontamination after wash and polish, but before applying the coating. Each to there own, but this has worked for me.
jon and michie
Well-Known Member
I enquired about Cermaic Coating on GRP and was told from a profeesional that it doesnt work well with salt - So I am going the standard polishing route
Whopper
Well-Known Member
Excellent. There are no miracles unfortunately. Prep is key, decontamination washing etc., followed by a dry and polish and ideally a wipe with alcohol before a sealant product is applied. There is chat above about salt not suiting ceramic coats - it’s worth researching about mild alkaline or acid based lance applied snow foam foam products. One or two hits of these per season would result in genuinely professional level finish if you get the polishing/wax done early.
Anibal
Well-Known Member
That you for that. Fortunately I am based on the non tidal Thames (fresh water) so I should be ok. I ordered the Marine Panel Wipe bottle with lots of micro towels as part of the kit. I will wash the boat twice, dry, polish, decontaminate, dry again and then apply the base ceramic coating. Fingers crossed 
gjgm
Well-Known Member
I have no clue on dilution/dispersal rates etc etc, but I did read the reverse of the snow foam bottle the other day and it does state it is extremely hazardous and has long lasting effects to aquatic life. Perhaps it is fine to use in a marina, perhaps not, but I might think that is not the ideal product?
Whopper
Well-Known Member
Yes fair. There are sugar based snow foam options which might be ok. Bilt Hamber Touch Less is one
Elessar
Well-Known Member
How do you do the topsides mid season? Dinghy and a sucker handle?
Whopper
Well-Known Member
Apologies, I mean the superstructure. A lance based wax/sealer could be an idea for the hull sides. Koch Chemie protector wax is one
