Centaur Squidgy Foredeck Syndrome

The area of the foredeck I am confident about on mine as not being cored is the flat bit you sit the Danforth on behind the bow roller, I threaded several thin bolts thru in order to fix a new anchor mounting plate, while the headlining was down.
 
Looking forward to seeing them. A surveyor told me if a deck feels spongy, that is when there is a balsa problem. I have a slight depression under the mast that worried me, but it is rock solid around there and nothing to worry about. I guess yours might have a similar little dimple but if it is like mine ignore it. Other things need checking. Enjoy checking it out.
PS It is easy to find negatives on the internet about Centaurs, that because there are so many of them and anything that is a worry always gets a lot of press. There are so many actively used Centaurs that don't need writing about, positive stuff about old boats is not such good copy.... I love my Centaur:encouragement:
 
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It has just occurred to me
If Dylan needs all these posts to buy a centaur (the easy bit)
Assuming it does not go straight to the bottom ( & some think it will) How many b..y posts will it take to flog the d..d thing

This could run for years
 
It has just occurred to me
If Dylan needs all these posts to buy a centaur (the easy bit)
Assuming it does not go straight to the bottom ( & some think it will) How many b..y posts will it take to flog the d..d thing

This could run for years

ebay - no minimum bid

gone....

although two blokes have already offered to buy any centaur good enough to get me to Orkney and round

D
 
I am not 100% confident but I don't think the foredeck is cored - always assumed it wasn't anyway (1979). I was about to bond some battens to it to which I was sticking ply to which I will be sticking material.

Reluctant to check - let me know please!
 
good stuff

the wests man can advise me

brilliant

D

I don't know if the WEST distributor in the UK (ie Wessex Resins Ltd) still offers the service but a few years ago I contacted them for advice (about re-sheathing a plywood deck with epoxy) and they sent a sales engineer to my boat to discuss the job. He gave me a lot of very helpful advice. All free-of-charge.
 
I am not 100% confident but I don't think the foredeck is cored - always assumed it wasn't anyway (1979). I was about to bond some battens to it to which I was sticking ply to which I will be sticking material.

Reluctant to check - let me know please!

Me too. mine is 1979, and the forecabin is carpet lined so I'm not investigating unless I really have to.

I do have 2 extra cleats and an SL winch so lots of foredeck clutter and scope for holes/leaks but no probs with leaks or spongy decks.
 
me too

I hope we shall soon learn more when an expert appears

I have emailed my centaur anatomist but he is busy

D

I did mean pulpit....

and all boats at this price level will have problems

some are worse than others

My 1973 Pentland has a balsa cored deck & superstructure, except for the big hole where the pulpit was ripped out & I filled the hole with solid grp & marine ply layers. Any hard blow on the pulpit is likely to disturb the hull joints (ie where the threaded feet pass thro the hull) & allow water ingress. If this was ignored for a few years then a spongy deck is very likely.
 
My 1973 Pentland has a balsa cored deck & superstructure, except for the big hole where the pulpit was ripped out & I filled the hole with solid grp & marine ply layers. Any hard blow on the pulpit is likely to disturb the hull joints (ie where the threaded feet pass thro the hull) & allow water ingress. If this was ignored for a few years then a spongy deck is very likely.

there you have it searush

I reckon that is where we are

D
 
I don't know the Centaur so may be completely wrong but usually bow rails are bolted to the outside of the deck into the hull/deck joint. As such any damge to the GRP would be seen near the base of the bow rail uprights. In my experience bow rails can be very mangled in a bingle without any damage to the GRP. As said you cna often straighten the bow rail without removing from the hull. So just check the tightness of bolts into GRP and the area around.
I would suggest that squidgy deck is a failure of old age and perhaps water getting in through holes or fittings. As said the more epoxy you can squeeze into the gap through drilled holes the more rigid it will become. More drastic repairs involve cutting out either the top layer, (or pieces of it), easier but destroys the non skid pattern or cutting out the under GRP layer (or pieces of it) and work upside down to remove the rotten balsa and replace with foam plywood or solid GRP.
I would not fit battens across under neath or above but a layer of carbon fibre might stiffen it up a bit or use battens covered in GRP from one side to the other.
really however if you can stand the squidgy ness it probably will never fail any more and can be ignored. good luck olewill
 
Dylan
Surely there must be another write-off Centaur somewhere but with an undamaged bow. Paddy's motor bike will soon cut the bow off each. A good layer of the Forum's favourite Sikaflex and attach the good bow to the better hull with several worktop joining bolts.
http://www.wickes.co.uk/worktop-joi...match||plid|&gclid=CKT199jFqrwCFSgKwwodelkA8A

Can't believe such an irresponsible suggestion, that could be really dangerous - those bolts ain't stainless and will rust out don't you know!!!
 
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