Centaur headlining

Swanrad2

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I've gone and binned the removed headlining from the forepeak, grrrr.

Now I can (and will) make new templates. Just wondered if anyone has kept an old set I could nick to save time and improve accuracy. Slim chance I know, but worth a go.

Ta
 
I've gone and binned the removed headlining from the forepeak, grrrr.

Now I can (and will) make new templates. Just wondered if anyone has kept an old set I could nick to save time and improve accuracy. Slim chance I know, but worth a go.

I am certain that Hawke House will have templates for the Centaur on file, should you be thinking of buying from them.
 
What the panels or the glued headlining?

Glued. I though about panels but I just don't think it would work well on the smaller boat. Actually, the nastiest bit of the whole business was stripping the remains of the old foam from inside the hull, and even with panels you'd need to do that. Then came the hard bit: lying on my back trying to lift 6' x 9' of foam backed vinyl, sprayed with glue, into place using both hands and both feet.
 
I've done it on a 21' Westerly. Never, ever, again.

I did a glued forepeak replacement it on a Westerley Centaur with a Hawk House kit, then the owner wanted to carry it aft into the heads so did that as well, not really a job for the faint hearted though!

also machined a U shaped Mahogany section trim to go around the heads / forepeak bulkhead edge just to finish all off, all looked good when finished.

Foambacked vynle and contact adhesive " Heart in the mouth job "

Panels would definitely be easy, IMHO.
 
Yes, probably - but decided to go with ply panels, I think buying the kit and glueing it up didnt seem painful enough for us.

No, you've surely avoided pain by going for panels. I recovered our panels (not a Westerly). One can avoid foam-backed vinyl and contact adhesive, and the panels can be attached with 3M Dual Lock (except for highly curved sections).
 
No, you've surely avoided pain by going for panels. I recovered our panels (not a Westerly). One can avoid foam-backed vinyl and contact adhesive, and the panels can be attached with 3M Dual Lock (except for highly curved sections).

Do you know how seldom I am right!

Thanks,

Tony
 
"Then came the hard bit: lying on my back trying to lift 6' x 9' of foam backed vinyl, sprayed with glue, into place using both hands and both feet."

No video for us?

It might be entertaining, but it was ten or more years ago, and I didn't have a video camera. If I had you would see the woodwork charring at some of the language I used.
 
I've done the Hawkhouse kit job on our Corsair and on a previous Westerly. Agree that it's not easy. However, I'm now replacing the remaining drooping head linings by taking down the old vinyl, cleaning off the foam (this comes off easily and washing and scrubbing the vinyl usually brings it up pretty well) and then scrubbing off the remaining foam from the hull - this is, of course the messy and unpleasant part, but you don't need to be too fussy about removing the old glue. You then go to Hawkhouse and buy their foam which has self adhesive glue on both sides. Cut into suitable easy to handle shapes, peel off the plastic lining and stick on to coach roof/hull. When all this is up, peel off the second layer of lining section by section and offer up your clean headlining. Works for me and looks good.
 
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