CAV Fuel Filters

You still have to bleed a spin on, the racor you don't - best thing since Cyril and sliced bread (1976).

I think Maxi77 was referring to having swapped a CAV OIL filter for spin-on, not fuel filter.

On the subject of elderly oil filter design, when I bought my current boat it had one of these antique things. The previous owner, a dear old boy, had religiously had the engine serviced for years by a well-regarded local (to Devon) company. The receipts for this and other work came to me with the boat. When I came to replace the filter I discovered that one of the internal springs and at least two of the large washers were missing -- for how long, one can't even guess.

So presumably every year the engine had received a new filter, which was duly thrown away each autumn -- having accomplished absolutely nothing. In the absence of the missing parts, the oil had taken the easy route and gone round it.

The same company replaced two cutless bearings in as many seasons, evidently without asking the question, why?

So perhaps one argument for keeping things simple is to prevent professional clots, as well as we amateurs, from messing them up.
 
When changing a CAV filter, use ASDA`s large bleach container (empty), cut the bottom off slide up over the filter undo bolt catch everything is this way. When finished and before priming replace bottle and leave with a bit of wire through handle to keep in place.
 
Could someone clarify for someone who is uncertain in these matters:

I have CAV filters. I can buy an add-on to convert them to take RACOR filters, I can then change filters by screw-on, screw-off, and I will not have to bleed.

Is all that correct?
 
I have never had a problem dropping fuel in the bilges, changing filters, I use two or three old plastic shopping bags (you do keep yours I hope) put a wad of paper towel, not expensive kitchen type, cheap industrial, (has lots of other uses on the boat) put them around the filter and take the old one off inside the plastic bag, seemples! No fuel in bilges. Leave it in there for disposal, change rings, refit. I have changed literally thousands like this.
 
This is where I buy my diesel filters and fittings, a small but excellent business
http://www.ssldieselparts.co.uk/index.php and prices very competitive.
In the Hebrides but manage a next day service usualy, the number on the site, ask for Robert the owner, very helpfull and has helped me with his excellent advice.
No connection except as a satisfied customer
 
Old Varnish...

The separator/filter on my boat was a Separ and the plastic bowl was cracked.. no seapage yet but thought it was time to renew.

I never really got the answer on how good the spin-on conversion kits were, although having a Separ filter I could not have used one anyway.

In the end I went for this... The Racor 120AP.
http://www.expresslube-shop.co.uk/s...hru-Bowl.html?shop_param=cid=10&aid=RC-120AP&

I didn't buy it from here but thought that the picture at least shows what it is like. I just did the clear part up hand tight to the filter part... filled it to the brim with diesel and then screwed the whole lot up to the top part and started the engine..

Advantage is that when you unscrew... it will still hold all the fuel within it.. or I guess thinking about it now, you could even undo the tap at the bottom, open the vent screw and it would then be empty and all ready to change without spilling a drop!

PS - A metal bowl version is available if needed.. or 10 micron instead of 30.
 
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