Caulking teak decks

[purplerobbie]

My decks are old and tired and need recalling.
What is the best calking to use and can I buy a tool for cleaning out the seems?

I did think about using a router but it would all probably end in tears.

 

[pvb]

Do they need re-caulking because the existing caulking is just coming loose, or because the deck has worn down and the grooves are now too shallow?

If the caulking is just coming loose, you can easily(!) re-caulk. If the grooves are too shallow, it's a major job. Don't even think about attacking it with a router.
.

 

[purplerobbie]

A bit of both really.
In parts they have worn down and it's coming lose and in other parts it's just coming out.

Don't really want to remove the stuff that's still stuck in so hoping I don't have to remove the lot?

Do I?

 

[pvb]

A bit of both really.
In parts they have worn down and it's coming lose and in other parts it's just coming out.

Don't really want to remove the stuff that's still stuck in so hoping I don't have to remove the lot?

Do I?

If it's worn down too low in places, it's probably time for a proper reconditioning (assuming there's sufficient depth of teak remaining). This really isn't an easy job for DIY.
.

 

[purplerobbie]

It's either that or rip the lot off and glass up the holes and paint it all non slip (plan B)
I can't really make it any worse and if I do I can go back to plan B.
Paying someone to do this would cost thousands. I really can't afford that.

 

[aluijten]

Like said before, if the grooves are too shallow then it becomes complicated. If not there is the Fein Multimaster tool that can help you remove the old chaulking.
You need to asses what kind of chaulking is used originally. Fora example, Hallberg Rassy uses silicone based stuff, many others used polyurethane based stuff (like Sikaflex 290). The silicone is stronger but you cannot sand it down. The polyurethane stuff can be sanded. Changing from silicone to polyurethane is close to hell on earth as you need to remove all old stuff and then sand and clean the grooves with acetone.
First point you need to asses is the total thickness of the teak. If you are down to less then 10mm, it may be better to consider removing it altogether and put new teak on it or go another route.

Good luck. I've done it myself and when I think back about it my knees still feel sore...
But with enough effort it will look great afterwards!

Arno

 

[MikeBz]

I would (well did) use Saba caulk in preference to Sikaflex. It is a bit cheaper and doesn't require a primer which saves time and money. It's also a bit softer/more flexible which I think is better.

 

[chinita]

Sorry to appear pedantic, but SabaCaulk does need primer; this from their data sheet:


3.2.2 Priming bonding surfaces
After cleaning and degreasing, the teak can be primed. The primer to use can be determined by using the
SABA Marine pre-treatment table. Apply a thin, even layer of primer to the bonding surfaces using a brush or
a primer applicator.
Note:
 Allow the primer to thoroughly evaporate.

 

[LittleShip]

There is loads of information on re-chalking decks and you need to read about it before trying to do it.

The only information I will give is......... Don't cut corners, like painting preparation is 70% of the work.

Tom.

 

[martinaskey]

I did all the deck on my 36ft wooden S&S last year and it was a bigger job than I'd reckoned on but not too technically demanding.
Used a Worxs sonicrafter with a Fein caulk removal blade to take out the old stuff.
blades are expensive but worth every penny.
Cleaned and deepened the seams using a diamond sector blade on the same machine (had about 9mm of teak remaining from original 12).
Both worked very well.
Caulking - used Saba products bought through Robbins Timber - perfectly happy with this and no leaks this year. Sabacaulk does require cleaner and primer.
Knee pads essential !
As Tom says, preparation is the main task - allow about three times as much time as you first thought it'd take

Martin

 

[macd]

Agree that Saba is excellent stuff, and certainly preferable to Sika. Simson (also Dutch, like Saba) is also good. Both require priming.

 

[Fergus]

This may horrify the purists but if the caulking is cosmetic (I.e. panels rather than individual planks) this stuff could help for a few years http://www.anti-slip-paint.co.uk/safekote-marine-litre-p-189.html
(hides behind sofa with flame suit on!)

What I should have added is that the black version can be used as fake caulking!

 

[pcatterall]

I struggled for years to keep my old teak decks good and it was hard work. The new owner just sealed and painted the lot, I was horrified but he had a dry useable boat to enjoy!!
If you can divide the work into 'discrete' practical areas then get the best advice on the forum, get the materials in stock and do a section at a time. You can then see how your work holds up and by concentrating on a smaller are at a time not get overfaced and take short cuts ( there aren't any!!)
Good luck

 

[MikeBz]

So senility has finally set in here, checking back through my invoices I see that I should have written "SIS 400" not "Saba". Duh.

Sorry to appear pedantic, but SabaCaulk does need primer; this from their data sheet:


3.2.2 Priming bonding surfaces
After cleaning and degreasing, the teak can be primed. The primer to use can be determined by using the
SABA Marine pre-treatment table. Apply a thin, even layer of primer to the bonding surfaces using a brush or
a primer applicator.
Note:
 Allow the primer to thoroughly evaporate.