steve_cronin
N/A
Re: Holes
What happened to the ply?
steve cronin
What happened to the ply?
steve cronin
Caulking a teak deck
- Thread starter LostinFrance
- Start date
Mirelle
N/A
The Gougeon Brothers approach
to the faux teak deck issue. Almost certainly the best one.
I must introduce you to my dinghy some time; over the past 16 years it's been a wonderful test bed for epoxy encapsulated plywood...and my original answer to your original question was perfectly serious; you need bond breaker tape.
to the faux teak deck issue. Almost certainly the best one.
I must introduce you to my dinghy some time; over the past 16 years it's been a wonderful test bed for epoxy encapsulated plywood...and my original answer to your original question was perfectly serious; you need bond breaker tape.
steve_cronin
N/A
Re: Holes
Between the gunwale and the edge of the ply water will stand and eventually soak into the end grain of the ply. Inevitable, especially as the side decks slope out to the gunwale.
Boats INTENDED to have teak decks, like HRs, Najads & Contests usually have their decks hogg shaped so as not to allow standing water.
Steve Cronin
Between the gunwale and the edge of the ply water will stand and eventually soak into the end grain of the ply. Inevitable, especially as the side decks slope out to the gunwale.
Boats INTENDED to have teak decks, like HRs, Najads & Contests usually have their decks hogg shaped so as not to allow standing water.
Steve Cronin
LostinFrance
Well-Known Member
Re: Can I answer that?
I can only imagine that the pellets were not fitted correctly, in fact the screws are not necessary after the epoxy has set, so the screws should be removed and the screwhole filled with epoxy. Just because some people don't do their job properly, you can't scrap a working system.
I can only imagine that the pellets were not fitted correctly, in fact the screws are not necessary after the epoxy has set, so the screws should be removed and the screwhole filled with epoxy. Just because some people don't do their job properly, you can't scrap a working system.
LostinFrance
Well-Known Member
Re: The Gougeon Brothers approach
I quite agree. However the Gougeon Brothers latest edition is not very current. I decided not to use epoxy infills because I feared that the teak strips would be cupped over time as the teak wore but the epoxy didn't. Purely a personal choice, but I have to say again, teak strips with caulking is quite a normal construction method. You may not like it, but it is practical. Tell me about your dinghy, if epoxy has been applied correctly it will not rot.
I quite agree. However the Gougeon Brothers latest edition is not very current. I decided not to use epoxy infills because I feared that the teak strips would be cupped over time as the teak wore but the epoxy didn't. Purely a personal choice, but I have to say again, teak strips with caulking is quite a normal construction method. You may not like it, but it is practical. Tell me about your dinghy, if epoxy has been applied correctly it will not rot.
LostinFrance
Well-Known Member
Re: Holes
Anyone fitting a ply deck will ensure the end grain is sealed. Anyone professional that is, and I have a high regard for shipwrights modern and traditional. Maybe you have seen some bodged up repair jobs that were no good. I know I have.
my deck is taped at the gunwhale with glassfibre tape. again no ingress of water.
By hogg do you mean cambered? as in curved? I think most decks are cambered, mine are, I have raced a few hotties that were flat, but that was only make them cheap to build.
Anyone fitting a ply deck will ensure the end grain is sealed. Anyone professional that is, and I have a high regard for shipwrights modern and traditional. Maybe you have seen some bodged up repair jobs that were no good. I know I have.
my deck is taped at the gunwhale with glassfibre tape. again no ingress of water.
By hogg do you mean cambered? as in curved? I think most decks are cambered, mine are, I have raced a few hotties that were flat, but that was only make them cheap to build.
LostinFrance
Well-Known Member
Re: Holes
Oh I see what you mean now, we have a nomenclature problem here. I can't remember after 3 glasses of red what the term is, but I'm sure I will be reminded; I do not have a high gunwhale with scuppers, water just runs away........................
Oh I see what you mean now, we have a nomenclature problem here. I can't remember after 3 glasses of red what the term is, but I'm sure I will be reminded; I do not have a high gunwhale with scuppers, water just runs away........................
Mirelle
N/A
Re: The Gougeon Brothers approach
That makes perfect sense: I understand what you are doing.
The dinghy, a glued lap ply clinker job, has led (and is leading) quite a hard life, but we have had some interesting local failures.
The "osmosis" effect on the bottom when it spent its first winter afloat - the blisters even smelled like grp boat pox!
The small localised patch of rot in way of the aft bouyancy tank when it spent several years inverted over the skylight on deck. I just stuck my finger through it - quite localised, due to rain water getting into a crack in the epoxy coating, unspotted due to the antifouling paint.
The gradual shedding of the epoxy coating below the waterline when it went back to living afloat.
As of now, its still epoxy coated internally and of course in way of the buoyancy tanks, but the topsides are Coelan and the bottom is alkyd paint.
Conclusion is epoxy encapsuation does indeed build a strong, light boat, and a very pretty one, but you have to guard against abrasion, and the effects of salt and fresh water, frost and sunlight should your guard against abrasion fail.
That makes perfect sense: I understand what you are doing.
The dinghy, a glued lap ply clinker job, has led (and is leading) quite a hard life, but we have had some interesting local failures.
The "osmosis" effect on the bottom when it spent its first winter afloat - the blisters even smelled like grp boat pox!
The small localised patch of rot in way of the aft bouyancy tank when it spent several years inverted over the skylight on deck. I just stuck my finger through it - quite localised, due to rain water getting into a crack in the epoxy coating, unspotted due to the antifouling paint.
The gradual shedding of the epoxy coating below the waterline when it went back to living afloat.
As of now, its still epoxy coated internally and of course in way of the buoyancy tanks, but the topsides are Coelan and the bottom is alkyd paint.
Conclusion is epoxy encapsuation does indeed build a strong, light boat, and a very pretty one, but you have to guard against abrasion, and the effects of salt and fresh water, frost and sunlight should your guard against abrasion fail.
LostinFrance
Well-Known Member
Re: The Gougeon Brothers approach
Thats interesting about the osmosis. I have never seen that, but I agree about the toughness of epoxy, it does need to be watched. Certainly unfilled epoxy is not as hard as I would wish. Like everything else, it depends on how well you do the job.
And I appreciate that your original answer was sincere. Thank you, it appears that here at least opinion is solidly behind the bond breaker tape. As I have said, I'm not going to take a chance after all my hard work.
Thats interesting about the osmosis. I have never seen that, but I agree about the toughness of epoxy, it does need to be watched. Certainly unfilled epoxy is not as hard as I would wish. Like everything else, it depends on how well you do the job.
And I appreciate that your original answer was sincere. Thank you, it appears that here at least opinion is solidly behind the bond breaker tape. As I have said, I'm not going to take a chance after all my hard work.
pvb
Well-Known Member
\"Fly in the ointment\" time...
OK, now it's time for a "fly in the ointment". I have a 1990 Hallberg Rassy. The caulking has lifted here and there on the deck. There's no evidence of breaker tape having been used originally. They did use silicone caulking though, so this may have different stretch properties.
OK, now it's time for a "fly in the ointment". I have a 1990 Hallberg Rassy. The caulking has lifted here and there on the deck. There's no evidence of breaker tape having been used originally. They did use silicone caulking though, so this may have different stretch properties.
steve_cronin
N/A
Re: \"Fly in the ointment\" time...
yes it does
Steve Cronin
yes it does
Steve Cronin
pvb
Well-Known Member
In that case...
In that case, I'd thoroughly recommend the use of silicone rubber caulking. It's very durable stuff.
In that case, I'd thoroughly recommend the use of silicone rubber caulking. It's very durable stuff.
steve_cronin
N/A
Re: Holes
I was referring to a curving fore to aft. When teak is retro-fitted to boats who's decks curve UP from midships to the ends, water will inevitably stand against any sort of gunwale, upstand or moulded-in toerail and then it is only a matter of time before it gets under the timber.
Steve Cronin
I was referring to a curving fore to aft. When teak is retro-fitted to boats who's decks curve UP from midships to the ends, water will inevitably stand against any sort of gunwale, upstand or moulded-in toerail and then it is only a matter of time before it gets under the timber.
Steve Cronin
jimbaerselman
Well-Known Member
Re: Holes
My deck was flat fore and aft with no puddling problems. But slightly convex laterally, with clear limber holes which didn't prevent draining. Good design and construction. I don't see what you're on about here, except you obviously don't like decks with an added teak surface.
Which is a fair enough point of view. They are expensive - I guess the annualised cost for a 12m boat to be around £1,000 a year, since most 'add-on' decks (if well used or over-scrubbed) have to be replaced about every 20 to 25 years.
Apologies BTW, my site has lost some function for the mo,
My deck was flat fore and aft with no puddling problems. But slightly convex laterally, with clear limber holes which didn't prevent draining. Good design and construction. I don't see what you're on about here, except you obviously don't like decks with an added teak surface.
Which is a fair enough point of view. They are expensive - I guess the annualised cost for a 12m boat to be around £1,000 a year, since most 'add-on' decks (if well used or over-scrubbed) have to be replaced about every 20 to 25 years.
Apologies BTW, my site has lost some function for the mo,