Catamaran newbie - sailing and mooring tips please

ninky

ninky

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Just taken ownership of a Mk 3 Hirondelle. Had our first sail delivering her from Emsworth to Gosport on Sunday. A bit of trouble tacking her round on the first attempt - two hulls requiring greater speed on the turn than my Jag 22 it seems. Am after tips on boat handling from any multihull sailors - no big scare stories please, have already freaked myself out with all the drawings of capsized cats and talk of inverted escape hatches in my Multihull seamanship book. We are just going to be pottering about the Solent on the slab reefing main and roller genoa for a good while yet.

Swing mooring buoys - what do you do for longterm swing mooring use? I currently have her on one chain over one of the bow rollers, with a rope looped through from the other bow. I thought a second chain on a swivel from the buoy would be a good idea, but the mooring owners seem to think it will be a tangle risk and better to stick with rope for the second bow, possibly cleated further down the one chain.

Nicola
 
Reef by the numbers, reef for the gusts not the average wind.

For tacking, it often helps to back the jib and carve the turn. Also, easing the main as you tack can help as it de-powers and doesn't have so much rounding up force (this was essential on one tri I sailed). Just be aware it'll never tack as cleanly as a good mono.

If you are flying a hull you've got too much sail up ;). Worth spending some time on a big beach cat to get the feel of things.

Every cat I've sailed has had a bridle - also acts as a snubber.
 
I have seen a cat moored to a fairly short strop onto the forward cross-beam. This placed the buoy between the hulls and obviously the length was critical to avoid contact with the hulls. Don't know whether a Hirondelle will ride like that, if the cross-beam were too far aft she might not weathercock as she should...

Rob.
 
I owned a Hirondelle mk 111 and it was a wonderful boat , she was moored in Southampton water on fore and aft buoys ,
I made up 2 x strops so she sat centrally to the trots .

2 x bow and 2 x stern , this, naturally , divides the loads between two cleats -always better, 50 % loads .

They are light boats so will sit happily on 3 strand 18/20mm.
make yourself a bridle for anchoring with a chain hook so she will always sit centrally to the anchor / buoy .

lovely boats , enjoy !
grafozz
 
Agree with pteron, loose off the main sail as you enter the tack and keep the jib/genoa backed until the bows are blowing off. If you do stall 'in irons' reverse the helm and the boat will sail backwards onto the new tack.
In the books it always tells you to bear away if hit by a gust, you will need to test it but I always found it safer and more instinctive to head up (unless on a broad reach).
If it's boisterous, it can pay to tack the centreboards, windward board down/leeward board up.
I always used a heavy rope bridle to each bow on a swinging mooring, chain is too messy (personal opinion). Clip the bridles together when leaving the buoy, they won't then get tangled.
Best tip, enjoy it.
 
Thanks very much - I think we are really going to enjoy this boat :)

So whereabouts should I clip / cleat the bridle(s)? Is the aim to even the load out between the two hulls? I'm guessing I should also be careful with keeping even ballast across the hulls in terms of stowing heavy items etc.
 
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ninky said:
So whereabouts should I clip / cleat the bridle(s)? Is the aim to even the load out between the two hulls? I'm guessing I should also be careful with keeping even ballast across the hulls in terms of stowing heavy items etc.
Click to expand...
This was on an Iroquois cat...
The arms of the bridle want to be equal otherwise the boat will tend to range about. Similarly, when anchored, you need to try to get the arms of the bridle central otherwise you will need a lot more swinging room and won't be popular in crowded anchorages.
We had a big (10") cleat on the centre of each bow and fairleads on both sides of the bow. There was also a bow roller on each bow. So anchor chain went over a roller and anchoring or mooring strops went through the inner fairleads and onto the cleats.
Yes try to even out the stowage of heavy items but catamarans are all about excluding weight if you want to get the best out of the boat.
 
There's lots of fun to be had from a Hirondelle, but there are also a few 'gotchas' which are likely to catch you ( and most others ) out. It may be worthwhile 'being ahead of the game'....

Most multihullers find themselves, at some point, running downwind with way too much mainsail up, the sail pressed hard against the lee shrouds, and the gusty breeze now far too strong to risk turning beam-on. There is a temptation to continue in the hope the gusts will ease enough, but one realistic outcome of that is just going faster until one bow digs in, the boat slows dramatically - and the apparent wind in the mainsail doubles.

A very prominent and knighted multihull sailor found himself, and his crew, in exactly that situation charging across Biscay in a growing storm and a 92' catamaran a couple of decades ago. So also did the deeply-experienced Multihull Class Winner of the Fastnet Race a dozen years ago. And many others...

So, how to deal with the problem when it arises? There will be a reluctance to send someone to the mast in an attempt to haul the mainsail down against considerable friction, for one will instinctively know that all the crew weight is needed right at the back. It is possible to release much of the wind-load in the mainsail by the old bargees' technique of 'scandalising the main'. That means hoisting the main boom skywards - at least 45° - using the topping lift, which is led back to the cockpit for this purpose, as is the main halyard. In order for this to be achieved, the mainsheet needs to be considerably longer than one would need in ordinary usage.....

Once this has achieved the desired effect - slowing the boat considerably without stuffing the bows in up to the mast - one of the crew can go forward and haul the mainsail down by hand 'cos the friction will now be considerably reduced.

Should one consider this manoeuvre might be needed when single-handed or accompanied by an unskilled/uncertain crew, then another old trick can be used..... Run a line from the head of the mainsail down beside the luff to a turning block by the mastfoot, and then back to the cockpit. This 'downhaul' can then be used, as the name suggests, to haul the sail down from the safety of the cockpit and assisted, if need be and with care, by a sheet winch.

Enjoi! ;)
 
oldbilbo said:
Run a line from the head of the mainsail down beside the luff to a turning block by the mastfoot, and then back to the cockpit. This 'downhaul' can then be used, as the name suggests, to haul the sail down from the safety of the cockpit and assisted, if need be and with care, by a sheet winch.

Enjoi! ;)
Click to expand...

That's a really good suggestion. Thanks.
 
I had a cat a long time ago. Home made at 23 by 12ft. The thing about cats as has already been mentioned is the problem of being overpowered. A keel boat will let you know it is overpowered by leaning over and generally behaving disgracefully. The cat when the wind comes up just leaps along in a joyful manner going very fast. This belies the fact that you are loading the rig incredibly. I destroyed 2 masts in as many years before I got one strong enough and or I got smarter. Also of course there is the risk of bow in and capsizing. So you must as skipper either have the instruments and know the numbers that matter or be very wary of lifting a hull or of going fast. I would suggest perhaps a 10knot speed limit or even less. That will call for serious sail reduction. Get a cheap GPS for speed indication.
As said tacking is a pain. I found that usually backing the jib ie hold off releasing until you have the main full on the new tack was all that was needed. In rough water you might find even this is not enough . Watch for any tendency to go backwards and ease the main sheet as said.
I hope you enjoy your cat I have to confess I ended up with a trailer sailer for various reasons and I love the windward sailing ability of the little TS but the cat certainly had advantages. olewill
 
You can also give yourself a fright if sailing a running reach and decide to make a turn towards windward, sudden increase in pressure on the rig and rapid acceleration.
If it's a planned turn douse the jib and let the main right out.

Distribution of weight on a cat is critical both in balance between hulls and fore and aft loading. Keep the ends light for better handling in a chop. but MOST important is to avoid ANY weight you do not need.

Good luck and fair winds. :)
 
A bridle is just about compulsory kit for a Catamaran. We have ours rigged permanently with a fitting on the inside of each hull just under the bridge deck and chain hook right in the middle. the is put into the chain when we are sure the anchor is set and we let out enough chain to leave a loop behind the hook, this avoids and snatching and provides weight on both sides of the hook ensuring it's secure.

When not in use the fixed bridle is simply pulled up through the gap in the rail and pulled back to the winch so the rope lays flat on the deck. When sailing, it's stowed in the front hand rail.

Good luck and fair winds. :)
 
The Mk1 was over rigged and over canvassed, the Mk3 was much more conservative, you'd have as much trouble capsizing it as you would your old monohull. They're a delightful boat, well mannered and suitable for gentle pottering without giving a fig for how the weight is distributed. Sailing a small cat like that is relaxing and rewarding but you get almost none of the feedback you would from a monohull.

As for mooring, make up a bridle from the hulls to a single point, and use it for the swinging mooring or attaching to your anchor chain.

And ignore the doomsayers, if you fly a hull or burry the nose you'll be the world's first Hirondelle Mk3 to do it, stick the weight wherever you want to and enjoy the coastal pottering. The Mk1 was a handful, but well sorted out by the time yours was made. Almost every cat to capsize has been an Iroquois, the damn things need floats on top of the mast - stupid design for a cruising yacht in my opinion.
 
Cheers Lazy Kipper. Reassuring to hear positive things about the Mk 3. She certainly seems a good choice for us from my research - wouldn't fancy having to faff with dagger boards and the like, although I guess the little keels do give a deeper draft (still really shallow - 76cm - for a boat of her size).

The main reason for getting her was I wanted to keep OH on side with the sailing, and he was getting pretty fed up with accommodation in my Jag 22 (which is a great small sailing boat imho but more for diehard sailing lovers). OH loves the Hirondelle, and even I have to admit she is a lot more comfortable for a couple when spending time on the mooring - plenty of room in the cockpit and on deck for friends too.

If anyone has nervous partner, my experience so far is a cat is a great option (don't tell them about pitchpoling!) - doing 7+ knots to windward in a F4/5 on Sunday and not being keeled over, or having things slide about in the cabin, is quite different to sailing a mono.

Nicola
 
I hope its acceptable to resurrect a thread like this?
Its just it seems to have exactly the right kind of participants for my questions.

I have been offered a Hirondelle at a "project" price and am very interested.
However I am aware that the mk1 has a bit of a rep.
To be honest the owner isn't certain if its a mk1 or a mk2. (any tips on identification?)

So, I see on this thread already the excellent advice on the scandalising of the main and the pull-down idea.
Both of which I would definitely implement.

However, I suppose, my first question is .. Should I ?
I do have an OH to consider too and don't want to put her off etc.

I'm a competent sailor so, once I know what I should be doing I'd be confident enough.
But I do sail in an area that produces quite a swell on a regular basis...

Would I just be driving myself mad with this boat?

Thanks
Vida
 
Lazy Kipper said:
The Mk1 was over rigged and over canvassed, the Mk3 was much more conservative, you'd have as much trouble capsizing it as you would your old monohull. They're a delightful boat, well mannered and suitable for gentle pottering without giving a fig for how the weight is distributed. Sailing a small cat like that is relaxing and rewarding but you get almost none of the feedback you would from a monohull.

As for mooring, make up a bridle from the hulls to a single point, and use it for the swinging mooring or attaching to your anchor chain.

And ignore the doomsayers, if you fly a hull or burry the nose you'll be the world's first Hirondelle Mk3 to do it, stick the weight wherever you want to and enjoy the coastal pottering. The Mk1 was a handful, but well sorted out by the time yours was made. Almost every cat to capsize has been an Iroquois, the damn things need floats on top of the mast - stupid design for a cruising yacht in my opinion.
Click to expand...

+1 yep sailed one of those, don't worry.

I suggest you take her out in a blow with a strong experienced crew and push her a bit with hands on uncleared sheets, that should put your mind at rest.
I finished up crewing one tacking into 45 knots, never worried, yeh we did reef it :)
 
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