Car engine in boat

[zappah]

Firstly let me apologise and I'm sure this subjects been done to death!

But I just need some confirmation on what I'm planning to do

People seem to be rather keen when doing this, to use a cast engine rather than an ali engine, I guess for oxidistion?

In that case I'll use a Ford Pinto rather than the 2.0 Zetec both produce the same power with about the same things done.

I plan to use a closed loop cooling system, so water is pumped out the river/sea around a rad and back out (I've heard the stern drive unit has means built in to circulate) then part of the rad (two cores if you like) the sealed engine system. got that bit no problems, this rules out rusting problems with core plugs, gaskets... so fourth

Closed bowl carb, 38DGAS carb not only produces good results with the pinto but its closed bowl, hense why the banger racers/pit cars use them to abide with FIA regs.

Torque and power charictor of the engine, being a boat wants to be tuned for low end torque, not a problem theres a stupid amount of cam choice out there for the Pinto

Sparks from the dizzy, starter, alternator. I'm going for megajolt on the engine (DIY fit 3D mapable ignition system) witch runs from coilpacks, a crank sensor and edis modual (no dizzy to spark there then)

As for the starter and alternator... my old mans boat (Falson SPC23) has an engine room fan witch must be turned on prior to starting the engine for 10-15mins and also turned on if your running for more than say an hour, this is odv to vent the engine bay, why can't I just fit that, instead of going to the trouble of spending ££££'s on a special starter and alternator? Falcon did this from the factory its not a mod, I however dont know if the starter and alternator has a flame defuser on them...

Unless I've missed anything, please say if I have.

The final thing is the exhaust manifold, witch I'm in the dark about it has to be said. Does a boats exhaust manifold contain a one way valve to stop water entering the cylinders when stopping the engine, as it exits under the water right? is this the only difference or is there something else as well?

Many many thanks for taking the time to read my post!

 

[dustywings]

I am sure there will be more educated members than me but a few observations. From a cooling point of view you need one or more heat exchangers of which there are always some second hand ones on eBay or boats and outboards. If you have a look at the lancing marine website they have a lot of info and parts to assist with marinising car engines.
The engine room fan is to remove any petrol fumes that might be ignited from any electrical sparks not only eminating from starter or alternator but the ignition system itself.
The only other thing you will need if using a carb rather than injection is a flame arrestor on the top.
The manifold in a mercruiser for instance does have a flap valve to prevent the backflow of water but the design should be such that it doesn't get that far in the first place really.
Good luck

 

[Bassplayer]

A pinto engine is very heavy and tall. I would go for a Zetec, which is lighter and more compact or even a Duratec - you can use the original injection system with a mappable ecu from Emerald, Megajolt etc. This will give around 170 bhp - to get this sort of power from a pinto is hard work and impossible on a DGAS carb without a very rorty cam. For marine use you need an engine with a steady and slow tickover for gear engagement and manoeuvering. This would be easy with injection mapping. Also injection will preclude most of the safety worries that you have.
The exhaust will need water injection to cool it - you could possibly use the original manifold with a tapped boss on the end to inject the water. The rest of the manifold could be heat wrapped to contain extranious heat.
Good luck!