Canvas / Sail adhesive

[Lodds]

Guys, I have some heavy canvas (the type used for Spray Hood) I have a couple of projects that i want to use it for. I also have an old mainsail and foresail that I can cut up for other projects. I don't have access to an industrial sewing machine so want to try gluing the seams instead of stitching them. I did ask my missus to sew them on her sewing machine but the job was too much and bent a needle then nearly broke the machine itself.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to what glue would be sufficiently strong?

I have heard "Tear Mender" is quiet strong but advertising is not really that reliable.

All thoughts and recommendations would be appreciated.

I do realise that thread is the ideal and short of buy an industrial machine i have to stick (no pun intended) to glue.

 

[Jonas]

It is possible to sew without a machine.

 

[prv]

It is possible to sew without a machine.

It'll take bloody ages for something the size of a sprayhood though!

I'd rather spend the £50 for a solid old all-steel domestic machine that will handle such fabric, if the missus's one is a modern plastic thing that won't.

(My machine is a 1960s Brother with chrome tail fins, it cost £45 from a specialist dealer in 2013 and will sew several layers of acrylic canvas as used for covers/stackpacks/hoods.)

Pete

 

[Lodds]

Thanks Pete
What model is your Brother

 

[jwilson]

Most sewing machine repairers will find and sell you an old solidly built metal-framed domestic machine with straight and zig-zag stitch from about £50 upwards: Jones, Brothers, Singer, Janome, Pfaff etc. With the right needle and thread these will cope with sprayhoods etc and many minor sail repairs.

 

[phanakapan]

Seriously, you have to sew, no glue will be up to it. I'm lucky enough to have Sailrite sewing machine, but as others have said, you can pick up a metal framed domestic machine pretty cheaply. PM me if you like, I recently spent a couple of months working at a canvaswork outfit- and although I am in NO way any sort of expert, I might have a couple of tips for you.

 

[prv]

Thanks Pete
What model is your Brother

I don't really know - but here's a newbie thread I posted on a sewing forum when I first got it

http://www.thesewingforum.co.uk/showthread.php?p=405118&mode=linear

I never did figure out what the pointy-teeth lever was for, and I don't use the buttonhole knob, but I've happily made all kinds of things with ordinary straight and zigzag stitch.

Pete

 

[Lodds]

Thanks guys for your input. Off now to try and find something suitable.

 

[Iliade]

While you're out there looking, pick up some sailmaker's double sided tape. It makes it a lot easier to line everything up and avoid wrinkles etc.

 

[Lodds]

While you're out there looking, pick up some sailmaker's double sided tape. It makes it a lot easier to line everything up and avoid wrinkles etc.

Great tip, thank-you

 

[duncan99210]

Follow on to the sailmakers double sided tape (seam tape or stickum). It comes in two widths that I know of, aim for the thinner stuff. Second point, don't sew through the tape: the adhesive will gum up the needle before you know what happening and this will mess up the thread tension........ You'll often find a double row of stitching on projects; one line each side of the seam tape! The stuff is truly invaluable and takes the place of pins in normal sewing.

 

[Lodds]

don't sew through the tape: the adhesive will gum up the needle before you know what happening and this will mess up the thread tension.

Another good point well made. I would have happily sewn through the tape.

Thank-you

 

[PurpleKate]

I sew Acrylic canvas (the type used for Spray hoods / dodgers etc) all the time on my domestic sewing machine (Janome) the secret I think its to buy Denim strength needles which are stronger. I just accept every now again the needle breaks, usually as they get blunt they break - you get 5 in a pack anyway. The machine is still going good and strong and able to switch back to domestic projects. Maybe you were unlucky when you tried and had a blunt and weak needle. If the project is out in the open the other tip is to get UV protected thread as normal cotton just rots after a few seasons. Its a level more tricky than normal cotton and I only ever get it to work as the top thread so I just ensure the top thread is always on the outside.

 

[TimBennet]

Follow on to the sailmakers double sided tape (seam tape or stickum). It comes in two widths that I know of, aim for the thinner stuff.

Second point, don't sew through the tape: the adhesive will gum up the needle before you know what happening and this will mess up the thread tension........

The double sided tape (Venture Tape) comes in at least half a dozen widths from 6mm to 50mm. Use the thickness you need to hold the two components together while you hump the project around and line it up under the sewing machine. Seams coming apart are annoying and a waste of time.

There's no chance of not sewing through the tape. All sails have tape the full width of the seam overlap so the machines are running through the tape all day, every day. The secret to not getting gummed up is MacLube.

 

[JClarkes]

The double sided tape (Venture Tape) comes in at least half a dozen widths from 6mm to 50mm. Use the thickness you need to hold the two components together while you hump the project around and line it up under the sewing machine. Seams coming apart are annoying and a waste of time.

There's no chance of not sewing through the tape. All sails have tape the full width of the seam overlap so the machines are running through the tape all day, every day. The secret to not getting gummed up is MacLube.

Beat me to it. Venture tape is what you need. Makes life much easier. Then sew!