cant shift black stains off my teak

lanerboy

lanerboy

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hi all

i purchased some of the red and green teak cleaner and restorer made by semco products called 2 part cleaner

i have done the bathing platform but not sealed it just thought i would try the red and green stuff to spruce it up a bit before i do it properly next spring as it was disgustingly dirty and looked awfull

the thing is it has bought it up lovely in 95% of the platform but there are stainings that it has not shifted, almost like water marks that are dark in colour, one mark looks like a mop bucket has been placed on the platform for a period of time and it has gone dark and left an exact mould of the bucket base.

i have tried to do these areas 2 or 3 times even with neat red then neat green but too no avail it wont shift them

does anyone have any ideas regards getting the marks off before i email the company who make it

i have been told by another chap off another forum to maybe try oxalic acid has anyone else tried this chemical on teak or if not what have you used

many thanks shawn
 
The two part cleaner/brightener includes oxalic acid, so you've already tried it. Is it solid teak or veneer on plywood? If solid, you can sand it to remove the black marks. Is it an S37? If so, I think it may be veneer.
 
Dont think i would want to put anything else much stronger on the teak Shawn . try lightly sanding with 240 grit paper and see if its just on the surface or deeper into the wood .
 
This may be a stupid suggestion but, given that it is quite cold and damp at the moment, I wonder if it could possibly be that the wood hasn't quite fully dried out. Teak is a very odd wood and some parts of the teak may have retained more moisture than others.
 
If the marks look a bit like inground mould then you need to get, from a chandlery, what look like a stainless pan scouring product somewhat like wire wool but large strands - can't remember the name though. It will lift the marks and do virtually nothing to the teak.

PS; Wessex 2part, IMHO, is miles better than Semco 2 part
 
Nick_H said:
The two part cleaner/brightener includes oxalic acid, so you've already tried it. Is it solid teak or veneer on plywood? If solid, you can sand it to remove the black marks. Is it an S37? If so, I think it may be veneer.
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nick it is a s37 but its not veneer its definatly solid teak

ANDY59 said:
Dont think i would want to put anything else much stronger on the teak Shawn . try lightly sanding with 240 grit paper and see if its just on the surface or deeper into the wood .
Click to expand...

yes think this may be the next option andy but will do that in the spring i think

Steve Clayton said:
PS; Wessex 2part, IMHO, is miles better than Semco 2 part
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steve i thought the wessex 2 part cleaner was made by semco or so i was made to believe ????
 
Nick_H said:
The two part cleaner/brightener includes oxalic acid, so you've already tried it. Is it solid teak or veneer on plywood? If solid, you can sand it to remove the black marks. Is it an S37? If so, I think it may be veneer.
Click to expand...
That is the risk.
Try 80 grit on a random orbital. You want a coarse grit so the teak still is rough and provides grip underfoot. I would take it very easy..maybe just try to improve the stain rather than remove it.
The swim platform will go silver anyway, so maybe it then isnt so obvious.
Go a bit easy on the two part. That caulking isnt indestructible if you keep pouring acids onto it.
 
benjenbav said:
This may be a stupid suggestion but, given that it is quite cold and damp at the moment, I wonder if it could possibly be that the wood hasn't quite fully dried out. Teak is a very odd wood and some parts of the teak may have retained more moisture than others.
Click to expand...

+1

You can get the same effect from a doormat left on the teak, it kind of sweats the wood, leaving a darker patch where it has been unable to breath.

I would try a hairdryer to dry most of the moisture out, take your time though, you just want a warm breeze rather than getting it too hot.

Then with the 2 part (green) allow this to sit on the teak (without drying) for as long as you can, keep forcing the product into the grain allowing
the product to get down to the lower grain.
 
Last edited:
benjenbav said:
This may be a stupid suggestion but, given that it is quite cold and damp at the moment, I wonder if it could possibly be that the wood hasn't quite fully dried out. Teak is a very odd wood and some parts of the teak may have retained more moisture than others.
Click to expand...

Not stupid at all, that's almost certainly the answer. Same happens quite frequently on my teak decks.
 
benjenbav said:
This may be a stupid suggestion but, given that it is quite cold and damp at the moment, I wonder if it could possibly be that the wood hasn't quite fully dried out. Teak is a very odd wood and some parts of the teak may have retained more moisture than others.
Click to expand...

if thats the case i will wait till next year when it warms up and see if they go when dry

thanks for all the replies

shawn
 
Whitelighter said:
Be careful about sanding it. Saline use teak faced ply with a solid edge (as did fair line and others at the time) - It looks like solid wood but only the edge is
Click to expand...

Yep, my S37 had veneered ply, it was a 1996 boat i think so maybe they changed later, or maybe OP's boat has aftermarket teak.
 
Hi lanerboy,

I had green and black marks on Play d'eau's teak. No amount of non-chemical cleaners ever touched it.

In talking with Fleming Europe, I was recommended to use the Wessex treatment. I did, and the teak is now 100% perfect.

The black is more than likely mould, whilst the green is lytchen (spelling?). These areas show up when the teak is wet and generally didsappear when dry.

Oxalic acid? No - it makes teak go orange and looks dreadful.

I am now a convert to Wessex.

Piers
 
lanerboy said:
hi all

i purchased some of the red and green teak cleaner and restorer made by semco products called 2 part cleaner

i have done the bathing platform but not sealed it just thought i would try the red and green stuff to spruce it up a bit before i do it properly next spring as it was disgustingly dirty and looked awfull

the thing is it has bought it up lovely in 95% of the platform but there are stainings that it has not shifted, almost like water marks that are dark in colour, one mark looks like a mop bucket has been placed on the platform for a period of time and it has gone dark and left an exact mould of the bucket base.

i have tried to do these areas 2 or 3 times even with neat red then neat green but too no avail it wont shift them

does anyone have any ideas regards getting the marks off before i email the company who make it

i have been told by another chap off another forum to maybe try oxalic acid has anyone else tried this chemical on teak or if not what have you used

many thanks shawn
Click to expand...
Borocol, 3 in 1 mould remover, or Patio Magic will get rid, but not remove silver surface.
 
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