Can you adjust chilled water temp on a Condaria aircon unit?

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Sorry for the delete, editing posts on mobile just seems to delete them!

Mike - I have a Condria system too it also cuts out at 10 degrees and back on at 12.5. I was looking at the manual the other day and I recall mention of these settings. I'll dig them out in the morning and let you know
 
Hi Mike

Here you go - hope this helps

2EcoNIR.jpg


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markc said:
Here you go - hope this helps
Click to expand...
It sure does, many thanks for sharing those pages! :encouragement:
If it weren't too cheecky, I'd be tempted to ask you to post also any other pages which in your opinion are worth having, for those who have the same equipment... :o

Anyway, fwiw, I just checked my system (PCWM/FCL 9002, 2004 vintage), and got the slightly different results below (in red).
I can't swear that the system came as follows from the factory, but I'm very skeptic that anyone ever messed with it.
I would rather guess that Condaria checked the first installation on each boat model of the yard, and then slightly adapted the settings for future supplies of the equipment.

For the records, the panel doesn't show the other set points (i.e. 12 and 13 for cooling, and 38/40/41 for heating), so I can only suppose that they change consistently with the base set point - i.e. if my system goes in standby at 8 rather than 10, it probably starts again at 10 rather than 12, but I can't be positive about it.
I'll check that next time I'm using the a/c - atm, the temperature is as perfect as it gets without it, courtesy of a gentle mistral breeze! :cool:

Btw, it was also interesting to see that the compressor hours are (relatively) low for the age of the boat: about 500 on C1 and 300 on C2.
Difference which at a guess has to see with some usage on dock connection restricted to 16A.
Good to know that too, 'cause I'll rather use C2 next time... :)

6fIAffkK_o.jpg
 
MapisM said:
I'm afraid you might achieve the opposite result, if you think about it.
The fact that the central machine reaches its operating temp and cycles frequently indicates that it's doing its job nicely, if we leave aside the water temp for a minute. In spite of that, the air handlers can't bring the internal temp down to your desired level.
Btw, if that's what happens, waddumean "less cycling" of the air handlers? They are bound to run constantly, i.e. with no cycling at all.
Regardless, in this situation, the air handlers are to be blamed, imho.
Are you sure that their filters aren't clogged, restricting the air flow?
Alternatively, the units might be undersized and/or badly placed, but that's not the sort of corner cutting that I would expect from Ferretti.

Anyway, let's assume that the filters are ok, and for some reason the circulating water temp is set too high.
Let's also assume that by lowering it you get a more effective cooling - possibly reaching the 23deg (or whatever) that you wish to have.
The result is bound to be that the air handlers would cycle MORE than before, not less!
Otoh, possibly the compressors might need to run more constantly, hence cycling less.
But I suppose that the more annoying inside noise is from the air handlers...
Or can you hear the compressors from the main cabin even if there's the crew area between it and the e/r?
Click to expand...
Nope the air handlers shut down once the desired temp is reached; in other words they stop blowing air. If the air handlers stop blowing air then by definition the temp of the chilled water will then rise slower and the need for the compressors to cut in will be reduced. Of course that will be offset somewhat by a greater loss through the chilled water pipe circuit if the temp of the chilled water is lower

Anyway I have learnt today that the 10-12.5 degC cycle is correct - see next post:D
 
Special thanks here go to farsco and markc for their assistance

On farsco's recommendation, I did email Edd at MBS and he is indeed a super helpful guy. He has sent me the user manual for my particular Condaria unit and confirmed that whilst earlier Condaria units did operate at lower temps, my particular unit is designed to cycle in the 10-12.5deg range and therefore it is indeed correctly set up and there is no scope for reducing the temp of the chilled water

And also many thanks to markc for posting pages from his Condaria manual which also confirms a similar temp cycling range

The air handler filters and air ducting have all been checked and cleaned recently and therefore I can only conclude that my aircon system is operating to its optimum performance and the plain fact is that 48000 Btu is perhaps not sufficient for the task of cooling the saloon of my boat on a Med summer day. Perhaps I should blame the first owner of my boat for not specifying the 64000 Btu tropical aircon upgrade;)
 
vas said:
further if I may say so, 23C is WAY TOO LOW, but I understand you cold blooded northerners want it that way.
It's beyond me how you survive the aft deck day time temps though :rolleyes:
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Vas do you have a car with automatic climate control? If so, what temp do you set it at?:D:D
 
So I suppose you shut off the cabins and close the blinds !

My cabin has the blinds across the top hatches all the time and the saloon always has the blinds down. Huge difference

Other than the first 30 mins I always run on one compressor pack ( if the marina metre power !!)
 
jrudge said:
So I suppose you shut off the cabins and close the blinds !

My cabin has the blinds across the top hatches all the time and the saloon always has the blinds down. Huge difference
Click to expand...
Yeah I know. The blinds on the side and aft windows are usually always closed but I have a constant fight with the SWMBO about putting the windscreen covers on because she moans about those spoiling the view out:rolleyes:
 
Sadly there is no insulation in a boat.

I can see why to a point but I am sure they could do better. There are plenty of voids and if used wisely I am sure heat soaking could be better managed.
 
MapisM said:
I see your point, particularly ref. your greenhouse-like large side glasses.
Otoh, I wouldn't hold my breath ref. any practical difference you could achieve, assuming that the cut out temp can be lowered.
If in hot weather your compressors are already working continuously, by definition they couldn't cool further the closed circuit water, irrespective of the cut out setting... :confused:
Click to expand...

This was the first year I used my boats AC system extensively as we have had super nice weather with temperatures frequently above 30C during the whole of July here in Finland. The system is very efficient (Condaria PWCM/CO 6001, 24000 btu in a Ferretti 480). I actually adjusted the temp down from 10 to 8C, not that this would increase the max cooling effect overall as stated above but because now the blowers run at lower speeds with less noise. To initially cool down the main saloon I switch off the cabin air handlers.

Btw what is the best way to winterise the system? Normally I store my boat in a warm storage however in case it would be exposed to freezing temperatures it would be good to know how this best can be done.
 
In theory the cooling loop should be full of a. Antifreeze mixture for this reason

Most I have had seem to require occasional top ups ( including a new boat ) so I suspect most are dilute at best after many years
 
jrudge said:
In theory the cooling loop should be full of a. Antifreeze mixture for this reason

Most I have had seem to require occasional top ups ( including a new boat ) so I suspect most are dilute at best after many years
Click to expand...

Mine is connected to the freshwater system behind a valve. Topping up is done by opening the valve and then closing it when the pressure has reached the desired value. Int his cae there cannot be any antifreeze there as it could mix with the freshawater.
 
Mike iirc in my €18 K retro fit of Aircon the chiller a single 42 K btu was under €4 k .
They do 42 and 62 K chillers in modules.
The guy is based near Antibes .
So a pair of 42 ,s will give you 84 K btu fitted to run your existing air handlers.
They are virtually silent and use a lot less amps to boot
You circulation pumps make more noise .

He’s doing a huge trade retro fitting this stuff .Ripping out loads of OEM in newish boats ,mainly shore / geny power tripping reasons by charterers visiting marinas in high season around the Med .

Not him but a similar set up across the pond for the very same reasons

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9ExVgY5zEeg
 
Portofino said:
Mike iirc in my €18 K retro fit of Aircon the chiller a single 42 K btu was under €4 k .
They do 42 and 62 K chillers in modules.
The guy is based near Antibes .
So a pair of 42 ,s will give you 84 K btu fitted to run your existing air handlers.
Click to expand...
Interesting thanks L. So if the same air handlers are used what does that change? The same volume of air at a colder temp?
 
He will come and do a full survey
May add another handler in the saloon or / and split it
62 K for down below /62 K for the upper saloon + sufficient air handlers ?
 
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