Can I use a router to remove sikaflex?

[burgundyben]

I've got some cockpit floor boards that are ply with 1/4 teak, I want to remove the sika from the gaps, re sika and sand to give them a thorough tidy up.

Can I used a router to run along the sika lines to remove it?

I ground a 1/4 chisel (now v sharp courtesy of the rexon grinder) down to the right width and it bloody hard going!

 

[Captain Coochie]

I would say you can but will need to make a sled for the router ( hold the base ) If you try to do it free hand it will want to scoot all over the place . The bit will probably burn the sika out so do a little at a time .

 

[burgundyben]

Indeed, I thought I'd clamp a straight bit of something to use as a fence for each run along, take a couple of mins to set up but then should whizz along in no time!

I'll give it a whirl!

 

[sarabande]

I reckon that it will not work if the sikalex is "live" and not dried out and hardened by age. A rotary blade relies on the material being cut remaining still and solid, so that the cutting edge can slice into it.

I bet it "grabs" and burns, or twists the router out of your hands.


Willing, and interested, to be proved wrong, though. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

EDIT
I've found something about working with Sikaflex adhesives. Not sure if it directly relevant but they recommend the use of reciprocating cutting motions/

http://www.sikaindustry.com/ind/ipd.brochures

It's the pdf on Sika-Slik

 

[daveharis]

The routers with variable speed are good,gives a bit more control over the weapon - I mean tool.

 

[Adamastor]

I might even use a skilsaw on the grooves. Sika's funny stuff- it seems like it's gonna be all Chuck Norris until a little heat gets applied! The heat from the saw will soften/melt it enough that the remainer will clean out with a rake-tool (modified power-hacksaw blade, shaped on a grinder)
If that doesn't do it enough, methylene chloride stripper covered with plastic sheeting (garbage-bags) to trap the fumes on the wood for longer ought to work. Satan's Snot seems to attack most sticky things, so it should get rid of the residue after the sawing out.
I reckon the margin for error's less with a skilsaw because you're not going to try and replicate the joinery work in your deck like you might do with a router, so you'll naturally leave bigger margins for error!

 

[burgundyben]

Thanks all.

We'll see how I get on.

I've started with the smallest part just in case....

 

[absit_omen]

Good luck. Let us know how you get on. (Can you type with just two thumbs?).

 

[markgharris]

Cleaned out the seams on a 50 odd foot boat last year - for straight seams I adapted a skil saw - bending the teeth out to increase the kerf width to that of the seams to clean. Worked really well!

 

[oakum]

A fein multimaster has its own deck sealant remover - I think there is a cheaper version of the fein mm on the market - there was an earlier thread somewhere.

http://www.feinmultimaster.co.uk/multimaster_accessories_specialty.htm

 

[Poignard]

The Fein Multinaster and the special seam raking tool works very well. Bosch now have a similar machine but I'm not sure if they offer the special seam raking tool.

 

[Ardenfour]

router and 1/4 bit worked perfectly for me - had to clamp a straight edge for each seam, and watch the direction of cut

 

[ccscott49]

Either the fein multimaster (rolls royce) or a battery circuolar saw, with two blades in it, teeth staggered (jaguar). The latter is how my bruv did the decks on a morcambe bay prawner, very effectively.

 

[burgundyben]

Well I've done the first of 4 cockpit sole boards.

The router worked a treat, no sign of the tool overheating, I had it on its slowest setting.

Clamped a piece of wood along the seam as a guide, checked both ends and went fot it!

I'll do the sika and then give it a good sand.

 

[sarabande]

nice neat work. I live and learn !

 

[Captain Coochie]

I was going to put a /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif but i thought better of it /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif