Can I make a U bolt without thermo treatment?

[eranb2]

Hi

I need to create new U bolts , where the shrouds join the deck chainplates .

I have the stainless steel 316 L but , do I need to heat it?
thermo treatment ?

How can I do it?

Thanks

 

[Twister_Ken]

Would buying them seem like wimping out, then?

 

[JasB]

I needed to bend some coach bolts by 90 degrees, I tried doing it cold, but they broke, so I heated them up, and no probs...is that what you are on about? or have I got the wrong end of the stick?

 

[eranb2]

well, I don't know.
thing that when You bent the steel you are damaging it as well.
so , heating it twice is needed.

but I don't know .....

 

[jhughes]

Heat to red hot, bend and then allow to cool slowly ie don't dunk it in a bucket of water.

 

[PuffTheMagicDragon]

I tend to make most things that I need, if I can, when I can.

I have made many things out of a variety of metals, among which were different types of stainless steel(s). I have ample facilities for metalwork, including machine tools.

But, when it comes to something that is holding up the mast, I do not wish to have a weak link with unknown characteristics. For such a critical item I would go for certified quality from a reputable maker. Wichard does cost three or four times than Chinese - but I have yet to see one fail when used properly.

Economise by all means - but do so in a responsible manner. Believe me, losing a mast through a failed metal fitting is no joke. I've been there. Brother's old boat. Never went sailing with him again after that! /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Maybe I'm easily impressed? Maybe I am a coward? Who knows? /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[kengill]

Sounds to me like spoiling the ship for a ha'porth of tar.

Too critical an item for me to try and make without proper temperature control and post heat treatment, besides how are you going to roll the threads? Before or afterwards? Do you plan to do a proper batch test? Do you have a calibrated tensile strength tester?

Methinks Twister Ken has the right of it.

 

[William_H]

Well obviously provided the steel rod is over sized to the job required then it will not be spoiing the ship for halfpenwth of tar. Heating will make the bending easier and as said before cool it slowly.
However if you can bend it cold then that should be fine.
If it were me however I would use a large saddle and straight bolts through the deck as some boats around here have. olewill

 

[cliff]

[ QUOTE ]
Heat to red hot, bend and then allow to cool slowly ie don't dunk it in a bucket of water.

[/ QUOTE ]Why? what do you think will happen to the ss 316L rod by quenching it?
--------------------

"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"
sailroom <span style="color:red">The place to auction your previously loved boatie bits</span>

 

[jhughes]

From 12 years experience as a Blacksmith and steel fabricator I have learnt never to quench hot steel unless I am hardening and tempering it whatever the grade unless its from a guaranteed source. On numerous occasions I have quenched supposedly low carbon and stainless grades of steel only for it to fracture. Unless I have a certificate of uniformity for the material I leave it to cool slowly. If I have a guaranteed piece of 316 I will anneal after working by heating and quenching but only if I see a supply certificate.
There is a lot of crap steel out there, and I was just trying to prevent a mishap.

 

[vyv_cox]

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