carl170
Well-Known Member
Without sounding stupid, what does that actually do? If there are plastic parts, will they not just melt?!
Regards
Carl
Can anyone identify what type of winch this is?
- Thread starter carl170
- Start date
Without sounding stupid, what does that actually do? If there are plastic parts, will they not just melt?!
Regards
Carl
Daydream believer
Well-Known Member
Personally i would not expect putting a drift down the handle hole would work because you are not exposing the end of the shaft
if you think about it the screw must be holding something on to the shaft. ie the base of the handle socket
Why not check to see if the handle socket is a seperate manufacture due to the machining required it may be an insert.
If not then put the screw back in the hole but release it a few turns & gently tap that. this would transfer the impact onto the shaft. But do not bend the screw or damage the screw threads
If you can find a cap head screw ( high tensile best) to fit, then hire a hub extractor from a tool shop for an hour. best to have a 4 jaw model rather than 3 jaw. 2 jaw is no good
then place the cap screw into the unit leaving it clear- ie not tight, say 6mm up
the hub extractor has a small "ball" on the end of the centre & this will locate in the allen key hole of the cap screw so it will not jump off. Then the jaws of the extractor will fit the top of the winch drum
Gently apply pressure & when a fair degree of torque has been applied tap the end of the extractor. the whole thing should give a bit. If it works release the cap screw a bit more & try again. Once something moves you will know if you are on the right track
If you have a job finding a whitworth cap screw then drill the existing hole a bit & tap it with an 8 mm metric tap & fit an 8mm cap head screw for the test. The first part of the hole would have to be 9mm so there is clearance for the screw before it met the shaft as you do not want to accidently join the 2 parts ( bottom of the winch socket & top of the shaft)
if you think about it the screw must be holding something on to the shaft. ie the base of the handle socket
Why not check to see if the handle socket is a seperate manufacture due to the machining required it may be an insert.
If not then put the screw back in the hole but release it a few turns & gently tap that. this would transfer the impact onto the shaft. But do not bend the screw or damage the screw threads
If you can find a cap head screw ( high tensile best) to fit, then hire a hub extractor from a tool shop for an hour. best to have a 4 jaw model rather than 3 jaw. 2 jaw is no good
then place the cap screw into the unit leaving it clear- ie not tight, say 6mm up
the hub extractor has a small "ball" on the end of the centre & this will locate in the allen key hole of the cap screw so it will not jump off. Then the jaws of the extractor will fit the top of the winch drum
Gently apply pressure & when a fair degree of torque has been applied tap the end of the extractor. the whole thing should give a bit. If it works release the cap screw a bit more & try again. Once something moves you will know if you are on the right track
If you have a job finding a whitworth cap screw then drill the existing hole a bit & tap it with an 8 mm metric tap & fit an 8mm cap head screw for the test. The first part of the hole would have to be 9mm so there is clearance for the screw before it met the shaft as you do not want to accidently join the 2 parts ( bottom of the winch socket & top of the shaft)
alahol2
Well-Known Member
I did prefix my remarks with "If you get to the point of writing them off". Yes, it's quite likely the plastic would melt but it can only really be the plastic that is fixing them together. If they come apart there's the possibility of getting a substitute plastic plain bearing, it's only a bit of tube.
JumbleDuck
Well-Known Member
Not necessarily. I had the underlever versions, and both turned clockwise. You may just have done something entertainingly terminal to the ratchet pawls if you're lucky, or the drums if you're not. I'm told that Harken pawls and springs fit, by the way.
mrming
Well-Known Member
I have Lewmar 6s as the sheet winches on my 23 footer. We use a 100% blade headsail when the wind is above 12 knots and they cope okay with tacking it when racing in our narrow river. They're not the most powerful but if you get the sail in before it fills that helps a lot. The crew are always complaining about the lack of two speeds though!
chewi
Well-Known Member
I don't think they are handed, so both port and stbd should turn freely clockwise.
carl170
Well-Known Member
I have Lewmar 6s as the sheet winches on my 23 footer. We use a 100% blade headsail when the wind is above 12 knots and they cope okay with tacking it when racing in our narrow river. They're not the most powerful but if you get the sail in before it fills that helps a lot. The crew are always complaining about the lack of two speeds though!
Can I ask what 23 footer?
Regards
Carl
PhillM
Well-Known Member
mrming
Well-Known Member
carl170
Well-Known Member
Very, Very Nice!
Quote from brochure "How many 23 foot boats do you see with a galley, ice box, sink, and 2 burner stove, directly across from a fully enclosable marine head which doubles as a working nav station with slide out table?"
Not mine - thats for sure!
If they are handled by size 6 winches, they should be OK on mine!
PhilM - I take it the insides of the Gibbs are junk then ?(!)
Regards
Carl
mrming
Well-Known Member
The boat does indeed have all those things although it's fair to say it's "compact" down there
. It does sail beautifully though.I should add that the standard boats have Lewmar 16STs as the sheet winches and Lewmar 6s on the coach roof. On ours a previous owner switched them around and we find it works well as we have the beefier winches for trimming kites and tensioning halyards etc.
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Burnham Bob
Well-Known Member
all i can say is that a drift did separate my gibb winch when it was seized solid. plusgas might have helped a bit but if you take the screw out (and yes i think there is a washer too) you can see the central pillar and the fit onto the drum. i'm working from memory but the first year I did it i actually used a metal rod rather than dowel. i just happened to have a long enough piece of threaded rod which was an almost exact fit. after that the dowel sufficed when they stuck again but maybe you need to be a bit tougher. holding the waist of the winch between the planks on the workmate was easy enough but do be careful when the whole bottom plate comes off. i don't think there were any plastic bits on mine at all. just simple pawls and spring.
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