westerlylad
Active Member
Can anyone advise me how this fridge works please? I have one which appears to be lifeless whether 12v or 240v is selected. Cheers.
Camping Gaz Fridge CT125N
- Thread starter westerlylad
- Start date
pvb
Well-Known Member
It works on absorption cooling, which needs heat input (provided either by gas, 12v or 240v).
Absorption refrigerator - Wikipedia
Absorption refrigerator - Wikipedia
westerlylad
Active Member
Thanks pvb, I've found the 12v/240v switch, but I had no idea the fridge also ran on gas. The workings are buried deep behind some pretty substantial woodwork that I'll need to try to remove to gain access. So, far, neither the 12v or 24ov settings appear to result in any cooling.
Daverw
Well-Known Member
If neither works suspect the small heating element has failed, does it draw any current
Boathook
Well-Known Member
They can take quite a while to become noticeably cooler.
earlybird
Well-Known Member
I think the name provides a clue.
More seriously, are gas powered 'fridges a good idea on a boat? I know that they are used in caravans but do they use a rather inaccesible pilot light, which would worry me. How would they be they be vented on a boat? Just seeking after knowledge.
Daverw
Well-Known Member
One of the problems I think on a boat is that the flame has to point at the thermocouple directly, at any angle of lean it will not. Also no form of flue so directly into cabin.
wombat88
Well-Known Member
Being used to gas fridges on campers I'm surprised there should be one on a boat for reasons already covered, unless it is set up for leccy only.
If they don't work old fridges of this sort can be brought back to life by leaving them upside down for a day or two. Stirs 'em up.
On 12v they can take ages to do anything.
If they don't work old fridges of this sort can be brought back to life by leaving them upside down for a day or two. Stirs 'em up.
On 12v they can take ages to do anything.
westerlylad
Active Member
Thanks for your replies so far. I've not yet checked the electrical side of things Daverw, as I am still in the process of dismantling the surrounding woodwork, but I don't think it is drawing current on the 12v side.
Good point earlybird, but when I spotted the name through a small hole in the cabinet, I thought that perhaps Camping Gaz did an electrical or compressor type fridge. I'm not even sure at this stage if it is connected to my gas pipework , but as you and Daverw and wombat88 are pointing out, a gas powered fridge on a boat is probably not the best idea. In any event, my gas is always turned off in the gas locker unless I'm actually cooking, so running a fridge on the gas would be problematic. As wombat says, it my have been installed to use only electricity.
Good point earlybird, but when I spotted the name through a small hole in the cabinet, I thought that perhaps Camping Gaz did an electrical or compressor type fridge. I'm not even sure at this stage if it is connected to my gas pipework , but as you and Daverw and wombat88 are pointing out, a gas powered fridge on a boat is probably not the best idea. In any event, my gas is always turned off in the gas locker unless I'm actually cooking, so running a fridge on the gas would be problematic. As wombat says, it my have been installed to use only electricity.
Graham376
Well-Known Member
Nine times out of ten that's the problem and an easy fix once it's out.
PetiteFleur
Well-Known Member
We have a 3 way fridge in our motorhome. Works well on gas but vents outside of course. Works on 240v if hooked up but 12v only maintains existing coldness. (12v only works when driving) Before we go out we turn the fridge on 240v overnight then 12v whilst driving, then 240v or gas depending if we have hookup. Gas not recommended for boats.
westerlylad
Active Member
Thanks to all who replied to my original question. I've now managed to get to the workings of the fridge and have found that:
1. It has never been connected to the gas supply, so presumably the original owner agreed with most of you that a gas powered fridge on a boat is not ideal.
2. It is also not connected up for 12v either, so presumably the original intention was that it would just be used when connected to shore power.
3. I've connected up my shore power lead and switched on. After about half an hour there was plenty of heat coming from the pipework at the back of the fridge but no sign at all of any cooling of the fridge element. Same situation after an hour by which time I had used about 0.1 kW.
I guess I have some other problem with the fridge, perhaps something to do with the refrigerant. (perhaps there isn't any!).
Thanks again for all your suggestions.
1. It has never been connected to the gas supply, so presumably the original owner agreed with most of you that a gas powered fridge on a boat is not ideal.
2. It is also not connected up for 12v either, so presumably the original intention was that it would just be used when connected to shore power.
3. I've connected up my shore power lead and switched on. After about half an hour there was plenty of heat coming from the pipework at the back of the fridge but no sign at all of any cooling of the fridge element. Same situation after an hour by which time I had used about 0.1 kW.
I guess I have some other problem with the fridge, perhaps something to do with the refrigerant. (perhaps there isn't any!).
Thanks again for all your suggestions.
Boathook
Well-Known Member
My 'combi' fridge takes a couple of hours before the element starts to get really cold. Once it is going all is fine.
Laminar Flow
Well-Known Member
Absorber type fridges, as I know them from a motorhome, are not suitable for use on a boat, regardless whether they are operated on gas or not. As used in a motorhome the fridge and the vehicle must be dead level when it is stationary for any length of time and the fridge is in operation. We had a small unidirectional spirit level atop our fridge to check. If there is any kind of list, it can cause a gas bubbles forming and becoming trapped in the absorber which will render it inoperable.
Operating on 12v, they are at least 2-3 times more power hungry as a compressor type. When we had a RV, we would only use the 12v while driving, once stationary, we would switch to gas or service (when available) and go through the whole leveling procedure.
Operating on 12v, they are at least 2-3 times more power hungry as a compressor type. When we had a RV, we would only use the 12v while driving, once stationary, we would switch to gas or service (when available) and go through the whole leveling procedure.
Graham376
Well-Known Member
Try leaving it inverted overnight and then right way up for half a day before switching on again, sometimes works.
westerlylad
Active Member
Thanks Boathook, I'll try leaving the 240v on for a few hours, although, as Laminar Flow says, if the fridge needs to be perfectly level, and I suspect mine may not be, I may have a problem with a gas bubble. Graham 376, I would have a go at your inversion suggestion, however, although I've managed to get to the back of the fridge for inspection purposes, the whole thing is solidly built into the interior of the boat. Major demolition would be required to get the unit out to invert it. I may have to think of a way to invert the whole boat!
Thanks again all.
Thanks again all.
