Calorifiers.

[theia]

I am considering installing a calorifier. My yacht is a kit built Hunter Channel 31. Hunters build instructions have the calorifier installed above the engine. I'm not too happy about this, not only fearing that water may get into the engine but also the cost of a "square" shaped tank, at about £400, as opposed to a cylinder. Any suggestions re installation and as to where to obtain a 5 - 6 gallon calorifier at a reasonable price. Restricted in size of cylinder which will have to be capable of entering a locker throgh a gap of about 550mm x 350mm.

 

[Strathglass]

The cylindrical one of about 6 gals should just about get through your hole. It sounds about the size of mine. www.asap-supplies.com sell ones of a similar size. They are copper and you can get horizontal or vertical mounting types

PM me if you want more info I have fitted/ replaced quite a few to different craft.

Iain

 

[squidge]

what is the differance between a calorifier and a domestis c/heating tank/boiler and could one be cut down to a suitable sise?

 

[brians]

Have they been reliable and performed well? The seem to be excellent value compared to the competition.

 

[Strathglass]

Yes, -with several reservations They perform very well.
I have fitted them on boats with both indirect and direct cooling, mainly for inland waterway use. They perform much better with an indirectly cooled engine as a 80 degree engine thermostat can be used as against the 60 degree one required with direct cooling in salt water. I would not want sea water going directly through the copper heating coil in the tank as would happen with direct cooling.
They must be drained fully in the winter in freezing conditions, as must all fresh water plumbing. Otherwise the water will freeze and calorifier and some pipes may burst.
I think this would occur to any calorifier, however the copper ones can be repaired with brazing.
Iain

 

[Guest]

The two are basically similar but a marine calorifier must be more strongly constructed. A domestic cylinder runs at atmospheric pressure, or at the steady mains water pressure if a "mains pressure" system, which is fairly low but I can't put a figure on it. Most small boats with pressurised water systems have a Shurflo or similar water pump, and the pump's pressure switch will be set to cut off at say 35 psi, and to cut back in again when the pressure drops to say 20 psi. Pressures vary subject to brand but it is the differential that is important. There are two points: firstly the presuure is relatively high compared to most domestic conditions; secondly there is a definite fluctuation in pressure, which will make the tank flex and fatigue.

You do not have to buy a "marine" tank, but you need to get one manufactured to adequate standards, If you speak to Gledhill Water Storage (01384 262255) and ask for a tank to 100' water gauge then they will make you a tank to suit that pressure rating, to a custom size for you and with fittings and coils located to suit you, and they will probably deliver it tomorrow: they are fearsomely efficient! I have fitted many of their tanks (probably nearly 100) and have never had one fail (although many were replacements for other manufacturer's tanks which had failed!). Make sure that you also fit a suitable pressure relief valve.