Yes. It was a few years ago, 1998, and just to be clear, we are talking about the very picturesque place with the sandy beach and very high cliffs all around, and the rivery bits flowing down to the sea, right?
It was jolly nice, though busy during high season (coach loads on beach, boats anchored). But not massively better than other Calas imho. But the problem is its location. The north side of the island is not interesting boatwise imho, so simply not worth going there. Calobra is nice, but not nice enuf to justify a long slog along the N coast to get to it. For me it served the purpose of a nice lunchstop to break up an otherwise tedious run along the N of the island, and I wouldn't make it a destination in its own right
Unspoilt. This is an over-used word in the lexicon of travel writing. But it applies especially to Cala de la Calobra, because we haven't been there, and it seems that hardly anybody else has been there either.
TCM went there once, but he was in a rush to get to somewhere else, probably in time for lunch or dinner. "I remember that there were lots of day tripper boats" says tcm "probably coming from Soller". But the wind was dodgy was he had to crack on.
The other person who has been there is jfm. "Ah yes" reports jfm. "There's high mountains, and it's very picturesque". Obviously jfm has made a special study of the area. "The river runs down to the sea". Now, this doesn't differentiate the place from many others. Because of course the whole of the north coast of majorca is picturesque with high mountains. And not one of the locations has a river which does anything different from "flowing down to the sea". There won't be any places where the river runs sort-of sideways along the side of the cliffs and then sits in the pub, for example.
No matter. In spite of our crap contributors who have proven totally flippin useless, the sea is blue, the sky is blue and the setting is perfect.
There's a beach somewhere, and that means there are coaches full of people in august which can be tiresome and intrusive for those sailors seeking peace and solitude. Always assuming that the alleged coachloads are there in the first place, and we can't be absolutely sure.
Out of the season, the place is eerily deserted. Otherwise, it wouldn't be "out of season" now would it? No. It would be a "year-round" place, packed all the time. The most likely time for it to be out of season is probably winter.
Anchoring in any bay is a sheer delight, and cala calabra is no exception. Peaceful in calm weather, a bit rough in windy weather, unless it sheltered by the land, in which case it'll still be flat, unless the winds are a bit flukey.
When anchoring in this area, take special care not to choose a spot where the water is too deep, or your anchor chain may not be long enough. Unless of course you have a really gigantically massive 4 miles of anchor chain, say, in which case an enourmous sea depth won't be much of a worry. But the area is also well known for shallow water, and up on a beach (if there is one) there'll be no water at all.
If you do plan to visit or stay - you'll need a chart of the area. Also, get a guidebook. There's an idea.
Do not believe anyone who tells you that they have discovered the perfect unspoilt cove on the north coast - at least, not if its name is Sa Calobra. This is indeed a beautiful spot, which is why tour buses pour in by the dozen every day, even in winter.
The journey to Sa Calobra is as memorable as the bay itself. A twisting road around Puig Major plunges 800m in just 12km, turning 270 degrees at one point to loop under itself (a feature known as the 'Knotted Tie') The easier approach is by boat from Port de Soller, passing genuinely isolated bays with an excellent view of Puig Major, albeit spoilt by the military installations on the summit of Mallorca's highest mountain.
Once there, walk through 200m of tunnels to reach the Torrent de Pareis ('twin streams'), which begins several kilometres up in the mountains at the confluence of the torrents of Lluc and Gorg Blau. Up to 400m high and only 30m wide, with some sections never seeing daylight, this dramatic gorge culminates in a small pebble beach where you can picnic among the crowds. In summer, when the gorge is dry, you can hike inland between the cliffs; do not attempt this in winter.
A side turn off the road to Sa Calobra leads to Cala Tuent, a small cove with a sandy beach and a 13th-century church, Ermita de Sant Llorenc. Cala Tuent is likely to be quieter than Sa Calobra; but don't believe anyone who tells you they have discovered the real unspoilt cove.
Thanks for writing the article tcm. I guess its reduced my options from "Favourite Place" or "Ports of Call" to just "places to go like all the others, with cliffs and stuff".
The NW coast of Mallorca, while being more dramatic than the other coasts, is not hugely inspiring that is true. I'm fishing for a subject for "Favourite Place". If you have a place in mind that is genuinely nice/fun/sheltered/good for boats/decent restaurant, or that you like for whatever reason, pls let me know if you'd like to write a Favourite Place on it. Mallorca-based is not important. cheers, W
Is that a general offer.. I canturn mine into a series, xos everyehere I go is better than the last time. last visit was Juan les Pins.... boy could I write some article on that trip..
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