Cabin table finish

[saltyrob]

Hi Folks,

Our cabin table has water and black mould marks so am stripped the finish off the teak faced ply prior to bleaching with oxalic acid and staining with a water based teak stain. Would be grateful for recommendations in what to use as good durable finish. The existing finish did not seem to be a varnish as removed easily. Varnish is a possibility but would like to consider other options. Boat is a 1986 Moody if that helps identify present finish.

Many thanks

Rob

 

[johnalison]

I don't know the Moody cabin but for interior use I have tried Ephanes Rubbed Effect varnish which has a pleasing semi-matt finish.

 

[VicS]

I would use a satin finish single pack polyurethane varnish. eg International Goldspar Satin

 

[Norman_E]

For a cabin table I would stain the wood to the required shade and finish with an oil based polyurethane varnish, so as to obtain a durable finish.

 

[PlankWalker]

Any good Polyurethane varnish providing there is no direct UV on it, will far outlast a conventional alkyd varnish

 

[Tranona]

Satin finish varnish such as Ronseal. Water based, quick and easy to apply, durable.

 

[KAM]

I would avoid stain it usually looks awful. If it's teak it just needs varnish. I would recommend the ronseal pu. Not the water based stuff. Mixing 50/50 matt and satin gives a pleasant flat finish which masks a lot of defects.

 

[Plum]

Satin finish varnish such as Ronseal. Water based, quick and easy to apply, durable.

+1 I used Ronseal satin finish on my Iroko cabin table 15 years ago and still great. I also used it on our restored oak dinning table at the same time, also still good.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk

 

[maby]

Satin finish varnish such as Ronseal. Water based, quick and easy to apply, durable.

We've been experimenting with that and it seems very promising.

 

[PaulRainbow]

Another vote for Ronseal. If you want a satin finish, build up with gloss first and then put a couple of coats of satin on. If you put more coats of satin on it goes kind of cloudy.

For changing the colour (i had to match some Sapelle, where some areas were faded and some not) Danish oil works well. It's available in various shades, put it on with a cotton cloth, light Scotch Brite when dry and on with the Ronseal.

 

[Kelpie]

Well timed thread, as I was about to ask about using Ronseal water based varnish myself.
I've got a tin that I've been using for some doors etc at home, perfectly happy with it, and being able to wash brushes out in water makes me far more inclined to do little bits and bobs.
Has anybody experienced any downsides to using it for internal work aboard their boat?

 

[Tranona]

No. Been using it and its predecessor formulation for over 20 years, both in boats and in the home.

 

[guyd]

I'm a great fan of waxoil products, Treatex being the best IMHO. Its applied very easily (spray, sponge, whatever you want), self leveling, food safe, and the best bit, is that any scratches are easily fixed by just whacking more on.

available in clear, matt, satin (best IMHO) etc.

lasted a year on restaurant tables so far and look new.

Admittedly haven't tried on Teak

Admittedly effing expensive.

 

[Amulet]

If you want to put hot things down on it use polyurethane - only choice. Single pot will be fine down below. No contest.

If heat protection is not a goal then pick what you fancy.

My table looks fine after ten seasons and lots of hot pots.