Bye bye Majorca, hello Croatia via Sardinia Part 2

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Filling up in Novigrad. Diesel in Croatia costs about 7.7 kuna (the local currency) per litre or the equivalent of just over €1 per litre

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Later that day we anchored in a protected anchorage near Veruda (apparently heaving during the summer) and stayed the night in Pula which has got to be the only marina with its own Roman colliseum attached

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The following day we visited Rovinj or Rovigo as it is known in Italian. Confusingly, place names and road signs are often given in Croatian and/or Italian in this area so finding your way about, especially by car, can be fraught, particularly if SWMBO is map reading. Anyway Rovinj is a delightful place and we wish we’d had more time there

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Next day it was time to fly home so it was back into Italy for us. The new boat performed excellently, easily hitting 31kts even with a dirty bottom and cruising comfortably at 25-26kts, and if the electronic read outs are to be believed, using about 10% more fuel than Infinito which I was quite happy with. Interestingly, I recorded fuel consumption data over a range of speeds and the fuel consumption, in terms of nautical miles per gallon, doesn’t increase all that much with speed so it seems that slowing down doesn’t save all that much fuel. At least that’s what I’m telling the SWMBO!

We left the boat in Novigrad again which is a small but pleasant town with a fairly swanky marina

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As a bit of a postscript, the next few weeks proved to be very frustrating. I asked Menn Yachts to quote me for a long list of maintenance jobs that needed doing on Sumianda for the new season, including fitment of the holding tank which was supposed to be at cost. It took them several weeks to get back to me and when they finally did, the prices were so high that I felt I couldn’t accept them. The ‘at cost’ price of the holding tank system turned out to be €6500. Croatian VAT at 23% on top didn’t help either. After further delay and thanks to the advice of Metabarca of this forum, I ended up moving Sumianda back into Italy to a place called Monfalcone near Trieste to Marina Hannibal where I was advised I would get good service at a fair price. This actually was quite convenient for me as I travel regularly to this area on business. Due to a mix up with my brother who was supposed to be crewing with me, I ended moving the boat on my own. In my ignorance, apparently I should have cleared customs at the harbourmaster’s office on leaving Novigrad (Croatia is outside the EU) and cleared customs on arrival in Italy (inside the EU) but I didn’t know any better and, in any case, no gunboats bothered me as I creamed across the Gulf of Trieste. I always think that flying the red duster confers special diplomatic status!
The people at Hannibal proved to be helpful and diligent although not exactly cheap either but they managed to finish all of the tasks in time for the boat to be ready to move south again, this time to Split, back in Croatia, where I intended to keep the boat for the summer.
Overall, I’m very pleased with my Ferretti 53, despite the difficulties with Menn Yachts. It has proved to offer the extra space we wanted and I’m also well chuffed with the performance and seakeeping which is everything I’d hoped for. We’ve just completed our summer cruise in the Split area but that’s going to be the subject of another post when I get round to it.
 
" including fitment of the holding tank which was supposed to be at cost. It took them several weeks to get back to me and when they finally did, the prices were so high that I felt I couldn’t accept them. The ‘at cost’ price of the holding tank system turned out to be €6500. Croatian VAT at 23% on top didn’t help either. [/QUOTE]



Look fabulous and a great place to cruise. Out of interest, was the 6.5k for a complete virgin install or replacement of the exisitng holding tank/pumps etc?
 
Nice report, thanks for sharing it with us.
Brings back nice memories, too. I could find on the map the exact coordinates of each of the points from where you took those pics... :)
Glad also to hear that you're happy with your new toy, at the end!

A few comments/suggestions, if I may:
- for refuelling, upon leaving Italy for any non-EU Country you're entitled to tax free fuel (no need to have a charter registered boat). But only at authorised fuel stations. This is the one I used to buy fuel from, at roughly 2/3 of the normal price. Which also nowadays should mean a fair bit LESS than 1€.
- Rovinj is actually Rovigno in Italian. Sorry if it sounds as a pedantry, but also Rovigo exists, and it's a small Italian town SW of Venice.
- when in Novigrad, don't miss Konoba Cok. If Sergio Jugovac is still in charge, you can trust his suggestions and eat some fish properly prepared, which is more than can be said for most Croatian restaurants. Milan restaurant in Pula used to be the only other one worth a try, along the whole Istrian coast.
- did you have time to see some of the many islands on your way back to Split? Some of them are very nice and sheltered, perfect for overnighting at anchor. Apropos, did you clear customs again upon re-entering Croatia? When you forget to get the "exit" stamp, it's better not to get the "entrance" stamp the next time you're there, because (as I was told) sometimes they check the consistence of these registrations, and obviously two entrances with no exit in between are hard to explain... Never heard of such controls in Italy, otoh.
 
Nice report, thanks for sharing it with us.
Brings back nice memories, too. I could find on the map the exact coordinates of each of the points from where you took those pics... :)
Glad also to hear that you're happy with your new toy, at the end!

A few comments/suggestions, if I may:
- for refuelling, upon leaving Italy for any non-EU Country you're entitled to tax free fuel (no need to have a charter registered boat). But only at authorised fuel stations. This is the one I used to buy fuel from, at roughly 2/3 of the normal price. Which also nowadays should mean a fair bit LESS than 1€.
- Rovinj is actually Rovigno in Italian. Sorry if it sounds as a pedantry, but also Rovigo exists, and it's a small Italian town SW of Venice.
- when in Novigrad, don't miss Konoba Cok. If Sergio Jugovac is still in charge, you can trust his suggestions and eat some fish properly prepared, which is more than can be said for most Croatian restaurants. Milan restaurant in Pula used to be the only other one worth a try, along the whole Istrian coast.
- did you have time to see some of the many islands on your way back to Split? Some of them are very nice and sheltered, perfect for overnighting at anchor. Apropos, did you clear customs again upon re-entering Croatia? When you forget to get the "exit" stamp, it's better not to get the "entrance" stamp the next time you're there, because (as I was told) sometimes they check the consistence of these registrations, and obviously two entrances with no exit in between are hard to explain... Never heard of such controls in Italy, otoh.

Thanks MpM. Actually I think we've left Novigrad for good. My experience with Menn Yachts was such that I wont be using them for maintenance any more. I'm ashamed to admit that I got a delivery skipper to take the boat from Monfalcone to Split; I meant to do it myself but an important order came up in my business which meant I had to stay in the UK. Yes the delivery skipper did check in with Customs on entry into Croatia. I did mention to the skipper about tax free fuel in Italy and he said that it was nearly the same price as tax paid fuel in Croatia so it wasn't worth using it?
I will make time to explore the islands that we missed out when moving the boat to Split; its just a case of when!
 
I am a bit surprised at the critic to Menn Yachts as usually they are quite well regarded, altough the 2008 economic recession did make many good companies act strange. I think they did not make enough bucks from your boat considering this was a part exchange and Ventura was involved in it, this might be just the case. What where the costs at Monfalcone where they just the same....
Duty free (commercial) fuel for fisherman in Scoglitti was 75 cents of a EURO per litre, against 1.32 in Scolgitti, and 1.36 in Ragusa.
 
I am a bit surprised at the critic to Menn Yachts as usually they are quite well regarded, altough the 2008 economic recession did make many good companies act strange. I think they did not make enough bucks from your boat considering this was a part exchange and Ventura was involved in it, this might be just the case. What where the costs at Monfalcone where they just the same....
Duty free (commercial) fuel for fisherman in Scoglitti was 75 cents of a EURO per litre, against 1.32 in Scolgitti, and 1.36 in Ragusa.

I can only speak as I find. To me it doesnt matter how much or how little Menn made out of me; as it happens, they sold my old F46 on very quickly so they've made money on both sales. I'm a new customer during times when it's quite difficult to find them and I felt they didn't look after me either in an efficient or friendly manner.
The people at Hannibal Marina in Monfalcone were the opposite. They were very courteous and did every job I asked them to (except for 1) as well as I could have hoped although in the end they weren't that much cheaper than Menn in Novigrad but I felt better about giving them my money.
The delivery skipper told me that duty free fuel in Italy was a bit less than €1 per litre and therefore there wasn't any great saving over buying the fuel in Croatia. This was another thing that Menn tried to rip me off over. I used their delivery skipper because he knew the boat already. The first thing Menn did was over estimate the distance from Monfalcone to Split by approx 200% so they asked me for money for twice the amount of fuel that they actually needed. It wasnt until I measured the distance myself that I found out about their error. Then they told me that in order to fit the delivery into their schedule, I would have to pay for the skipper and crew's flights to Italy for another delivery job ie several hundred €. I found out that they actually returned to Novigrad by coach at a cost of a few €. And always its money up front with them, however big or small the job
 
Yes the delivery skipper did check in with Customs on entry into Croatia.
Actually what I tried to suggest is that it would have been better if he didn't, because on paper the boat actually never left Croatia.
Now what you have is a boat registered as entered in Croatia on dd/mm/2010, followed by another entrance on a following date, whilst you should have had an exit between them. That's the sort of inconsistencies which - as I was told - are occasionally controlled.
And when they spot that, there's an extra matriculation tax to be paid!!!...
















... just joking, sorry I couldn't resist! :D
'Dunno if anything can actually happen, but based on my Croatian experiences I guess that as long as you've paid your entrance permit, they wont bother about anything else... :)
 
... just joking, sorry I couldn't resist! :D
'Dunno if anything can actually happen, but based on my Croatian experiences I guess that as long as you've paid your entrance permit, they wont bother about anything else... :)

The skipper checked into Croatia at Novigrad and he knows the harbourmaster there so there wasnt a problem. As you say officially according to the paperwork I'd never left Croatia. As long as the paperwork ties up and they have your money, they dont care. I must admit though that this Croatian paperwork business is a PITA especially having to visit the harbourmaster's office (which is often nowhere near the marina) to update the crew list with the names of any new guests. And you have to start a new crew list every year
 
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