Buying a Seagull

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Cliveshep said:
That clunker brought my boat home from the middle of the Solent when my expensive inboard/outdrive failed and I was left adrift. Say what you like about Seagulls, they are crudely built engineering-wise but that is where all modern outboards fail.
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Can I suggest "simply" built instead of "crudely" built? Making something as simple as a Seagull generally requires a lot of thought and design skill...
 
Fire99 said:
What I don't get is why you need professional servicing of a small 2-stroke outboard?
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It seemed like a good idea at the time. I was given the outboard, almost new, with about 4 hrs running time logged and I thought I'd try to keep it good.

I love the little old Seagulls but the complexity argument doesn't really stand against a small Japanese 2-Stroke.
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I have a complete set of Yamaha service manuals on CD-rom beside me, and compared to the Seagull the 4 really is pretty complicated. I write, incidentally, as one who does all his own servicing and hyrdraulic repairs on his Citroen DS - trust me, I know complicated!
 
Just a note on shaft length for Seagulls: my understanding was that short shaft was 15 inch, long shaaft 20" and extralong was 25", for 'normal' motors. However, I happened to seek further details of one from the seller, who tells me it is 22"???
 
orbister said:
It seemed like a good idea at the time. I was given the outboard, almost new, with about 4 hrs running time logged and I thought I'd try to keep it good.


I have a complete set of Yamaha service manuals on CD-rom beside me, and compared to the Seagull the 4 really is pretty complicated. I write, incidentally, as one who does all his own servicing and hyrdraulic repairs on his Citroen DS - trust me, I know complicated!
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Well hats off for the DS Servicing.. Definitely a classic.

But come on. You can service a Citreon DS, but pay out for a small 2-stroke outboard to be serviced? A Curious choice. :)

Well I can't comment on who can write the most detailed service manual and i'm not for one minute saying any outboard is as 'simple as a Seagull but honestly, using the one I own and work on, There is definitely no significant complexity to a 2000 era Jap 2.5.
 
I happened to seek further details of one from the seller, who tells me it is 22"???
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For modern engines the "shaft lengths" are normally quoted as 15" 20" and 25" as you say.

However looking back at some of the old Seagull advertising literature I see they state that the standard shaft models are suitable for a maximum freeboard of 16" and the longshaft models for 22" (except the Featherweight which is only suitable for 14")

As far as I can see they did not refer to "shaft length" in the way that current manufacturers do.

The above dimensions appear to be the distance from the transom top to the top of the water pump housing ... at least that's what corresponds to 16" on my 40+

Your seller is not wrong in describing a longshaft model as 22" but it is the maximum freeboard for which the engine is suitable.
 
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Thanks! So I'd be looking for a 16" standard length to be equivalent to a 'short shaft' modern motor, unless I could get away with a Featherweight at 14"
 
Thanks! So I'd be looking for a 16" standard length
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Yes if a standard/short shaft model is correct for your boat.

Depth adjusting collars (to fit the smaller engine sizes) are I think still available if required (I use one if I put my 40+ on my little tender in place of its usual Featherweight) although a hose clip round the drive shaft tube will do the trick.

Facts and figures on all the models on THIS WEBSITE
 
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Fire99 said:
Well hats off for the DS Servicing.. Definitely a classic.

But come on. You can service a Citreon DS, but pay out for a small 2-stroke outboard to be serviced? A Curious choice. :)
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They have different sorts of complexity. The DS has a fiendishly large number of relatively simple pieces, and the Yamaha - like modern cars - uses fewer but more complicated and less repairable sub-units.

If I were to get another Yamaha I would probably service it myself now - not least because the money I spent on the professionals didn't exactly make the last one immortal!
 
VicS said:
Yes if a standard/short shaft model is correct for your boat.

Depth adjusting collars (to fit the smaller engine sizes) are I think still available if required (I use one if I put my 40+ on my little tender in place of its usual Featherweight) although a hose clip round the drive shaft tube will do the trick.

From memory it's very easy to shorten the drive shaft length on any Seagull. Main tool required is a hacksaw. To lengthen though you have to go to a local metals supplier for two bits of tubing and one square section piece, which increases the time somewhat. The 40+ I had was several times altered, from sailing dinghy (short shaft when bought new) to small sailing cruiser, medium long-shaft, to yet another small sailing cruiser with a higher transom (extra-long), and finally back to very short for an inflatable. A 40+ will push a ton of boat at nearly 4 knots in calmish water, a Century will do the same in a fair bit of wind.
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Hello, OP here.

I've read your thoughts and have now come to a decision: I've found a nearly new but secondhand 2-stroke 3.3hp Mariner for a reasonable price from a reputable supplier. Best combination of old and new I feel - not much cheaper than a 4-stroke 2.5hp but lighter and more powerful.

If I need another outboard then it'll almost certainly be a Seagull, just to find out for myself what they're like but not as a primary auxillary where I shall be using it.

Thanks for your thoughts!
 
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Vid said:
Hello, OP here.

I've read your thoughts and have now come to a decision: I've found a 3.3hp Mariner 2-stroke, nearly new, for a reasonable price from a reputable supplier.
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For allround useability, I for one think you've made a good choice. I have the 2.5 version and it's easy as pie to look after and is 100% clean when transported at all angles in the car.
 
Hello, OP here
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Probably a sensible choice (But I hope you have not changed your post again !!)

On cost my second hand Seagulls were good buys as I will still get more now than I paid for them 30 years ago. They are heavy compared with more modern two strokes but I was rather surprised to discover that all the current 4 strokes, except the Honda 2.3 are heavier (some by quite a bit) than my Featherweight. At least in 30 years I have not had to frig about changing pump impellers or renewing gear box seals as I have to regularly with a larger Evinrude.

Never had the recoil starter fail as I did on the Evinrude's predecessor, nor the ignition power pack fail as it did on the Evinrude.

Mucky hands regularly though and some oily newspaper to throw out from the car boot now and then.
 
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